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Differences between 2000 5.4 v 1997 5.4 engine swap help.
Hey I just finished a swap into a 2000 e350 superduty and I am wondering what are the differences between the two. The truck runs but the o/d light is blinking and the speedometer doesn't work. The temperature gauge is also not working. I was wondering since the 2000 was pi heads v the 1997 non pi head do I need to find a different harness. I had sourced one from the junkyard already when I pulled the engine however it caused these problems. I would appreciate any help that would tell me what to do.
The o/d light and speedo not working are related. Sounds like the speed sensor is not hooked up. It is either in the tailshaft of the transmission (I think on the Ford) or the one in the rear differential.
The temp sensor is in the front area of the driver side head under the intake manifold I believe.
PI and non PI heads. I think it was 1998-1999 when the "Performance-Improved" PI heads replaced the older heads. They had better high lift flow I think.
PI and non PI heads. I think it was 1998-1999 when the "Performance-Improved" PI heads replaced the older heads. They had better high lift flow I think.
The PI head castings themselves are really worth nothing for power production over the NPI heads. The power gains are all from the cam, intake and PCM programming differences.
JL
Hey I just finished a swap into a 2000 e350 superduty and I am wondering what are the differences between the two. The truck runs but the o/d light is blinking and the speedometer doesn't work. The temperature gauge is also not working. I was wondering since the 2000 was pi heads v the 1997 non pi head do I need to find a different harness. I had sourced one from the junkyard already when I pulled the engine however it caused these problems. I would appreciate any help that would tell me what to do.
You can use your old harness no problem. The engines are externally identical-just use the original electronics and sensors on the newer engine so the PCM knows what's going on. Use the '97 PCM too-the pinouts are slightly different from year to year.
JL
I never cared for variable valve timing. With lots of work can the 2V heads be made to make as much torque up to 5,000. rpm as my 3V heads? When my motor is shot should I build a 2V or a 3V?
I never cared for variable valve timing. With lots of work can the 2V heads be made to make as much torque up to 5,000. rpm as my 3V heads? When my motor is shot should I build a 2V or a 3V?
VCT is an amazing system,and if tuned correctly, can give you gobs of power and much more fuel efficiency at light load than a fixed cam timing engine. It's a HUGE undertaking to convert the PCM,etc to allow you to run a 3v in the truck. You'd be much better off building a 2V. Although, If maintained properly, the modulars will last 300K+ miles without a major problem.
JL
edit..Forgot you have an '05-that's a 3V in that truck. Keep a 3V if you want to build a new one. stepping backward to a 2V would be going the wrong direction.
If you could have a 2V motor with variable-valve timing why would you want a 3V motor?
The 3V heads flow much more air because the ports are better, and the valves-while smaller-aren't shrouded as bad. There are no 2V VCT modulars, and they are so drastically different, you can't make a 2V VCT.
JL
Those tuners that have "pre-programmed canned" tunes in them are a best guess from the manufacturer and are not optimal for all trucks and drivers. Many times, they are actually farther from right than the OE tune was,but the premium fuel masks the problems with the tunes. Proper tuning methods are also not used by all of the tune device manufacturers either,and this can cause a myriad of issues that you can't see until there's a trans problem or other more serious issue. I've seen proper tuning with 87 octane vs "canned" tunes running 93 octane,and there was more power put to the wheels, and driving 100% better.
JL
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.