Here is an even better one.



Mastertech Outboard Motor Repair and Marine 8-WIRE SPARK TESTER

 

YIKES!!! $75 Cool Tool but.... for a electrical idiot like me??

 

The tester I posted the pic of, is called an Ignition Spark Tester, is made by Lisle, and is usually available at any Auto-Parts store. Those stores, like Napa, usually have a rotisserie stand with Lisle tools hanging in blister packs. The P/N is 50850

Here's a link from Amazon:

Amazon.com: Lisle 50850 Ignition Spark Tester: Automotive

 

This one is the first one I found in a short Google search (Outboard Spark Testers). There are cheaper ones. The last one I bought was for only 6 cylinders(the big outboards were only 6 cylinder back then, but it was like $20.

 

Okay. I worked on my old girl all weekend and finally got her running ( if I can call it that ).

1. Replaced ignition modual, cleaned & gapped all the plugs, cleaned all ELECTRICAL connections, replaced starter solenoid, replaced all vacuum lines, replaced fuel lines from pump to carb.

2. Reconnect battery pump the pedal 3 times and turn her over. She fires up and runs for about 20 seconds and dies. Try again, nada. Try again with choke, nada.

3. Pour gas into carb she fires up and dies, Same again for three tries. So all along fuel flow was at least part of the problem. Argess was right there but there is definitely more to the issue as will be apparent as I explain.

So, I do two things one planned, one on the spur.
1. I bypass the gas filter and go direct from pump to carb.
2. I notice the fuel tank switch by the seat on the floor as I am going to turn herr over again and decide to trun it back and forth from main to aux. tank several times.

3. Crank her up and she starts running, use about three quarters choke and let her run for about 3-4 minutes.

4. Shut her down and replace the direct line with fuel filter line set up. Start her up and let her run for about five minutes slowly reducing the choke. She runs fine and gets hot ( as usual ) shut her down and she diesels. So, ARGESS you were right partially ( see following ).

I take her out on the road and she is fine as long as I ever so slowly apply pedal. If I get into the pedal to any degree she sputters, wheezes. I try using the choke some and when I do she doesn't sputter or wheeze quite as much. As I am driving I mess with varying degrees of choke with varying degrees of poor performance.

As long as I'm just tooling along at a constant speed and pedal pressure application and gradual adjustment she is fine. On the highway, same thing. Get her up to 70 and she runs fine. If I try to stomp on her or even just increase acceleration without acting like I have an egg under my foot she bogs, sputters, wheezes.

I take her down to the auto parts place to have the charging system tested and pick up the new thermostat ( more on that later ). Shut her down. When I come back out to have the system tested she barely turns over but catches and fires up. Guy puts the tester on and tells me to crank her up again. Nada. Two turns and she's done. He tries jumping her with the hand held jumper. Nada.

Finally jump her with another vehicle and he puts the tester on and tells me the battery is bad ( cell ). Buy and Replace battery and it starts to pour. I tell him I'll come back for test after torrential rains stop.

Go back Tuesday after work and check the system. No charge from alternator WTF ??? One problem after another or all tied together? The perfect storm??? Or ???

I think back to my research on the modual and remember something whichappears to be a factor with my old gal here.

1. Weak spark. Vehicle needs to run rich with weak spark. Seems to be the case here ( varying degrees of choke even after hot ).

Weak spark because charging system is bad?

Now a step back in time.

When I got her back in June last year she ran well but bogged down when getting into her. She idled really high but I let that go for a while figuring it was probably timing or carb or a bit of both.

In March of this year I finally dug out my timing light and checked timing. She was way advanced so the first thing I did was to adjust timing to the marks. Now her idle was close to where I thought it should be by ear ( no tach ) and took her out. She was a dog. No power, at least not what she had with the timing advanced like it had been. So I advanced the timing little steps ( 2,3,5 deg. ) and tried to adjust the needle valves on the carb ( noting # of turns ) to keep idle down. Thoses adjustments did nothing so I returned needles back to original position and drove her for a while with 2-3 deg. advance. She would diesel when shutting down and ping if I got into her on the highway. Once she was hot I had to shut her down in gear, otherwise she just would keep dieseling until I did ( put her in gear ).

I returned the timing back to where it was when I bought her but she still continued to diesel. WTF? So, I settled for a happy medium as far as the timing went and lived with the dieseling until now.


Two things which bothered me about her when I got her was she really runs hot. I mean you can literally fry an egg on her radiator after 15 minutes.

Two. Idle. Why so friggin high? but she runs best ( or did until I messed around ) with the timing advanced like it was ( guessing 10-12 deg ATDC ?)

My guess is the previous owner was compensating for something that was bad or wrong.

I have so many variables now all I can do is start from scratch once I get a new alternator installed and determine the charging status.

So a review of what I have done as far a replacement.

1. Fuel pump
2. starter solenoid
3. Ignition modual
4. vacuum lines
5. Fuel lines from pump to carb
6. Fuel filter
7. Battery
8. Alternator ( coming up )
9. T-stat

I believe I have a combination of issues which ultimatley led to her not running but what came first?

Cascade effect? or just poor problem solving?

I know the carb ( CARTER AFB COMP SERIES ) has a big part in this but does the electrical as well?

Vacuum advance on the dizzy?

Once I replace the alternator and confirm good charging and replace or remove the T-stat ( I'm thinking the dieseling is from it running so hot? ) wher should I go from there if I'm getting strong spark and fuel?

HELP!!!!!! Frustrated but still happy in Rockville. Thanks Todd.

 

Your fuel pump is not running with the key in the on position.

Oh and cleaning spark plugs is a no-no anymore. The failure rate goes way up after clean. Plugs are cheap, just replace the.

 

That really bad hesitation when you hit the gas, and the fact that it helps when you apply the choke, means your accelerator pump is probably not pumping. With the air cleaner off, look down the throat of the carb and make sure as you pump the throttle that it's pumping gas.

 

Not sure what you mean. Just the key turned on engine off?

Accelerator or fuel? ( pump )

 

I have a mechanical fuel pump.

 

I missed that. However I just reread you last big missive and you have a high idle and hesitation on acceleration. Which means you have a vacuum leak somewhere or a bad PCV.

 

Well, not too many places for a vacuum leak but I know better than to assume all is well. The PCV is old so I will replace.

Question. Should the PCV rattle like a spray can when you shake it? The reason I ask is I took it out and soaked it in Carb cleaner and when I blew it out it rattled like that when I shook it.


I have another problem which I am going to start a new post. both here and the electrical forum. Alternator related.

Thank you Bear, Todd.

 

Yes, the PCV should rattle but that does not mean it is good.

 

Thanks Bear. Will pick one up today.