2000 expedition brake time
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: wauconda il.
2000 expedition brake time
I'ts time to replace the brakes front and rear on my wifes 00 expedition but have been unable to find any info on them. the min. rotor thickness the bolt size for the caliper arm { poss 18mm} and the allen size . tried pep boys and auto zone and found out the hayes manual is not avaiable after 1999. can anyone help. I REALLY DONOT WANT TO SPEND MIN. 250$ PER AXLE.
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 12,679
Likes: 15
From: BC, Canada
2000 expedition brake time
Hi sickchuck and welcome to FTE 
At http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vd...asp?menuIndex=2 you can buy manuals for most newer Fords. You also might be able to find genuine Ford cd and dvd shop manuals on Ebay. If you cant find them there the guys at www.flatratetech.com can supply them.
The manual shows the rear rotor minimum thickness as .40" or 10.5mm. The front rotor minumum is 1.09" or 27.7mm.
The front caliper bolts should be T45 Torx. The caliper brackets should be 18mm but could possibly be either 15 or 21 mm.
At http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vd...asp?menuIndex=2 you can buy manuals for most newer Fords. You also might be able to find genuine Ford cd and dvd shop manuals on Ebay. If you cant find them there the guys at www.flatratetech.com can supply them.
The manual shows the rear rotor minimum thickness as .40" or 10.5mm. The front rotor minumum is 1.09" or 27.7mm.
The front caliper bolts should be T45 Torx. The caliper brackets should be 18mm but could possibly be either 15 or 21 mm.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 242
Likes: 2
From: Chippewa Falls, WI
2000 expedition brake time
Originally posted by Racerguy
Sprocket nut? If you mean the nut on the end of the axle you dont have to remove that. The rotor slides off after you remove the caliper bracket.
Sprocket nut? If you mean the nut on the end of the axle you dont have to remove that. The rotor slides off after you remove the caliper bracket.
Good luck!!!
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
From: Florida
2000 expedition brake time
I just changed my front pads and cut my rotors the other week. If you have access to air tools, that will save you lots of time,money and headache. The center nut actually was only hand tight, took it off removed the front and rear bearing sets and had midas cut them for 30 bux. Repacked the bearings and used anti-seize on the back of the pads to keep from squealing and thats it......an all day job reduced down to half a day( no thanks to midas)!!
Have Fun!
Have Fun!
Trending Topics
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 12,679
Likes: 15
From: BC, Canada
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
From: NJ USA
2000 expedition brake time
Quick tip, if you are going to replace the rotors, and for $60-80 a pop, you should anyhow.
They generally are seized on, but resist the initial temptation to beat them with a sledge (it will only screw up your CV joints)
Step 1) spray to soak the mating point with a good penetrating oil.
Step 2) Remove all of the hardware , Caliper, etc.
Step 3) using a Sawzall, or porta-band saw, make 3 evenly spaced cuts beginning from the edge of the rotor, towards the center (like a pie) BE CAREFUL not to cut to far, and into the axle
Step 4) smack the freshly cut rotor several times firmly with a healthy hammer, on either side, and watch them fall off (just that easy!)
Step 5) sit back and laugh at the guys who pay big bucks to have a shop torch off their rotors, or charge $250 per axle for the job.
P.S. Dont forget to use a liberal amount of Anti-Seize during re-assembly, and use a wire wheel or sand paper to remove any scale from the hub. It will make future brake jobs, and rotor removal with just a rubber mallet a walk in the park.
Good luck!
J
They generally are seized on, but resist the initial temptation to beat them with a sledge (it will only screw up your CV joints)
Step 1) spray to soak the mating point with a good penetrating oil.
Step 2) Remove all of the hardware , Caliper, etc.
Step 3) using a Sawzall, or porta-band saw, make 3 evenly spaced cuts beginning from the edge of the rotor, towards the center (like a pie) BE CAREFUL not to cut to far, and into the axle
Step 4) smack the freshly cut rotor several times firmly with a healthy hammer, on either side, and watch them fall off (just that easy!)
Step 5) sit back and laugh at the guys who pay big bucks to have a shop torch off their rotors, or charge $250 per axle for the job.
P.S. Dont forget to use a liberal amount of Anti-Seize during re-assembly, and use a wire wheel or sand paper to remove any scale from the hub. It will make future brake jobs, and rotor removal with just a rubber mallet a walk in the park.
Good luck!
J
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 242
Likes: 2
From: Chippewa Falls, WI
2000 expedition brake time
Originally posted by jrahn
Step 5) sit back and laugh at the guys who pay big bucks to have a shop torch off their rotors, or charge $250 per axle for the job.
Step 5) sit back and laugh at the guys who pay big bucks to have a shop torch off their rotors, or charge $250 per axle for the job.
Let's do some math here -
two rotors $160
brake pads $30
penetrating oil $5
Sazall blades $8
anti-seize compound $4
hand cleaner $5
box of band-aids to cover all the busted knuckles $3
minimum 2 hours under the Expy (priceless)
Total = $215
I paid $235 for the local stealership (not a brake shop like I first thought) to do it while I sat in their waiting room reading the newspaper and consuming free coffee and donuts. That's $20 bucks well spent in my book.
Of course, as they say "eggs are cheaper in the country (I'm in WI)," so you would probably pay more at a dealership or brake shop in a bigger city.
Great idea for cutting the rotors to get them off. I must admit that I'm bit concerned that the dealership monkeys may have overheated the hubs when they torched my rotors off.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
From: NJ USA
2000 expedition brake time
I didnt mean for people to actually laugh at you, but I too have been ripped by the dealer, or brakeshops.
I agree that $20.00 is a good price for enjoying Coffee and Doughnuts.
I dont know of a method to check the hubs for damage from overheating.
I agree that $20.00 is a good price for enjoying Coffee and Doughnuts.
I dont know of a method to check the hubs for damage from overheating.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: wauconda il.
2000 expedition brake time
what I will do is try getting everything loose first, if the rotors don't loosen after soaking with penatrating oil, for a few hours I'll let them soak for a week and try them again. can't do it this weekend , mid 30's and SNOW on sat. not any better on sunday. no garage.
New User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
2000 expedition brake time
Hey, the cutting suggestion worked great! I used a hacksaw. The right rotor took three cuts, the left only two. Each cut took about 5 minutes, a few skirts of WD40 and about a pint of sweat. When the cut gets down near the hub you can hear a little "ping" when the stresses in the metal let go.
It seems this problem is caused by the hub recess on the rotor being quite a bit deeper than the hub itself, when the excess metal on the inside of the rotor rusts it expands behind the hub and locks the rotor on to the hub real solid. I had 2 or 3 handfuls of rust flakes on the ground underneath each rotor after it finally loosened. Never had this happen on any of my other cars.
Anyway thanks for the tip!
'98 F-150 XLT, 4.6L, 4x4
It seems this problem is caused by the hub recess on the rotor being quite a bit deeper than the hub itself, when the excess metal on the inside of the rotor rusts it expands behind the hub and locks the rotor on to the hub real solid. I had 2 or 3 handfuls of rust flakes on the ground underneath each rotor after it finally loosened. Never had this happen on any of my other cars.
Anyway thanks for the tip!
'98 F-150 XLT, 4.6L, 4x4