Nahhh, Nih Nih Nih Nahhh, Nih Nih Nih Nahhh, Nih Nih Nih Nahhh

 

Now that we all have decompressed and getting back to the 2 battery question. Are there any advantages in running the deep cycle batteries that are available. I run yellow top Optimas in my plow trucks. Needed in this truck's configuration?

Running snowplows for a number of years, I got very comfortable seeing my ammeter dancing. Will I see the same with my dual alternator setup?

I think you can see where I am headed with my questions. Should I pull my factory batteries for the deep cycle before next season?

 

just keep running factory or good parts store batteries. deep cycle are for stuff that runs without the alternator, like trolling motors, and winches if you plan on pulling lots with a dead engine

 

I previously stated that Deep Cycle batteries sacrifice high starting current for sustained voltage. That is why the are generally used for marine or situations where longer power durations are required. If you are have higher than average auxillary power you may benefit from a deep cycle power source however if you need maximum starting power you would benefit from a power source that is designed to release maximum power when it calls for it. You have to make that call but in my boat I run one starting battery and one deep cycle for each engine and draw auxillary voltage from the deep cycle. The difference here is that the boat electrical system has a isolator diode between them so if one battery is in a discharged state it will not draw the energy from the other. Auto manufacturers generally offer high output alternators to charge the batts up faster this way the starting current is always maximum and the batteries charge them up faster. Naturally can buy high current deep cycles but they also cost more. If you can find a deepie with the recommended CCA output you are certainly in the pink. Since the amount of power a battery is capable of storing is size related CCA's vs longer term sustained voltage will always be a trade off. If you have the room you can install larger batteries and you will benefit from the best of both worlds. In retrospect and based on your concerns I would look at a high output alternator.

 

Thanks for the additional insight. Always helpful. As it pertains to my scenario:

I have dual alternators in my F-250. I live in the St. Louis area, so it gets cold, but not like Dalton Highway (think Ice Road Truckers) Cold around here. If we see zero degrees raw temp, it is rare and never lasts.

So given that, and given my need to power some devices with the engine off from time to time, is the consensus that I would be ok in going with one deep, provided that the CCA is there? I am going to take a look at Optima Yellow now.

Thanks,

-Rob

 

You should always get two of the same exact batteries so that one doesn't discharge the other. Mixing with a direct connection (no isolator or combiner in between) is not advised. If you're only powering some devices from time to time with the engine off, you will be fine with regular starting batteries. Just get the batteries with the highest CCA's that will physically fit in the battery boxes and run 'em. With two alternators, you'll have the batteries recharged in no time. As long as your truck starts without having to crank extensively, you'll be fine.

 

If I were you (and anyone else who wants a deep cycle batt in their truck) I would copy what set up they use in fishing boats.

Good starter batts (factory or upgraded) remain the same. Then in a remote location you mount 1 or 2 deep cycle batts with a charge wire coming from the starter batteries. Just be DARNED sure to put an isolator in-line so you don't draw on the starter batts when the truck is not running (or ever really).

I think I would probably use an upfitter switch to power one of those "battery conditioner" things and keep the whole system independent of the engine batts.

Another idea, big time car audio places frequently install supplemental batteries to even out the draw of the big amplifiers on the vehicle's system. I'm sure they have some ways to "plug and play"

 

In my boat I've got the main starting battery, and then two dedicated to the stereo. In between is a combiner... any time the voltage is above 13.2 volts (engine running), the circuit closes, and allows both banks of batteries to charge. When the voltage is below 13.2 (engine off), the circuit is open, and the batteries remain separate. I can completely drain both stereo batteries and have no issue starting the boat.

I would do something like this in a truck if you REALLY needed to have separate batteries for some kind of high current draw. The difference between a truck and boat though is that it's usually a lot easier to jump start a truck than it is a boat, so it's usually not necessary to have a separate bank.

 

All good information. This is the first truck I have owned with a dual alternator setup. In my plow trucks I have heavy duty alternators and yellow top Optimas. I ran standard batteries prior to them and always would see a deep hit on the ammeter when moving the plow (obviously more so when I was near idle). When I switched over to the Optimas I did still see the dip but the accessories and lights did not dim like they did before.

When you plow you are spending a good portion of your time at low speeds, often lower rpms and moving the blade. I'm curious how the dual alternator setup will handle the heavy draw of the plow motor and all the lights I'm running.

 

For your scinaro, i would think not. If it is warm out and your truck is having a hard time cranking when the engine is warm, but spins up when it (the engine) is cold I would get an oil analis done, and see how your oil and rings are doing. It sounds like you are fighting increased cylander resistance when the engine is warm.... which is odd, bc it should all be very well lubed at that point.

 

If you vehicle starts normally cold and is harder to start when warm I would look at the starter. That was always the problem with the big block gas motors.

 

One cell goes bad, the bad one pulls the good one down, then the FICM goes bad and then you call a tow truck.
Oh wait, wrong truck, I was thinking about my old 6.tow. Sorry.

 

+1 on this, It happened on my backhoe... idk why I didnt think of it for your truck.

 

The hard starting when engine warm may be for a different reason. This is my first diesel truck and not sure if this is normal. Could the harder start when warm be related to something going on with the injectors?

 

I'm not going to read all the bickering....but just give my experiences.

I have a towing company, and do alot of roadside assistance calls...(boosting).

A diesel engine has to turn over fast in order to start, where as a gas engine will start if it will crank over very slowly.

The diesel will turn over fairly fast and NOT start...it has to turn over really fast.

My 2005 6.0h no, I had to change the batteries every two years. After about 18 months I would have to start charging the batteries to keep them topped up. When it started to turn over a bit slower.....NO START.

Always change out both batteries.

--
Gordon