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I've recently had two hot no starts with my truck about two months àpart and im going to be doing some AE tests soon. Im running dual iprs and im wondering when you unplug them do they default open or closed so I can check duty cycle and icp with them isolated. I didn't get much of a response in the sd section
Here's my thread has a little more info. I may even be wrong in thinking its hpop related. I still have the garbage grey cps so maybe its just a coincidence. Also I used to be able to peg my 35psi boost guage now im lucky to get 30. Im thinking the low boost, fuel mileage and smoke and no start are related but I could be wrong.
Nope only one has to go out for it to not work. Pressure is equalized before going to the heads so if one ipr stuck open or an oring went out it would bleed off pressure off the whole system. Im going to change the cps anyway but with all the other issues im not sure that's it. Just haven't had time to do it lately. Its pretty tight in the valley with both pumps so just trying to learn as much as I can before I dig into it
When you unplug the IPR, it should open all the way thus not allowing the HPOS to build pressure and the engine will die. So, since you have dual IPRs and it equalizes before going to the heads, the engine should shut down if you unplug one IPR..
When the next hot no start occurs , you will have to isolate each of the pumps (deadheading) with a gauge ,to figure out which one is the culprit...Might be difficult ( depending on how you have them set up) if they are inline ...
Thanks Travis and Rick. That's what I figured but I was hoping it'd be as simple as unplugging one and doing AE tests but things are never that simple for me lol. Yep they're inline. So hopefully the next no start happens in my driveway. Am I on the right track thinking all my probbems are oil related? So as duty cycle increases the pcm sends more voltage to the ipr causing it to close further? There must be springs in it pushing the plunger open right?
Right, as the need for more HPO rises, the PCM sends more voltage to the IPR solenoid, which pulls the IPR closed little by little. There are springs, needles, all sorts of crap in the IPR. LOL I think I'd concider trying out a remote IPR block so that you only have one IPR to worry about and if things like this happen, it's a bit easier to diagnose...
I'm curious how to you get it started just let it cool down?
Yes if in fact it is ipr orings hot oil is thinner and leaks past them losing oil pressure. If you wait the oil cools down causing it to become thicker and the orings seal enough to build enough pressure while cranking
I will do a remote ipr if I have to end up taking them out. We did them 7 years ago I was 16 and all I remember is we were up until 5am doing that diy kit so im hoping I don't have to take them out. I can get to the ipr toward the firewall but you can't even see the one toward the front.
I remembered right after I posted that you had the Stealth DIY kit.
The Dual IPR argument is funny if you find any threads where guys saying duals are better than singles.
Sounds like a nightmare of problems to me. If one goes bad, you gotta figure out which one it is, and yada yada.
I've never seen the stealth kit, only joeys.
I know joeys is super easy to remove.
The dual IPR setups look like a PITA to change. I've seen a few of them, just never worked on them. Like was already said, the one that faces toward the front can hardly be seen..
Ok more problems today. Came out of tsc wouldn't start. Waited 10 minutes started right up. Came out of the parking lot throttle wouldn't work just coasted and died. Changed cps no start. Pulled hpop plug it was low took about 16 oz to fill it up fired right up. Made it 15 minutes down the road running perfectly then all the sudden cruising about 45mph rpm wouldn't go above 2k slowly coasted and died. I get tach movement while cranking. No cel. Pulled chip no change. Took hpop plug out and it was down a little but not enough to cause a no start I don't think. Filled it up anyway still no start. Any thoughts?