How high? Not likely.

 

They didn't tell me what the pressure actually read and I didn't think to ask. I don't know how common it is for that dessicant to get into the system, but that's what they told me it was. I honestly don't think they even opened up the system to look.

 

I was looking at the variable Orifice Tubes and was wondering if anyone has tried them. It's supposed to provide cooler temps when at idle. They're about $40-50 depending on the parts store.

Anyone have any experience with them and thoughts on how they work?

 

Nope, but I can't imagine getting any colder than the 38639 orifice tube. I can get the inside of my CC downright COLD on a 100* day and you can hang meat in the X with both AC's crankin' out sub-50* air on high fan. I have tried to tough it out and leave the fan on high in MAX AC - but I can't do it, eventually I get too cold even with the vents pointed away from me. I've heard the evap will freeze over in MAX AC and low fan, I'll have to try that sometime.

I just bought a 38639 at o'riellys yesterday for $1.81 to send to a friend.

 

I would like to chime in on an issue I have had recently.

We took a trip to Colorado about a month ago and have never had a problem with the A/C until our return trip. So once we got back to our area I checked and noticed the system was low so I added about 2 cans of R134. It lasted about a week and then I noticed that the front ac was blowing alot warmer than the rear and was slowly (day to day- varying temps) getting warmer till finally both front and rear were warm.

I tried taking it into a friends shop and his mechanic pulled a vac on it for only about 10 minutes, then added 2 cans and then said the entire system was shot (said low side @ 2 cans was showing 50 psi), due to me adding the two cans that I did and not pulling a vacuum to remove moisture. They said it would take $1000 to fix. I wasn't happy with the answer due to never having a problem till our trip.

So I took it to the local dealer. There they pulled a vac, installed dye and recharged the system (said the pressure on high and low side's were good). I was told to drive it for a week and bring it back. One night, a few days (last Friday) after they charged it I thought I'd see if the dye was present, it was, all over the engine compartment but not from the system. I went back to Ford and asked "how can you tell where the leak is if you have dye all over". That's when I was told from the mechanic that he accidentally spilled the dye. He then went to check for a leak (with me there) and couldn't tell himself (due to the spill) and said he needed to do the process over, then would run the truck back to detail and clean off the dye he originally spilled. I agreed! He also said that the front blowing warmer than the rear tells him that the evaporator in front is bad and quoted a price!

Well, night before last I went out and checked and still noticed the dye (from the spill- splatters everywhere you can look). I am supposed to go back, and I will, to not only have them clean the engine compartment again but to also talk with the owner of the dealership (showing him myself the dye all over), they still have an open ticket with my Ex.

I'm not a Happy Camper! My ac is still not diagnosed! I know enough to install dye and check for leak's but cannot find anything, that's why I went there.

I am not sure what to do? Looking for advice, either of DIY or where to from here! Seems like a lot of other shops around this area are out to get what money they can! I'm not trying to get screwed and can usually resolve my own auto related issues! Any help is appreciated!

 

Sounds like the front blend door or the evaporator might be a problem if the rear is colder than the front. Sucks about the dye everywhere can I would try cleaning it out myself if it will help diagnose the problem.

BTW, my rear evaporator was leaking and didn't show up until it was cold and I wasn't using it. It would drip on the tail pipe, but when I took the rear apart to get to the evaporator I found some dye all over the floor of the truck and soaked into the padding. I still have no idea where the leak was coming from in that area.

 

I like the sound of $1.81 much better than $40+, but if it would help it work better in traffic and idle it would be worth it to me.

I noticed some of the orifice tubes are rated for above or below 105 degrees. Is the 38369 one that's for above 105 or something? I'm just wondering how everyone started going to this one. I was reading into it and some people think it can change some pressures in the system. I won't try to pretend like I know what I'm talking about...I'm just hopefully explaining what I read correctly and trying to get and keep my system working it's very best.

Thankfully, the temps are dropping and it's not bad. I actually drove with the windows down this morning taking my son to football practice!

During my investigating, I did find a mix of opinions on the Variable Orifice Tube. Some people swore by them, while some people despised them (said the broke down).

 

Ok, there is no reason for a '10min vacuum'. That's just dumb. We evacuate the system to remove the moisture by lowering its boiling point with a negative pressure/vacuum. There can't be moisture in a partially charged system since its under pressure. Kind of like how your tires don't fill up with water over time... If the system is open for any reason, it must be evacuated.

Most leaks leave a telltale trail of oil and dye is not necessary to find them. However, REALLY slow leaks will often leave a dye stain over a few days if it doesn't show up right away. If they can't use a different color dye, yer gonna need to clean and degrease the engine thoroughly - look for dye and repeat if necessary. OR, find someplace that uses a 'sniffer' to detect leaking freon!

IIRC, the system holds like (6) 'cans' of freon. I dunno what they could tell from only (2) cans.

Unless the evaporator is plugged with leaves or something, the only way it is 'bad' is if its leaking. Since the systems share a compressor and condensor, I don't see how a leak would make one warmer than the other. You should verify the valve on heater core closes when ya switch to 'max AC' and the blend door is not sticking.

I have not changed an evaporator, but I wouldn't be afraid to. It may be a PITA, but its just nuts and bolts. It ain't no swiss watch, you'll be able to put it back together. A condensor, filter/drier, compressor or the orifice tube all just take minutes each to swap out. Then, pay one of the shops to evacuate and recharge it. You wanna see +27 inHg and the longer pump runs the better - we usually let it run at least an hour. Then, MAKE SURE it HOLDS a vacuum for 15-20min before adding freon. If there's a leak, you'll usually know pretty quickly.

No way I'd pay a shop $1000 to fix my AC, even if I didn't own a vacuum pump and gauges. Oh yeah - check with the local tool rental places and see if they have vac pump and gauges!!??

I dunno, I first heard about it from powerstrokehelp guy. Edited my last post with the right part #... Its 38639, sorry about that.

 

There's also a TSB on the Accumulator/desiccant bag "failing" and clogging the orifice tube. http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/ad...160945_a-c.pdf

I was/am having a similar problem and it's because desiccant was completely clogging my orifice tube.

The shop quoted me like $500! I said no thanks, just put a new orifice tube in it for $2 and put it all back together.

From Rockauto.com:
Accumulator $18.58
Orifice Tube $4.16
Condenser $72

I was unaware of the "Snow Plow" orifice tube and can't seem to find that part number on the Tousley Ford Parts site. Are there anymore parts to that part #? I'd like to order it so I can use that one when I put mine all back together...

It's been hot here in the valley the last couple of weeks and the kids are not happy about being stuck riding in the old Dodge Durango...

 

I took it in again today with a new orifice tube for them to put in. They called shortly after to say they didn't want to open the system unless they had to. The stop leak I put in is the problem. They said it's very delicate once that is in there and bad things can happen when exposed to air. Sound logical to me.

Anyway...they wanted to clean the condenser, radiator and intercooler for $50. Normally I would have said no, but they said it looked dirty even though I cleaned it last year. Well, it seemed to work! Once it was cleaned, the pressures all went normal and they were able to get 53 degrees out of the vents.

Is that optimal? No. I'll take it for now, though. I really wish I wouldn't have put that damn stop leak in the system. It cools much better than before, but it isn't 105 out either.

Just wanted to fill you guys in on what happened.


LWW,
Here's a link to that orifice tube everyone is talking about...

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...=S8&vi=1433635

 

Ok, I pulled the evaporator out and even though I couldn't see any dye, I went ahead and changed it. I was told from Napa that the evaporator looked good and to take a closer look at the compressor, he then told me to pull the clutch off the front of the compressor. There I was able to notice dye residue around the shaft, so I bought a new kit (condenser, compressor, oil and flush), the orfice tube mentioned on this forum, and new o-rings (for the all the ac lines under the hood) since I pulled the a/c lines in the engine compartment near the evaporator/heater box all loose. I figured that if there was any trace of dye around the compressor shaft, that it was leaking the freon out but not so much the oil/dye due to it being thicker (couldn't be seen with the clutch on).

When I got back to the house I flushed the system, installed all the new parts and o-rings, then pulled a vacuum for about 45-60 minutes! After that I let it sit, checking gauges periodically, noticing that it held the vacuum for over 45 minutes, so I went ahead and added the new oil and freon.

It was bone chilly! , but thought I'd check it again tonight and noticed one of the lines I pulled had some dye seeping out around it. The line I am referring to was right above the blower motor housing and I believe it goes to the rear air, it was the only one with the bit nut style fittings going together.


Is there a o-ring seal kit for the Ex's air conditioning lines? Napa went through a o-ring assortment and found the sizes I had brought in. Is there something else that should've/can been done to re-seal the line in mention (threaded/nut style)? I tried to tighten it a little more, but it already is real snug!

Thanks in advance and for the other advice given!