Ok, I've done a lot of reading over here about others experience with their new 6.7. I sold my 6.0 in February, and picked up a new 2011 6.7.

Decided it was time to do an oil change at about 5K miles. I was aware of the new drain plug, and different filter setup.

WHY DIDN'T ANYONE SAY HOW FAST THE OIL DRAINS?

My pan is plenty large, used it for my 6.0, but it has the closed top with the drain in the center. I think 1.5 gallons of hot dirty oil ended up on my driveway due to the fact it shoots out sideways, and the drain is about the size of a quarter. My pan couldn't keep up. Now I have 15 pounds of oil dry on my driveway....and a po'd wife.

I guess this was my initiation into the club.

I haven't looked lately at autozone, is there a different kind of drain pan I need?

 

Oh man, that is so funny! LOL for ten freaking minutes. I' not laughing at your plight, just the way you described it. " ... 15 pounds of oil dry on my driveway....and a po'd wife." That is a vivid picture in my mind.

I will be doing my next o/c myself and will definitely be on the lookout.

 

Yea...the 13 quarts evacuates the pan in what seems like 15 seconds.
I'll have a larger pan for my next change due a few weekends from now.
I had read the comments from others and watched Epic's video but figured I had it under control...lol!
It wasn't 1.5 GAL but I did make a small mess on the garage floor.

Watch Epic's oil change video. That drain pan seems very useful.

 

Yea, I'm laughing now too. so is the wife. glad my kids weren't around at the time. Would have gotten schooled in nice salty language.

 

This is the drain pan I have now.

I think I will be buying this one next.

 

Good reminder for those who have yet to do their own oil change. I watched Epic's video which helped me to understand the size of the flow I should expect once the plugs removed.

I took a look at the drian pan link and it looks exactly like mine with one really big difference; my pan is completely open at the top. There is no top or lid (with a drain cap/plug) as the picture in the link suggests. The full open top certainly reduces the margin for error. My oil change routine also includes setting out a nice thick sheet of plastic (about 6' x 6') under the truck for any mishaps. I then pour the used oil into 5 gal. plastic bucket with a lid for safe transport to our local recycler.

I've only done one oil change myself on the new truck so far but the large open pan did the trick. The messy part for me was removing the oil filter - lots of oil came over the top and I still don't understand why. Is this common? Once the oil started flowing over the top I quickly screwed the filter back on. I then punched a 3/16th in hole in the bottom of the filter to drain it. Even with this a lot more oil came over the top of the filter. Q: Am I doing something wrong here?

Good luck on the next oil change - ah, if the little lady gives you her blessing to do so ;o)

 

How hard was it to get the factory filter off? I know on my '06 F150 it was next to impossible. Part of it was the angle that you had your arm at, but the main reason was that auto makers typically don't put any oil on the gasket before the filter is put in. I also think they tighten it a lot more than they have to. When I took that first filter off, there wasn't enough room to get a screwdriver in there and I almost twisted the filter in half.

I love where the filter is on the 6.7. I had to check my manual to make sure that was in fact the oil filter. I have never seen one so accessible.

 

Shooter, out of curiousity, when you spin off the oil filter, have you already drained and are empty of oil? Sounds like there is oil above the filter coming down into and overflowing?

 

Shooter -

There's a second layer of metal you have to punch through to completely drain the oil filter. I figured this out on my second oil change as well. When you punch a hole in the bottom of the filter, not much oil comes out. That is the first clue that the whole filter hasn't completely drained.

I use an awl because it is sharp and easily punches through both layers of metal. Then I kind of spin it around a bit to enlarge the holes. Takes an extra minute or two but it's much nicer to spin off the filter without having all that extra oil spilling over the gasket and down the filter like you described.

Also, I've discovered Nitrile gloves and love them. Really cut down on my need for Goop hand cleaner.

X-Large Nitrile Gloves - Pack of 100

 

Factory filter was on tight. I had a filter wrench and got it off. There was oil draining out the top of mine too. New one was put on hand tight. And yes, my pan was already empty.

 

Here's the drain pan I use:

Homer Bucket 5-Gallon Orange Homer Bucket - 05GLHD2 at The Home Depot

The lid is an additional $0.98

 

Even when you drain the oil from the pan, there is a good deal of oil remaining above the filter.

This process adds time to your oil change but I punctured a hole in the bottom of the oil filter and allowed it to drain for several minutes.
When the dripping nearly stopped, there was still enough oil when I removed the filter to make a small mess.
These filters hold at least a quart.

Prior to adding the new filter, I was able to fill it with a quart of fresh oil (again, adds a few extra minutes so it can soak in as you fill).
Then I added 12 quarts through the main fresh oil tube.

EDIT: For some reason I failed to read Epic's post. Even more helpful about the different layer.
Just ignore me!

 

That was a funny story! I got the clue from Epic's video that the oil flow could mimic the great Johnstown flood. I picked up one of those topless oil pans from Autozone.

Epic -- great tip on the filter.

 

Buckmasters, it was a bit difficult but not too bad. I like the accessibility of the filter also.

 

That's correct, I completely drained the pan first.