Jag IFS control arm
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Jag IFS control arm
I am trying to get the lower control arm off the jag IFS can't seem to make it move any help would be great. Took nut off but other side doesn't move.
I have a program on the jag but can"t open.Thanks George
I have a program on the jag but can"t open.Thanks George
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,337
Likes: 165
From: Harpswell Maine
George,
The lower control arm pivot shaft (I believe that it has a different name that does not come to me right now) likes to corrode in place. I got one of my 2 out but and then managed with difficulty to burn/dig out the rubber bushings on the frozen side and then lube and force in new rubber bushings on that side (as I remember!). It is the primary reason to locate a not rusted Jag IRS if at all possible. I used plenty of rust buster and even thought about how to get the stripped down crossmember (a big and awkward piece) into my press. The crossmember and the pivot shaft do like to become one. The easiest way is to forgo lower bushing replacement.
The lower control arm pivot shaft (I believe that it has a different name that does not come to me right now) likes to corrode in place. I got one of my 2 out but and then managed with difficulty to burn/dig out the rubber bushings on the frozen side and then lube and force in new rubber bushings on that side (as I remember!). It is the primary reason to locate a not rusted Jag IRS if at all possible. I used plenty of rust buster and even thought about how to get the stripped down crossmember (a big and awkward piece) into my press. The crossmember and the pivot shaft do like to become one. The easiest way is to forgo lower bushing replacement.
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George,
The lower control arm pivot shaft (I believe that it has a different name that does not come to me right now) likes to corrode in place. I got one of my 2 out but and then managed with difficulty to burn/dig out the rubber bushings on the frozen side and then lube and force in new rubber bushings on that side (as I remember!). It is the primary reason to locate a not rusted Jag IRS if at all possible. I used plenty of rust buster and even thought about how to get the stripped down crossmember (a big and awkward piece) into my press. The crossmember and the pivot shaft do like to become one. The easiest way is to forgo lower bushing replacement.
The lower control arm pivot shaft (I believe that it has a different name that does not come to me right now) likes to corrode in place. I got one of my 2 out but and then managed with difficulty to burn/dig out the rubber bushings on the frozen side and then lube and force in new rubber bushings on that side (as I remember!). It is the primary reason to locate a not rusted Jag IRS if at all possible. I used plenty of rust buster and even thought about how to get the stripped down crossmember (a big and awkward piece) into my press. The crossmember and the pivot shaft do like to become one. The easiest way is to forgo lower bushing replacement.
Thanks George
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,337
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From: Harpswell Maine
George,
The shaft/bushing can definately be stubborn. I would suggest a serious evaluation of if the bushings really need replacement. Once you start digging at it/damaging it you become committed ( I did and I did!). If I had it to do again, I would think harder about committing to replacement. There are those in the Jag community that give up on the crossmember if it can't be disassembled.
The shaft/bushing can definately be stubborn. I would suggest a serious evaluation of if the bushings really need replacement. Once you start digging at it/damaging it you become committed ( I did and I did!). If I had it to do again, I would think harder about committing to replacement. There are those in the Jag community that give up on the crossmember if it can't be disassembled.
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Hey Bill I talked to John up at Johns Cars in Dallas, of course when I told him that I took off the flat faced nut,he said I shouldn't of . He also told me to use some more go go juice and use a BFH. He also said to do a little notch on the bottom and heat.So Iam at the point of no return the square end ,if I can get the nut back on which the threads at the end started to unravel will have to spot weld,or get new rods.Those babies are coming out
I just hope when I use the plasma cutter I dont have a fit and cut the whole think into small pieces. LOL
Nothing like a little challenge to make for interesting conversation. George
I just hope when I use the plasma cutter I dont have a fit and cut the whole think into small pieces. LOL
Nothing like a little challenge to make for interesting conversation. George
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,337
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From: Harpswell Maine
George, Keep us informed of how it goes. I suspect it has a lot to do with how rusted the shaft is into the crossmember. I am in New England, John is in Texas. We just might have a bit more stubborn rust here in New England. I did not see where you are in your profile.
I spoke to John 3 or 4 years ago when I was trying different exhaust manifolds for the SBC with the Jag. At that time he was getting the SBC in a Jag to work with staight dump down rams horns. I suspect that the sbc sits a bit further back in the Jag than I could set up the SBC in Willard. I did not want to modify the firewall. I ended up with the angled back rams horn.
Good luck with the plasma torch!
I spoke to John 3 or 4 years ago when I was trying different exhaust manifolds for the SBC with the Jag. At that time he was getting the SBC in a Jag to work with staight dump down rams horns. I suspect that the sbc sits a bit further back in the Jag than I could set up the SBC in Willard. I did not want to modify the firewall. I ended up with the angled back rams horn.
Good luck with the plasma torch!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,511
Likes: 1
From: peyton, colorado
Like willard said, it's not called a control arm shaft, but I don't remember what they call it. I had to replace one of mine as I damaged it during removal. One side came out easily, the other side put up a fight. It's the only bolt I've ever seen that disassembled. I drilled a couple of holes in the bottom of the crossmember and used a torch through the holes to heat the tube it runs through. Even then, it was a bear. I finally got it to move about 1/8", using a BFH, then beat it out 1/8" at a time.
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Could the name be lower wishbone pivots shafts?? I still think they are NIM Rod Shafts.Yall come to texas and give a poor boy a hand.
George
George
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: peyton, colorado
George, I'm thinking they were called lower fulcrum pivot shafts, or some such thing. They weren't gudgeon pins, boots, bonnets, spanners or crumpets, of that I'm sure. If you get stuck, let me know and I'll try to find where I bought mine. -Rusty
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,511
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From: peyton, colorado
George, I googled jaguar xj6 parts, tried Moss Motors and Jagbits com. Jagbits lists a lower wishbone fulcrum shaft assembly, part # c30722-set for 54.01. Moss Motors lists a #c30722, shaft, fulcrum lower. IIRC, I bought mine for about $25 three years ago from jag grave yard. Their web site is down, but they were jerks to deal with, and screwed me on some damaged parts. BTW, I found most of my rebuild parts on ebay from regular jag parts sellers. Don't remember the names, however. Bought most of the parts in kit form which was much cheaper. Lower ball joints can be updated from the multi piece xj6 part, to the later xj40, one piece joint. My kit had that upgrade as an option.
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