will only idle
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New User
Joined: May 2011
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From: Portland, OR
Good imput thanks,
A friend of a friend is coming over on Sat to see if he can help figure it out. I understand he has loved and owned and worked on older ford trucks all his life, he sounds like he knows what he is talking about, and he has been around longer than my 47 years by a long shot. I am very happy to be able to see an expert at work and gleen any gems that i can. I will keep you all informed. I would like to say thanks to you all for the imput you have offered. I had a 65 F100 when I was 18 but I dont recall ever having this problem. still have a lot to learn.
A friend of a friend is coming over on Sat to see if he can help figure it out. I understand he has loved and owned and worked on older ford trucks all his life, he sounds like he knows what he is talking about, and he has been around longer than my 47 years by a long shot. I am very happy to be able to see an expert at work and gleen any gems that i can. I will keep you all informed. I would like to say thanks to you all for the imput you have offered. I had a 65 F100 when I was 18 but I dont recall ever having this problem. still have a lot to learn.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 562
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From: Texas
no problem.....the older I get, the more I realize that I have a lot to learn.
Posting Guru
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From: Rossmoor at Seal Beach
[quote=rocket trooper;10333391]Thank you Don, Maybe I misundertood. A Guy I was talking to said that when you use the manual choke that there is some sort of cold / warm or high/low setting and you depress the pedal before you pull the choke to re set it?. Does that make any sense[/quote
Yes what that guy was talking about is an automatic choke, not manual there is a procedure for setting a manual choke up properly, and it is different for different type carbs, aka Holley Vs Edelbrock! after it is set up properly, the starting procedure is pull the choke out to its preset, depress the throttle pedal once to prime, and then turn the key to start. Auto chokes you just depress the pedal once, and the choke will automatically set it self... similar but not quite the same.
Yes what that guy was talking about is an automatic choke, not manual there is a procedure for setting a manual choke up properly, and it is different for different type carbs, aka Holley Vs Edelbrock! after it is set up properly, the starting procedure is pull the choke out to its preset, depress the throttle pedal once to prime, and then turn the key to start. Auto chokes you just depress the pedal once, and the choke will automatically set it self... similar but not quite the same.
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New User
Joined: May 2011
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From: Portland, OR
Still cant figure it out.Only starts with choke full open. lowest idle I can get is at 1200. Any lower and she dies. When I depress the gas she sounds like shes not running on all cyc. I can step on it and shes real slow to increase rpms and then max is aprx 4-5000,and sound weak.Just feel like iam going in circles. I did get a rebuld kit for the carb today. But before I start to rebuild I feel like I need to be sure that is the likley prob. Just frustrating pure and simple.
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From: Rossmoor at Seal Beach
Still cant figure it out.Only starts with choke full open. lowest idle I can get is at 1200. Any lower and she dies. When I depress the gas she sounds like shes not running on all cyc. I can step on it and shes real slow to increase rpms and then max is aprx 4-5000,and sound weak.Just feel like iam going in circles. I did get a rebuld kit for the carb today. But before I start to rebuild I feel like I need to be sure that is the likley prob. Just frustrating pure and simple.
The only way to know for sure is to tear her down, Good luck! Keep us updated!
More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 707
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From: Sauk City, WI
I have my doubts if its a vacuum leak Short. Only 1 vacuum line on a stock '66 352, that runs to the vacuum advance on the distributor. Rebuilding the carb should be the first step. Its a cheap and easy fix. If he has good spark, its a fuel delivery problem.
If the carb is good, and he has good spark, its time for a compression test to determine if he has any bad cylinders.
If the carb is good, and he has good spark, its time for a compression test to determine if he has any bad cylinders.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 562
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From: Texas
I have my doubts if its a vacuum leak Short. Only 1 vacuum line on a stock '66 352, that runs to the vacuum advance on the distributor. Rebuilding the carb should be the first step. Its a cheap and easy fix. If he has good spark, its a fuel delivery problem.
If the carb is good, and he has good spark, its time for a compression test to determine if he has any bad cylinders.
If the carb is good, and he has good spark, its time for a compression test to determine if he has any bad cylinders.
But again...you are probably right...the carb is a prime suspect at this point.
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From: Rossmoor at Seal Beach
There could be a leak between the intake manifold and the heads that will be very hard to find, and will cause this problem very easily! It doesn't have to be at the carb. Most of the leaks I have repaired for friends have been Intake to head leaks. And a few of my own too! Also check for a cracked manifold, had that happen once too!
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New User
Joined: May 2011
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From: Portland, OR
learned a few things
So gentleman, sorry ive not responded for a bit. Once again your imput was very helpful.
Ive cleaned out the carb, so much gunk in the botton of the 2 bowls iam surprised she even started.
Now she will start with the choke full open and I can get her down to aprx 800 rpm ,almost got the choke closed all the way.
At the lowest idle I can get she is running rough but the best so far. when i step on her she sounds like a truck again. so i think just some minor adjustments and i will have her running like a dream. 1st thing i need to do is get her to idle while choke is all the way in, iam thinking I will turn up the idle screw a bit, then try to get the air fuel mix better, she seems to be running rich i think, then check timing. Also found out the the spacer under the carb should have a vacuum port to the valve cover. Right now The vacuum from the manifold has an adaptor and is connected to the power breaks and going to valve cover, and I think somewhere else ,poss the tranny. By the way i learned a little about the horn, she was sounding funny real weak, so i thought i would adjust her, but the screw was real tight,so i lubed her and guess what happend, she quit working all together. So I learned not to do that again. Thanks for listening.
Ive cleaned out the carb, so much gunk in the botton of the 2 bowls iam surprised she even started.
Now she will start with the choke full open and I can get her down to aprx 800 rpm ,almost got the choke closed all the way.
At the lowest idle I can get she is running rough but the best so far. when i step on her she sounds like a truck again. so i think just some minor adjustments and i will have her running like a dream. 1st thing i need to do is get her to idle while choke is all the way in, iam thinking I will turn up the idle screw a bit, then try to get the air fuel mix better, she seems to be running rich i think, then check timing. Also found out the the spacer under the carb should have a vacuum port to the valve cover. Right now The vacuum from the manifold has an adaptor and is connected to the power breaks and going to valve cover, and I think somewhere else ,poss the tranny. By the way i learned a little about the horn, she was sounding funny real weak, so i thought i would adjust her, but the screw was real tight,so i lubed her and guess what happend, she quit working all together. So I learned not to do that again. Thanks for listening.
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