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2000 Expedition Trans Line

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Old May 12, 2011 | 06:01 PM
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2000 Expedition Trans Line

Started to replace the radiator in my dads 2000 Expedition. Everything was easy until i got to the lower hose. I cut it off because we have a new one. Last thing was the lower transmission line that comes into the drivers side of the radiator. Thought i had the wrench holding the back in place while i loosened the line but the wrench wasn't on and the line is kinked bad. Any way to fix it? If not, what part do i need to order and where's the cheapest place to get it? I can upload a pic if you guys want. Thanks.

2000 Expedition XLT 5.4L with towing package and oil cooler
 
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Old May 12, 2011 | 06:06 PM
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Old May 12, 2011 | 06:32 PM
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Line coupling with compression rings is about all you can do short of replacing the whole line.
I would not try a flare coupling as the line may split when you try to flare it.
Pay more attention in the future, it's cheaper and less hassle!
Good luck.
 
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Old May 12, 2011 | 06:35 PM
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Yea it would or maybe if ford had some good engineering and made one job simple. I've moved away from them but still have to work on my dads.
 
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Old May 12, 2011 | 06:37 PM
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What would i need and how would i do it with the line coupling and compression rings?
 
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Old May 12, 2011 | 07:16 PM
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A compression coupling to fit the line size found at a good auto parts store.
Or you could make the repair with transmision flexable rubber hose and clamps. Here you should cut back to good metal line and do a small amount of flare with a tool.
Slip the transmission grade hose on about 1-1/4 " and double clamp each side you do this on.
All the same things you would do if installing a transmission cooler.
The small amount of flare is too allow the rubber line to grip and not blow off later. The rubber will relax with time and needs two clamps and to be checked from time to time for tightness and leaks.
Good luck.
 
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Old May 12, 2011 | 08:10 PM
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What size hose do i need? Do i use the metal end with the same screw in thing again and use 4 clamps total?
 
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Old May 12, 2011 | 08:18 PM
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You have to match the "inside hose diameter" (ID) to the metal pipe outside diameter (OD).
You need enough pipe left with the radiator nut/fitting to get onto with the hose, reliably with clamps.
 
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Old May 12, 2011 | 11:43 PM
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Thanks for the advice. Got the job done and it all worked out, no leaks. Only cost about $6 more
 
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