95 e150 problems
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From: oklahoma
95 e150 problems
I have a 1995 e 150 has a fuel injected 300 six in it, Problem just started a week ago, when started in the morning it knocks or taps like it is out of oil for about five minutes or so. Then about thirty minutes into my daily drive the oil pressure gauge will peg to max engine light will come on and it starts to surge and run really rough I'm wondering is my oil pump going out or am I having some sort of computer problem?
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Sorry, been driving since early 60's but never had an opportunity to hear what any motor sounds like when "it is out of oil".
Presume it's filled w/correct amount of oil in good condition & shows normal pressure "for about five minutes"?
Presume by "engine light" you mean Check Engine Light "will come on" & realize that the OBD1 onboard diagnostics should 'throw a code' that can be read to reveal the fault?
If it was mine I'd take advantage of OBD1 & check for the fault code. Most parts stores will do this for free, while you wait, if you don't want to own one.
And I'd check the oil pressure sender wiring for shorts. The senders usually go bad by falsely showing low or no pressure, or leak. But abraded insulation on its wire, exposing conductor to ground, will peg gauge.
Presume by "engine light" you mean Check Engine Light "will come on" & realize that the OBD1 onboard diagnostics should 'throw a code' that can be read to reveal the fault?
If it was mine I'd take advantage of OBD1 & check for the fault code. Most parts stores will do this for free, while you wait, if you don't want to own one.
And I'd check the oil pressure sender wiring for shorts. The senders usually go bad by falsely showing low or no pressure, or leak. But abraded insulation on its wire, exposing conductor to ground, will peg gauge.
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From: oklahoma
the tapping seems to be in the valves, like it is taking a long time to get the oil up there. It is full of oil and yes shows normal oil pressure.the check engine light will only stay on for a short while, and never comes back on when shut off again been trying to get the codes read but check engine light will not cooperate. Will keep trying though
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Senior User
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From: oklahoma
Sorry, been driving since early 60's but never had an opportunity to hear what any motor sounds like when "it is out of oil".
Presume it's filled w/correct amount of oil in good condition & shows normal pressure "for about five minutes"?
Presume by "engine light" you mean Check Engine Light "will come on" & realize that the OBD1 onboard diagnostics should 'throw a code' that can be read to reveal the fault?
If it was mine I'd take advantage of OBD1 & check for the fault code. Most parts stores will do this for free, while you wait, if you don't want to own one.
And I'd check the oil pressure sender wiring for shorts. The senders usually go bad by falsely showing low or no pressure, or leak. But abraded insulation on its wire, exposing conductor to ground, will peg gauge.
Presume it's filled w/correct amount of oil in good condition & shows normal pressure "for about five minutes"?
Presume by "engine light" you mean Check Engine Light "will come on" & realize that the OBD1 onboard diagnostics should 'throw a code' that can be read to reveal the fault?
If it was mine I'd take advantage of OBD1 & check for the fault code. Most parts stores will do this for free, while you wait, if you don't want to own one.
And I'd check the oil pressure sender wiring for shorts. The senders usually go bad by falsely showing low or no pressure, or leak. But abraded insulation on its wire, exposing conductor to ground, will peg gauge.
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From: NY, NY
Like Club Wagon said, oil pressure gauge is a trouble-maker with these vans.
But your symptoms might really be related to a true oil pressure issue. Get a good oil gauge and measure the oil pressure at idle and 2500-3000 rpm. And do not drive the van until you know more what's going on.
But your symptoms might really be related to a true oil pressure issue. Get a good oil gauge and measure the oil pressure at idle and 2500-3000 rpm. And do not drive the van until you know more what's going on.
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From: oklahoma
currently not driving cut catylic converter off today did not help so its not a cloged converter did the self test on the eec under the hood all I could make out of it was codes for map/bp sensor, tps and act. Not sure where o2 sensor is on this vehical I looked in the exauhst pipe and saw nothing that looked like one to me( I have only changed one on a pontiac grand am though)
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From: oklahoma
found o2 sensor got it changed unfortunitly nothing with the van changed other than check engine light stays on runs really choppy especially under acceleration when ideling will surge occasionally always with a puff of black smoke which also is preasent under acceleration when the van is running rough(it spits and sputters)
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At the very least check the fuel pressure regulator. A common failure is for the vacuum diaphram to leak, permitting gas to be drawn into motor by vacuum. Pull the vacuum hose off FPR & see if it's got gas in it.
It's also easy enough to check what the fuel pressure is to confirm if the regulator is maintaining specified working pressure.
It's also easy enough to check what the fuel pressure is to confirm if the regulator is maintaining specified working pressure.
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From: oklahoma
Club Wagon I have never worked on one could you tell me where it is located so I don't mess with the wrong thing? What else could I check could throttle position sensor have anything to do with it?
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IMHO
I would suggest buying a service manual from Faxon Auto Literature. They are reasonably priced for original stuff. Link:Search
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