The Great Oiling Debate
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Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Halifax, NS
The Great Oiling Debate
Is it worth it to run an oil line to the rear of the block on the 400????? I dont like the idea of losing my oil pressure sending unit for this purpose. What about just using a High Volume Oil Pump???
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The Great Oiling Debate
Exactly how many times have you had oil related engine failures in the past?? Why would takin oil from the front of the engine and diverting it to the rear help anything, expecially if youre not spinning it over 7000K?? Don't worry about doing this "mod" to the oiling system. The resulting increase in pressure reading is just that, a pressure reading. Your taking the reading right off the pump, instead of what it actually is at the end of the oils path, so your basically getting a false sense of security.
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From: Porterfield
The Great Oiling Debate
I agree with Deebo78.... If your not spinning your motor over 6000 Rpm's then the added oil line has little benefits for a street engine.
I leave the line at 4500 Rpm's and am at 8000 Rpm's 50 Ft. down the track. and hold it there till the end of the pull which last about 28 Sec. Now 28 Sec. don't seem like a long time but it's twice as long as most 1/4 mile runs. And if you really have to get an Idea of 28 Sec. take a stop watch get in your car start it up get it to temp then at the same time start the stop watch and floor it and hold it at 8000 Rpm's for 28 Sec. After about 5 Sec. your butt cheeks are going to get tight , and at 10 Sec. your going to let off
Because there's no since in blowing up your motor.
The oil line has it benefits if your spinning over 6000 Rpm's allot .
Take from someone who has blown up a few of these motors. It took me 3 motors and $20,000.00 to believe in the oil line to the back, and I'll never run one of mine without it again .
ShaZam
I leave the line at 4500 Rpm's and am at 8000 Rpm's 50 Ft. down the track. and hold it there till the end of the pull which last about 28 Sec. Now 28 Sec. don't seem like a long time but it's twice as long as most 1/4 mile runs. And if you really have to get an Idea of 28 Sec. take a stop watch get in your car start it up get it to temp then at the same time start the stop watch and floor it and hold it at 8000 Rpm's for 28 Sec. After about 5 Sec. your butt cheeks are going to get tight , and at 10 Sec. your going to let off
Because there's no since in blowing up your motor.
The oil line has it benefits if your spinning over 6000 Rpm's allot .
Take from someone who has blown up a few of these motors. It took me 3 motors and $20,000.00 to believe in the oil line to the back, and I'll never run one of mine without it again .
ShaZam
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From: Halifax, NS
The Great Oiling Debate
To clarify, I got this tip out of a Ford Casting number book, you guys know the type.. performance oriented, to help people find high nickel content blocks for rebuilding, and stuff of that sort. So of course, the tip was likely intended for people with performance intentions for the 400. To clarify, it mentioned the fact that the rear mains don't get oiled too well under the existing set-up
Mine is going to be rebuilt with flat top pistons, and an RV cam, as I intend to run it on propane. It certainly will not see 5,000 rpm, as it's going to be a simple puller in my 76 F250.
I only just bought my truck in December, and I haven't really driven it thus far, it's out at the farm as it were, while I go to school in the city. I am a university student who frames houses in the summer. In about a month I will put the truck on the road. I haven't gotten around to running the numbers on the engine in the truck yet, but I suspect it's an 80's engine, as there is a ported vacuum switch on the thermostat housing, which speaks to me of 80's emissions.
Mine is going to be rebuilt with flat top pistons, and an RV cam, as I intend to run it on propane. It certainly will not see 5,000 rpm, as it's going to be a simple puller in my 76 F250.
I only just bought my truck in December, and I haven't really driven it thus far, it's out at the farm as it were, while I go to school in the city. I am a university student who frames houses in the summer. In about a month I will put the truck on the road. I haven't gotten around to running the numbers on the engine in the truck yet, but I suspect it's an 80's engine, as there is a ported vacuum switch on the thermostat housing, which speaks to me of 80's emissions.
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The Great Oiling Debate
Ported vacuum switches go way back, -thru the 70's and into the 60's if I remember right. Memory gets dim that far back...
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From: Phoenix USA
The Great Oiling Debate
I'm not sure I understand the theory of save the high volume pump till the lifters start to rattle. I want high volumes of oil at the mains all the time, not high pressure but lots of oil. I have always been told that 400's were notorious for kicking out the main bearings and if you wait till the lifters are rattling hasn't the damage already begun?
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Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Halifax, NS
The Great Oiling Debate
I definitly agree with that in principle.. would like to hear more.
I have yet to get a pressure tester on this 400 of mine, but I know the gauge drops to the low end of the normal range when at operating temp, and stays there at any rpm. I definitly do not intend on leaving this mill in my truck too long, once i can afford it, i'm hauling it out for a rebuild. I'm still not convinced either way on whether i'll go with the line to the back of the block, the high volume pump, or both!!
And yes, i do remember now seeing ported vacuum switches on engines older than 80's... i concede that as a brain fart, i had a 77 merc cougar once, and it's <a href="http://motorhaven.autoanything.com/">302 </a>had about 4 of those switches if i recall correctly.
I have yet to get a pressure tester on this 400 of mine, but I know the gauge drops to the low end of the normal range when at operating temp, and stays there at any rpm. I definitly do not intend on leaving this mill in my truck too long, once i can afford it, i'm hauling it out for a rebuild. I'm still not convinced either way on whether i'll go with the line to the back of the block, the high volume pump, or both!!
And yes, i do remember now seeing ported vacuum switches on engines older than 80's... i concede that as a brain fart, i had a 77 merc cougar once, and it's <a href="http://motorhaven.autoanything.com/">302 </a>had about 4 of those switches if i recall correctly.
Last edited by Craigwell; Mar 23, 2003 at 09:46 PM.
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From: ny
The Great Oiling Debate
can someone explian this oil line to me and where it goes? it cant go to the back of the motor where the sender is for the simple fact that the oil comes out there. oil cant be pumped aginst it self.hence hydro. lock
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The Great Oiling Debate
You could get a restrictor kit and only install the restrictors to the cam bearings and not to the lifter gallery crossover at the rear main. We used to do that on Clevelands for street use ( you couldn't trust guys to use them the way they SAID they were going to ). That would help a little. Ford got their priorities all screwed up when they designed the oiling system on this series motor, but it can be made to work as Shazam has proven.
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From: Minneapolis, MN
The Great Oiling Debate
Originally posted by jpannozo
can someone explian this oil line to me and where it goes? it cant go to the back of the motor where the sender is for the simple fact that the oil comes out there. oil cant be pumped aginst it self.hence hydro. lock
can someone explian this oil line to me and where it goes? it cant go to the back of the motor where the sender is for the simple fact that the oil comes out there. oil cant be pumped aginst it self.hence hydro. lock
Hope this clarifies things.
Greg
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From: ny
The Great Oiling Debate
ok so the oil line comes off the oil hole by the fuel pump and runs to the rear where the <a href="http://motorhaven.autoanything.com/">sending unit</a> is correct? what size line should i use and how exactly does it go i cant use oil restrictors cuz of hydro lifters this would benifit my engine alot cuz it runs about 7000-8000 alot.