.tried a pic did'nt work ...
Only URL pics??
Could'nt find attachment manager
OK got it!

 

well I got some conflicting info on this, so I wanna make sure...
(I thought a pick would help)
If I loosened the big clamp(white arrow) and bolts under column in cab, would this allow the column to move in or out, independent of the shaft and steering wheel?
The little clamp on the shaft(yellow arrow) only seems to retain a bearing or dust cap inside the housing.
Thanks guys

 

well kindove you would have to move the clamp at the yellow arrow.. but the way i took my steering box in and out was loosen the clamp with the yellow arrow and yank on the steering wheel.. then when i put it back on i had someone hold the steering wheel down and i tapped the clamp back into place and tightened it up... simple as that

 

Thanks 73hb
well thats kinda what we did when we put the coupling in but it would'nt return to original position thus the gap between the steering wheel and column.
appreciate it!

EDIT
Would this be totally wrong...?
loosen small clamp, push steering wheel towards column?
Instead of column towards wheel?

 

This link has an exploded view of the column. It might help. I seem to recall haing his trouble on a 66 F100, and that the problem was the retainer (I think it's #26 on here) had slipped down on the shaft, and the solution was to have the wheel pressed down to close that gap, and then push that retainer up and clamp it there. I don't recall all the details, but something along those lines. I think that what happened with mine, and perhaps with yours, is that as the rag joint wore out, there was more upward pressure on the shaft, toward the cab, and this eventually broke the shaft out opf that retainer. Anyway, hope this helps some.

LMC Truck Parts - Page 48

 

Thanks JHJ, appreciate that exploded view link!
I love these forums for all the experience and options for a solution
Here she is by the way,
bless her rusty heart

 

I seem to recall that the other thing that happens here is that, as the shaft rides up because of the sloppy rag joint, the ring held by that retainer presses and rubs harder against the surface where the shaft goes through the firewall, and this eventally wrecks the ring.

 

Could it be that it's past simple adjustment then?
That rag joint was really bad.
The flange was turning free of the rubber.
I might try some gentle persuation with some of the ideas I've gathered here, but I might just not worry about the gap.
Surely it would'nt mean losing my steering all of a sudden?
Thanks guys

 

man I hate to kept beating this, but I'm losing sleep!
Have not tried anything yet waiting for help at the wheel.
I have read so many different ways of doing this online and by friends, I'm confused and don't want to brake anything or compromise my safety.

QUESTION...Is the shaft that starts at the rag joint flange and goes to the steering wheel ALL one piece? and/or what is the intermediate shaft?

In other words does the column need to go toward the wheel or does the shaft need to go toward the gearbox?
Sorry guys, just want to be sure

 

bump.......

 

either way could work which ever one u want to do... when i put my new steering box in i had to make a custon temp shaft and i cut it the wrong length(didnt measure right) so i had to move the collum.. but i also have a manual so i dont know how the auto linkage will line up moving the collum... i would just move the little clap i told you about that is how ford secured it down from the factory its not going to wear the plastic washer

 

73hb, I really appreciate your help man!

 

no problem.. haha reading these forums and helping people give me something to do everyday.. i dont get to work on my truck till the weekends

 

Yes, it's one piece. And re your question, "does the column need to go toward the wheel or does the shaft need to go toward the gearbox?": the shaft, steering wheel and all, needs to go toward the gearbox. The rag joint is not rigid, but held together with those rubber disks. Because of the way the disks are bent, the joint has a tendency to want to open up, and spread the metal yokes and therfore the two sections of the shaft further apart. Because your gear box is fixed to the chassis, it is the upper (longer) portion of the shaft that moves, pushing upward toward the firewall. The retainer ring on the firewall is upposed to prevent it from sliding up, but if it's shot it won't do this job, so the shaft will ride up. And, because the steering wheel is connected to the shaft , it rides up too, creating the space you're talking about. I fixed mine solo, by cutting a 2x4 the right length, putting a piece of foam on each end, and jamming it between the center of the wheel (take of a batt terminal so the horn doesn't sound) and headliner over the rear window. Then I could work on the shaft without worrying about it slipping up.

 

Hah the 2x4 thing is exctally what I did