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Old May 7, 2011 | 08:46 PM
  #1  
mmuenchow's Avatar
mmuenchow
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Cool #3 taking oil

Hi guys, today I fired up the truck and it was smoking out the right side. I puled the plugs and #3 was black, bad oil fouled. Last year when I put it to sleep it was smoking very lightly and now it will foul the plug. I checked the comp and it was within 5 lbs of 1 and 5. So were is the oil coming from? I think the intake valve, but new only 1500 miles ago. Can the umbrella type seal go bad so soon? If so , And how do you replace it with the heads on. Help the old smoker out!~!!!
 
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Old May 7, 2011 | 10:51 PM
  #2  
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Hypoid
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From: Golden, CO
I picked up a low mileage engine that was smoking from one bank, although the guy who had it said it seemed to be getting better.

When I pulled the valve covers, I noticed some of the umbrella seal were missing. After careful examination, I found the missing seals at the top of the valve stem, just under the spring retainer.

As for the 1500 miles, Burg460 can tell you about having heads rebuilt by a good shop, only to get an education from a better shop. The gist is that what many shops call "good" is not that precise, or accurate.

There have been other threads about replacing seals with the heads on the engine. There are also some part numbers for better seals, that don't require machine work to install. I'm just too lazy to search at this moment.
 
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Old May 8, 2011 | 03:43 PM
  #3  
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From: Mddl A MexCans
Could be an intake leak as well. The comp readings are saying it's not likely it's rings. If the guides/valves are new then it shouldn't let enough by to foul things imo. But it is getting in somewhere for sure.

As to the seals that hold, dont those require tooling the guide bungs so they have a locking interface ?
 
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Old May 8, 2011 | 06:52 PM
  #4  
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mmuenchow
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just in from the man room(garage) and the rockers are off and the rubber umbrella seal looks good. The heads were machined for .530 vitiron seals, so off to summit i must go. the Valve had .008 wigle room on it so the guides are good//silicon bronze/. THANK you for the guidance on how replace the seals. Has anyone used this Manley 41870 Manley Valve Spring Compressor
Manley 41870 - Manley Valve Spring Compressor
to remove the springs with the heads on?? i my purchase 1.
as long as i have the rocker off i am going to replace all intake valve seals on this side and would like to use this tool. do you think the exhaust should be replaced also or will they be good to go? thanks guys
 
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Old May 9, 2011 | 08:26 AM
  #5  
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krewat
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Do this:

If it's an auto, lock it into 1st. If it's a stick, keep it in 1st (or 2nd, if it's a granny-1st 435NP).

From a stop, with it in gear, start moving and rev the motor up to 3000-3500 RPMs or so, and then let off the gas fast. Let it rev back down to idle, WITHOUT pushing in the clutch. Then hit the gas pedal hard again.

If it doesn't smoke during the rev-up, but blows a big blue PUFF out the tailpipe after you hit the gas again, it's almost definitely the intake gasket.
 
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Old May 14, 2011 | 05:32 PM
  #6  
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mmuenchow
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No not the valve seals, replaced the intake seal with a vitron seal and it still fouled the plug. It idels pooley,have to close the choke to get the mix rich enough to idel smothley. must be sucking from the bottom side of intake. I had the heads cut .060 on the intake and comp side to get the comp were i wanted it. the intake was not cut. used rtv on the valley and felpro on the heads. May be time to cut the bottom side of intake to get it to seal. should i have it trued up on the head side also? and what about the dizzy hole? herd that edelbrocks can be bad location there. Or just scrap the edelbrock and go back to the ford 4 barrel cast beast?
 
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