Good people,

In the next week, I am going to be making my first tow. I am towing one of my cars to a show and parade about 75 miles from Atlanta. I will probably rent a trailer from U-Haul that will put all four wheels of the car on the trailer. (Not the two wheel dolly). I have never done anything like this before, any suggestions or tips for success? Things such as hooking up, driving tips, securing, etc...?

 

BTW, going to be towing with a 06 F250 if that makes any diff

 

I've used a U-haul trailer a few times to tow vehicles. I've always been pleased with how their trailers perform and found towing with them was a pleasure. Some things to watch for. If the company hooks the trailer to your truck be sure to ensure it is definitely latched to your tow ball. I once failed to confirm and the trailer disconnected from my truck. Thankfully, I'd just load the car and was sitting in my yard. However, it wasn't fun getting the loaded trailer reconnected. Make sure all the trailer lights are working correctly. Plus, test the trailer brakes as soon as you take off so you'll first know they are working and second how it feels to stop. Be sure to allow additional space behind vehicles you are following since it takes a longer distance to safely stop. Allow additional space for making tight turns and be sure to use your mirrors to confirm trailer has room for the turns. When you are passing allow be sure to allow additional space for the trailer; especially when pulling back into the right lane. I'm sure you'll get the hang of it quickly. Enjoy your show. Roy

 

I don't know anything about u-hual's trailers. I imagine it'll be 14-16' trailer at least. My advice on loading the trail is. Notice how the truck sits with the empty trailer. I don't want to lower my rear anymore than I need to. Generally the closer you have the rear tires of your hauled vechile is to the trailer's tires the less weight is on the tongue. This doesn't mean this is the best spot. Check your truck. If your rear is lifted your to far back. I want my truck as level as possible. If your springs are bottomed out chances are your to far forward. Somewhere between the 2 is a perfect place. I insisted on grade 80 chains and binders. 4 each. DON'T skimp here. Chain is not chain. Most bargain tow chains is grade 43. You can pull it apart with 2 trucks fairly easy. I like 1/2 chain its just easier for me to work with but 3/8 grade is more than enough. Grade 80 is the lightest chain approved for overhead lifting. Your looking at 6k-7k work weight on a 3/8 chain. I carry 2 extra chains and binders just in case. I usually hook my chains on the back then hook and bind the front then bind the back. Check the front. When you leave pullover a couple miles and check your chains. Some times the chains will loosen up. Any time you stop check your chain.

 

You have way more than enough truck and Uhaul trailers are fairly simple to pull trailers. Just follow there instructions for securing the car to the trailer, seems like they provide wheel tie downs IIRC but in any case follow there directions.

If you've not done any towing in the past don't feel bashful about taking a pre trip spin around places your familiar with, to get use to the feel of the car and trailer and how to turn and back up your rig. I've towed for years and still do this when I get a different truck or trailer combination just to make sure everything works together.

Best of Luck and have a safe trip.

 

Uhaul trailers are quite bulletproof, but still not idiotproof like sampled above. My favorite way of securing vehicles on trailers it to put straps on wheels or lower suspension, so vehicles shocks can absorb some set movements and big stress on the strap that comes if you mount it to vehicle body.
If you have never towed bigger trailer before -make some rounds before loading. The turns have to be taken wider to avoid taking road signs and hydrants with you. Parking and backing up is another story.

 

[QUOTE=Kajtek1;10364220]My favorite way of securing vehicles on trailers it to put straps on wheels or lower suspension, so vehicles shocks can absorb some set movements and big stress on the strap that comes if you mount it to vehicle body.
[QUOTE]
Straps are nice and I like em if im going over what I'm tieing downing down. If my anchor points is from trailer to trailer. I do not suggest anchoring to wheels or suspension. Like body parts they are bolted on and moveable. I always mount to the frame. It doesn't move and is suppose to be the strongest link and solid.

 

I think this makes a big difference in your favor. Not only are you towing w/ a truck that can handle it, it looks great doing it.
Hey I've over looked the most important suggestion. Take pictures and post em. We love to see trucks in action.

 

If the trailer has a working suspension, wouldn't you want the cargo to remain still? If the vehicle suspension is allowed to move isn't there a possibility of the trailer suspension and the vehicle suspension working against each other thus causing excess bouncing and sway?

When ever I see a vehicle put on a towing company's flat bed, the chain is always tied to the vehicle frame and tightened to compress the vehicle suspension which allows very little movement of the vehicle's suspension.

I'm just asking not suggesting/recommending.

 

U-Haul car trailers are designed with front wheel straps and safety chains in the rear. They are intended for suspension tie down. I don't think they have much of a suspension of their own. I've towed a number of times with these and if you tie the vehicle down the way they tell you it will ride nicely.

Always double check the hitch. U-Haul uses a screw down **** to tighten the hitch down to the ball. It's designed to go on a 1 1/8 or 2 inch ball. If there is weight pushing forward on the trailer and the guy hooking you up doesn't know his business, he will not get the hitch tightened down all the way and it can bounce off. Have someone push hard back against the trailer and give the **** a couple good twists to make sure it's tight. Then check it again after towing a few miles. Also make sure the lights are working before you leave. If they aren't, the U-Haul guy has to fix them and make sure they are.

Most U-Haul trailers also have surge brakes. There are three safety chains. Two are standard chains that need to be loose enough to allow for a turn but tight enough to catch the trailer. Most people recommend crossing the chains under the tongue, so if it trailer does come loose, the tongue is cradled in the cross and doesn't hit the ground as easily. The third chain goes straight up the tongue and is there to activate the grab brake if the trailer comes loose. It should be short enough so that it will hit it's end and activate the brake before the safety chains catch the trailer.

Generally, U-Haul trailers are a very nice tow. I've towed a lot of them and rarely had any problems. It doesn't hurt to check the air in the tires yourself. Dad got one with low tires on the front and it made it really unstable until he fixed it.

 

We have the same point of view. I'm not going to use a trailer that doesn't have a suspension. The towed vehicle's suspension should not be used for the trailers sake. If the vehicles suspension is allowed to move then the binding materials are being loosened then being tightened.that will allow the towed vehicle to move either direction slightly enough to loosen the bindings. It doesn't matter to me what the trsiler comes w/ to bind it down. Suspensions move. That how they are designed. Their not designed to keep the vehicle from moving. That with everthing else is bolted on and has been known to break. Now sure binding down useing the suspension just might work in every case. There's more to binding it down than just keeping it on the trailer until you get to point "B". What if someone hit you or you have a blow out? You don't want a 3000lb or more chuck of steel flying around. Straps are not approved in Al. In commerical hauling of equiment. I think there is a reason for that. A strap will stretch more that chain.

 

One thing that I've not seen mentioned is to check that the ball is tight on the receiver hitch after you have towed a few miles. I've thought that the ball was good and tight, but still work loose after pulling a load for some distance. I would re-emphasize the checking mirrors when turning that you have plenty of room. I've towed bunches over the years, but still managed to dings some stuff a few years back by not paying attention.

 

Good point. That is the only point of contact between truck and trailer. Very easy to overlook as we have in this conversation. So I'm going to raise you one. Check pin if useing a removeable receiver.

 

Sounds like you are towing a show car so you might consider some mud flaps to minimize the chances of chipping the paint on the car in tow.
Make sure you fold down the driver's side fender before you load the car on the trailer or you might not be able to open the car door to get out.
Check the tire pressure on truck and trailer.
Make sure the trailer is connected to the truck when you load and unload.
If you are purchasing a ball for your receiver hitch, select a drop that allows the auto transport to sit level when towing. The tongue will usually be slightly higher than the rear when the trailer is unloaded.

It is a good idea to practice backing up before you load the car onto the trailer if you are just learning how to tow. Find a empty parking lot and practice backing the trailer into the spaces and give it your best try to place the back of the trailer at the back of the space. Here are a couple of tips:

1. When possible, choose to back up to the driver's side. This allows you to see out your driver's side window and improves visibility.
2. When in reverse, grab the bottom of the steering wheel (6 o'clock position). Then move your hand in the direction you want the trailer to go. Once you get the feel for which way to move the steering wheel to get the trailer where you want it then place your hands where ever is most comfortable.
3. There is nothing wrong with putting the truck in park and walking around the truck/trailer to make sure you aren't going to hit anything when backing up. Other people can wait so don't rush anything.
4. If you get help from someone, establish some hand signals first. There are only 5 signals that I ever use. Point left (to move the back of the trailer left), Point right to move it right, (fingers up with hand opening and closing) means keep coming, thumb and finger tips tapping together (like a sock puppet talking...) means keep coming but very slowly, and a still fist means STOP.


Have a safe trip and happy towing!

 

Exiled, good point on the pin on the removable receiver.