IST1: 1989 Ranger Solid Check Engine/Code light
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Drummonds, TN USA
IST1: 1989 Ranger Solid Check Engine/Code light
Put yourself in the drivers seat - you are sitting here looking at it.
It changed the way it ran suddenly at a stop sign.
It chugged as if it was on one (out of four) cylinders until it died about a 1/4 mile farther on.
~I towed it home.
The code readout is a solid light with a jumper from Self Test Input to pin 2 of the self test connecter.
I can see a timing belt in it but can't tell if it skipped yet.
It changed the way it ran suddenly at a stop sign.
It chugged as if it was on one (out of four) cylinders until it died about a 1/4 mile farther on.
~I towed it home.
The code readout is a solid light with a jumper from Self Test Input to pin 2 of the self test connecter.
I can see a timing belt in it but can't tell if it skipped yet.
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From: SW Va
Not sure what the solid CEL light means, are you certain you have the jumper hooked up right & are doing the sequence right?????
Any strange mechanical engine noises when it did this????
I believe your year/model has two fuel pumps, a low pressure feed in the tank, a high pressure one on the frame rail under the cab for the fuel injectors, so how is fuel pressure & delivery rate over time???
If no noises & the engine isn't locked up, will it try to run on starter fluid???? If it will, look to a fuel delivery problem. If it won't try to fire, look to a spark problem.
Some thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.
Any strange mechanical engine noises when it did this????
I believe your year/model has two fuel pumps, a low pressure feed in the tank, a high pressure one on the frame rail under the cab for the fuel injectors, so how is fuel pressure & delivery rate over time???
If no noises & the engine isn't locked up, will it try to run on starter fluid???? If it will, look to a fuel delivery problem. If it won't try to fire, look to a spark problem.
Some thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Drummonds, TN USA
I soldered together a jumper just for it, and followed the book (if you can call Haynes "The Book") as far as going from the single IST connecter to pin 2 on the bigger connector.
Can parts stores test an EEC off of the vehicle?
I'd like to solve the code issue before I begin pulling belts off. The timing belt IS a prime suspect, as is the convertor being clogged, but those codes are basic to the whole system.
One thing I can do is clear the computer by disconnecting the battery negative.
Can parts stores test an EEC off of the vehicle?
I'd like to solve the code issue before I begin pulling belts off. The timing belt IS a prime suspect, as is the convertor being clogged, but those codes are basic to the whole system.
One thing I can do is clear the computer by disconnecting the battery negative.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Drummonds, TN USA
(I'm turning over what I know now in my mind
)
The reason I waited so long is because I waited for payday to drop five gallons of gas into it and see what it did. It would suck if I ran it out of gas and that was all it was...
RESULT: It popped and ran like it was on only one cylinder.
Okay - so much for the performance test. As sudden as the way it changed happened it has to be a definite problem of some kind.
* BATTERY is good, and can be charged if needed
What could break or quit while rolling up to a stop sign on a 20 degree uphill? I think only a major timing change would do this, plug failure, or a hole rotted in a fuel line could (COULD! But I've seen those lines and they last longer than thirty years on average)
Of 'course, a bad electrical connection can happen ANY time...
See now - my general trend in thought here is that (Something that can wear out) has worn out.
Rubber, plastic, lubricated parts, etc.
The roll-out on that hill wasn't enough for that skinny fuel tank to feed different... think I PROVED it by pouring five more gallons in on a level place. But why did it even run? And run like that?
The "Stuff that Wears Out" category gets smaller every year.
I think timing belt because it's been at least five years. I only do around 1K mile a year, but that's an old belt under tension.
But electrical stuff goes bad the same way, NO WARNING
)
The reason I waited so long is because I waited for payday to drop five gallons of gas into it and see what it did. It would suck if I ran it out of gas and that was all it was...
RESULT: It popped and ran like it was on only one cylinder.
Okay - so much for the performance test. As sudden as the way it changed happened it has to be a definite problem of some kind.
* BATTERY is good, and can be charged if needed
What could break or quit while rolling up to a stop sign on a 20 degree uphill? I think only a major timing change would do this, plug failure, or a hole rotted in a fuel line could (COULD! But I've seen those lines and they last longer than thirty years on average)
Of 'course, a bad electrical connection can happen ANY time...
See now - my general trend in thought here is that (Something that can wear out) has worn out.
Rubber, plastic, lubricated parts, etc.
The roll-out on that hill wasn't enough for that skinny fuel tank to feed different... think I PROVED it by pouring five more gallons in on a level place. But why did it even run? And run like that?
The "Stuff that Wears Out" category gets smaller every year.
I think timing belt because it's been at least five years. I only do around 1K mile a year, but that's an old belt under tension.
But electrical stuff goes bad the same way, NO WARNING
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Drummonds, TN USA
More info: Found and bled the valve on the fuel rail - runs clear.
Timing belt is in spec!!! It really did line up BINGO with a few more tries.
(I was bumping it into place using 1st gear)
I'm going to go after the cat convertor tomorrow!
Whiskey/Tango/Hotel... I have a spare one for a V6, don't I?
Aah - you guys don't know about my other truck
Timing belt is in spec!!! It really did line up BINGO with a few more tries.
(I was bumping it into place using 1st gear)
I'm going to go after the cat convertor tomorrow!
Whiskey/Tango/Hotel... I have a spare one for a V6, don't I?
Aah - you guys don't know about my other truck
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: SW Va
Check/pull the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator, to see if it's ok & tight on it's fitting & to see if it's wet inside with fuel. If it's wet inside, the fuel pressure regulators diaphragm is bad.
If thats ok, hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail schrader valve & check fuel pressure & fuel pump delivery rate, (volume over time).
If thats ok, hook up a vacuum gauge to it & see what that tells you about the engine mechanicals.
If thats ok, use an inductive timing light to quickly & safely check for spark.
If thats ok, hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail schrader valve & check fuel pressure & fuel pump delivery rate, (volume over time).
If thats ok, hook up a vacuum gauge to it & see what that tells you about the engine mechanicals.
If thats ok, use an inductive timing light to quickly & safely check for spark.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Drummonds, TN USA
I wish I even had a spare fuel pressure guage, but I'm out of 'em. I really need to have one in the dash cluster! I may be able to borrow one but not having a shop guage is unsat. I'll add it to the snapon list...
PRESSURE REGULATOR has been added to the list. DITTO vacuum guage.
Light I've got. I was planning that too - what about this?
This truck always did act as if it had a mighty lot of back-pressure. If the cat collapsed internally or got plugged the only way to know is drop it, right?
I wonder if I can pull the EEC/MCU relay or fuse, unscrew the front EGO (OX Sensor), and get an idea of blockage by turning the engine with the starter?
Come to think of it, I wonder if I have a compression guage adapter that is the same size as the OX-Sensor threads? Wouldn't that be cool!
PRESSURE REGULATOR has been added to the list. DITTO vacuum guage.
Light I've got. I was planning that too - what about this?
This truck always did act as if it had a mighty lot of back-pressure. If the cat collapsed internally or got plugged the only way to know is drop it, right?
I wonder if I can pull the EEC/MCU relay or fuse, unscrew the front EGO (OX Sensor), and get an idea of blockage by turning the engine with the starter?
Come to think of it, I wonder if I have a compression guage adapter that is the same size as the OX-Sensor threads? Wouldn't that be cool!
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: SW Va
Some autoparts stores have a fuel pressure gauge test kit in their Loan-A-Tool program, for a refundable deposit.
If funds are tight, Harbor Freight has one for about $20, if you wrap it's hose connections with plumbers PTFE ribbon dope, they won't leak & it'll work ok.
Good idea to try removing the O2 sensor as a test to relieve exhaust back pressure, I had forgotten to suggest that.
Review the vacuum gauge tutorial moving graphics illustrations, to see what the meter movement for a clogged exhaust test, looks like. Other vacuum gauge test illustrations there too!!! http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm
If funds are tight, Harbor Freight has one for about $20, if you wrap it's hose connections with plumbers PTFE ribbon dope, they won't leak & it'll work ok.
Good idea to try removing the O2 sensor as a test to relieve exhaust back pressure, I had forgotten to suggest that.
Review the vacuum gauge tutorial moving graphics illustrations, to see what the meter movement for a clogged exhaust test, looks like. Other vacuum gauge test illustrations there too!!! http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 29,941
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From: Drummonds, TN USA
First of all, I'd like to thank you for following along with this. I've gotten into trouble on the Ranger forum here before when personalities collided... 
Even though I'm one of the old timers here!
That may be part of it - old guy used to points and condensers in the modern world. But I did Electronics for a career in naval aviation!
I actually LIKE the idea of computers in trucks. As long as the inputs are kept to a minimum
By the way - I also patched a split off vac line between the EGR valve and it's controller.
* I really don't like the vacuum tubing they used
There have been times I wished I could run a cannon manifold, headers, dual webers, and a freakin' magneto on this truck....
(Pardon me. That's how I vent...)
Even though I'm one of the old timers here!
That may be part of it - old guy used to points and condensers in the modern world. But I did Electronics for a career in naval aviation!
I actually LIKE the idea of computers in trucks. As long as the inputs are kept to a minimum
By the way - I also patched a split off vac line between the EGR valve and it's controller.
* I really don't like the vacuum tubing they used
There have been times I wished I could run a cannon manifold, headers, dual webers, and a freakin' magneto on this truck....
(Pardon me. That's how I vent...)
Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 29,941
Likes: 46
From: Drummonds, TN USA
This is an important but seperate note to all of this
I have a neighbor who advised another neighbor to just cut the converter OUT of an SUV of another brand. It never ran right after that and gobbles fuel. You can see unburnt residue all around the exhaust tip...
The EGO (Exhaust Gas Oxygen) sensors have to be in the circuit if the EEC is running in open loop (highway driving) (!)
This "OTHER BRAND" SUV interpretted the lack of input as a lean burn condition.
The front and back O2 sensors have to be at least mounted on a pipe between the headers and mufflers to read anything...
Simple to do. Drill holes and weld on nuts with the right thread as bosses
At the very least they need to still be connected. DON'T JUST DYKE AND STRIP!
I have a neighbor who advised another neighbor to just cut the converter OUT of an SUV of another brand. It never ran right after that and gobbles fuel. You can see unburnt residue all around the exhaust tip...
The EGO (Exhaust Gas Oxygen) sensors have to be in the circuit if the EEC is running in open loop (highway driving) (!)
This "OTHER BRAND" SUV interpretted the lack of input as a lean burn condition.
The front and back O2 sensors have to be at least mounted on a pipe between the headers and mufflers to read anything...
Simple to do. Drill holes and weld on nuts with the right thread as bosses
At the very least they need to still be connected. DON'T JUST DYKE AND STRIP!
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
SO, you were a twigit in a former life!!!! An old ex AE here!!!! lol Yup, points, condensor, coil & a dizzy!!!!
OR a 2 banks of 9 each jugs, R-3350-26WC, 3350 cid & 3600 hp normally aspirated, with dual mag ignition & two Champion spark plugs to each cyl, BUT with a dual stage super charger on high blower & alcohol water injection, it'll make 4400 combat hp, from those 3350 cid!!!! Ahhhh what a beast it was, turning that 900 lb, 13.5 foot dia variable pitch Hamilton Standard 4 blade fan, to keep the pilot cool!!!! lol
Yup the AD Skyraider/Spad it was called in later years, was a Mack truck with wings!!!! At 3600 rpm it's intake manafold vacuum was typically about 56-57 inches, now Thats some serious vacuum!!!!!
OR a 2 banks of 9 each jugs, R-3350-26WC, 3350 cid & 3600 hp normally aspirated, with dual mag ignition & two Champion spark plugs to each cyl, BUT with a dual stage super charger on high blower & alcohol water injection, it'll make 4400 combat hp, from those 3350 cid!!!! Ahhhh what a beast it was, turning that 900 lb, 13.5 foot dia variable pitch Hamilton Standard 4 blade fan, to keep the pilot cool!!!! lol
Yup the AD Skyraider/Spad it was called in later years, was a Mack truck with wings!!!! At 3600 rpm it's intake manafold vacuum was typically about 56-57 inches, now Thats some serious vacuum!!!!!
Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 29,941
Likes: 46
From: Drummonds, TN USA
HAMILTON FOOKIN STANDARD was the same brand on the aluminum prop of my Poppa's Taylorcraft.
And they built the props for god knows what all....
The last bay on most nuke carriers has crates of blades for helos, and stored CV props for COD's and E2's!
I SALUTE YOU ACROSS THE NET SIR!
Civvy life is kinda boring, innit?
And they built the props for god knows what all....
The last bay on most nuke carriers has crates of blades for helos, and stored CV props for COD's and E2's!
I SALUTE YOU ACROSS THE NET SIR!
Civvy life is kinda boring, innit?
Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 29,941
Likes: 46
From: Drummonds, TN USA
I finally caved and began pulling the exhaust tonight based on a need to modify it anyway.
80% came out in 5 minutes once it was on jackstands. ~ Not a lot left of the old muffler.
I didn't see anything that would cause backpressure though - so now I'm hacking away with a tailpipe cutter (in a real tight spot, naturally) because the truck has a fully welded system. The donor truck parts are already detached...
NOTES:
*The CAT on this truck has NO SENSORS mounted to it. The OXY sensor is at the bottom flange of the stock header.
* Overall length of the cat is about ten or twelve inches.
* I see no other sensors further along the pipe. Hacking the convertor out should change little, if it comes to that
9JULY update - sorry gang. I dunno what that pipe is made out of but it's taking a bit more than an hour, and I got rained out.
Should be dry today - 'nuffs enough
80% came out in 5 minutes once it was on jackstands. ~ Not a lot left of the old muffler.
I didn't see anything that would cause backpressure though - so now I'm hacking away with a tailpipe cutter (in a real tight spot, naturally) because the truck has a fully welded system. The donor truck parts are already detached...
NOTES:
*The CAT on this truck has NO SENSORS mounted to it. The OXY sensor is at the bottom flange of the stock header.
* Overall length of the cat is about ten or twelve inches.
* I see no other sensors further along the pipe. Hacking the convertor out should change little, if it comes to that
9JULY update - sorry gang. I dunno what that pipe is made out of but it's taking a bit more than an hour, and I got rained out.
Should be dry today - 'nuffs enough