epoxy primer
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FTE fan
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: paradise, northern calif.
epoxy primer
I just finished welding in patches on my fi door bottoms, and since the doors were off the truck i figured id clean up the spots that are hard to get to. well i kinda opened a can of worms.Once i got into it i realized with all the nooks and crannies on the doors and jams not to mention removing all my new rubber ect. this was a job i only wanted to do once ,(take down to clean metal, some of the few areas i hadnt done yet), so i got supplys from my nearest auto body supply house to spray epoxy primer to seal and block. Ok i dont mind the work but since im very seriuos about keeping my truck on the road as much as possible I need to know, can i piece meal final primers, and or finish paint ( ill probably use a one step enamel) doors, jams, followd by fenders ect or shoud i wait and primer,seal blockall at once I do want to get inside the fenders door jams, ill save the interior for later. I dont know what im doing and could use a push in the right direction. I bought a debelliss starting line 2 gun set and air dryers and have suit and mask. Any pointers will be apreceiated ( LOST JIMMY )
Welder User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,269
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From: northwest MT
Jim, you don't have to prime it all at once...but it is easier to do as much as you can at one time. Priming the doors off the truck is a good idea, then you won't miss any spots. As long as you are using the same primer on all, it don't matter what order you do them. It is best to prime everything before you start painting though...
As for inside the door, if you can't spray in there....use a paint brush.
As for inside the door, if you can't spray in there....use a paint brush.
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FTE fan
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,674
Likes: 11
From: paradise, northern calif.
I just finished welding in patches on my fi door bottoms, and since the doors were off the truck i figured id clean up the spots that are hard to get to. well i kinda opened a can of worms.Once i got into it i realized with all the nooks and crannies on the doors and jams not to mention removing all my new rubber ect. this was a job i only wanted to do once ,(take down to clean metal, some of the few areas i hadnt done yet), so i got supplys from my nearest auto body supply house to spray epoxy primer to seal and block. Ok i dont mind the work but since im very seriuos about keeping my truck on the road as much as possible I need to know, can i piece meal final primers, and or finish paint ( ill probably use a one step enamel) doors, jams, followd by fenders ect or shoud i wait and primer,seal blockall at once I do want to get inside the fenders door jams, ill save the interior for later. I dont know what im doing and could use a push in the right direction. I bought a debelliss starting line 2 gun set and air dryers and have suit and mask. Any pointers will be apreceiated ( LOST JIMMY )
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,035
Likes: 330
From: Waterford, VA. USA
Jim, one thing you will want to do is get the spec. sheet for the epoxy primers that you plan to use. These multi part urethane primers will require you to sand/scuff between coats after a certain window of time has passed, you will also want to be sure that the topcoat you are planning is compatible with the primers,etc. Most automotive paints are marketed in a "system" format, meaning the primers/basecoats/topcoats are all compatible with each other. You will avoid a lot of problems by using one brand/system when it comes time to paint. There are a bunch of guys here that can help you a lot more than I can regarding specifics as I am not a pro by any means.
Good luck!
Wade
Good luck!
Wade
Welder User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,269
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From: northwest MT
Epoxy primers are not designed to "fill". Some have more build properties than others. Do your metal work and try to get it as straight as you can. Use plastic filler if you have to.(as little as possible) I generally use epoxy at this point.....over the filler and bare metal.
If you are going for super straight, then use a Hi-build primer next and block sand.....that will tell you how straight the body really is.
I use generic epoxy primer, you can cover it with about anything if you let it dry and sand it...
If you are going for super straight, then use a Hi-build primer next and block sand.....that will tell you how straight the body really is.
I use generic epoxy primer, you can cover it with about anything if you let it dry and sand it...
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,094
Likes: 654
From: Brentwood, TN
Take a look at the SEM Metalock direct to metal epoxy primer. SEM Products - Catalog - METALOCK DTM HIGH BUILD PRIMER KIT
Used in a 4:1 ratio and unthinned it is a great high-build DTM primer for bare metal. Thin at half rate it works great as a finishing primer for filling sanding scratches, etc. At full thinning rate it is a sealer that can be applied just before the colorcoat to hold out anything that may want to bleed through your final finish. I have been using this product for a couple of years now and like the way it sprays, bonds, and sands. A 5 qt kit (1 gal primer, 1 qt activator) runs under $100 in most places.
Used in a 4:1 ratio and unthinned it is a great high-build DTM primer for bare metal. Thin at half rate it works great as a finishing primer for filling sanding scratches, etc. At full thinning rate it is a sealer that can be applied just before the colorcoat to hold out anything that may want to bleed through your final finish. I have been using this product for a couple of years now and like the way it sprays, bonds, and sands. A 5 qt kit (1 gal primer, 1 qt activator) runs under $100 in most places.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 189
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From: Austin Texas
Mine one good suggestion from years of painting, is it best to stick with one brand if possible. These systems are designed to work together and if you mix and match you may have issues with the final top coat. If you do mix and match I recommend a sealer before you apply your top coat. Lastly read all the instructions, as "cruisetopdown" said, some of these primers have a limited time before they must be sanded or a highfill primer sprayed on top.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,094
Likes: 654
From: Brentwood, TN
Mine one good suggestion from years of painting, is it best to stick with one brand if possible. These systems are designed to work together and if you mix and match you may have issues with the final top coat. If you do mix and match I recommend a sealer before you apply your top coat. Lastly read all the instructions, as "cruisetopdown" said, some of these primers have a limited time before they must be sanded or a highfill primer sprayed on top.
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FTE fan
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: paradise, northern calif.
Thank you ALL for your help and taking the time to give it. I so appreciate it. I do have the product spec. sheet, and yes it does say after one or two medium wet coats allow15 to 30 min. between coats at 77 degrees, and either 60 min. to top coat or scuff after48 hr.. the counter person at the auto paint store said if i use a single stage enamel that they cary i should have no problems. thanks to you guys i now know i dont have the high build primer i thought i had.( i may or may not use after this) Each of you has taught me someting i needed to know thanks again, and now i will once again enjoy doing something i havent done b4 i had my truck. It wont be perfect, but at least i did it myself , with your help.
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FTE fan
Joined: Dec 2006
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Likes: 11
From: paradise, northern calif.
Im glad i asked for help. i just realized that at one point i used a two part arasol product as a sealer and did not scuff after wards, and now i know why nothing would stick to it properly. I need to sand thru the rust oleum that i used for temporary protection down to that sealer and scuff or remove it so my new epoxy primer will adhere properly. thanks again
Welder User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,269
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From: northwest MT
The original Ford paint is baked on and should be fairly stable.
Let us know how it goes.
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FTE fan
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: paradise, northern calif.
(JIMMY)
Welder User
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: northwest MT
As a general rule do not apply body filler over paint.....you can apply over some epoxy primers, check the data sheet first though.
Another thing....modern body fillers are not a bad thing, if used correctly. Thin coats and use as little as possible.
Us body guys know how to do all this work correctly......from years of experience. Some times we forget that the average car guy doesn't have all of the tools and knowledge to do bodywork. So keep asking.
Another thing....modern body fillers are not a bad thing, if used correctly. Thin coats and use as little as possible.
Us body guys know how to do all this work correctly......from years of experience. Some times we forget that the average car guy doesn't have all of the tools and knowledge to do bodywork. So keep asking.
Thread Starter
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FTE fan
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,674
Likes: 11
From: paradise, northern calif.
As a general rule do not apply body filler over paint.....you can apply over some epoxy primers, check the data sheet first though.
Another thing....modern body fillers are not a bad thing, if used correctly. Thin coats and use as little as possible.
Us body guys know how to do all this work correctly......from years of experience. Some times we forget that the average car guy doesn't have all of the tools and knowledge to do bodywork. So keep asking.
Another thing....modern body fillers are not a bad thing, if used correctly. Thin coats and use as little as possible.
Us body guys know how to do all this work correctly......from years of experience. Some times we forget that the average car guy doesn't have all of the tools and knowledge to do bodywork. So keep asking.
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