Howdy all,
I have a 73 f250 that I would like to put power windows in. Since the physical makeup of the doors is similar throughout most of the 70's, would it be safe to assume that a donor in this time frame would supply me with parts that would basically bolt and go? assuming of course that 30 years han't taken its toll on the parts. Also if anyone had any wiring genious to impart upon me regaurding this application (what exactly will be required) that also will be greatly appreciated.
thanx

 

I'm not sure but I don't believe that 70's Ford truck had power windows as an option.

 

That would make it more difficult, wouldn't it.
Any other Ideas for donors?
Basically, I'm looking to do this on the low dollar so the wife won't kill me. I'm not afraid of a little fabrication. Maybe large for car motors with a little tweaking in the rail setup?

 

You should be able to put in a later truck power regulator - that's what I did in this Bronco.

 

We have a user heer (Weldman) who did this very conversion to
his 78 which is the same as the 73 .
I think he did a great job with it.

He hangs out on the Ontario Chapter forum.

 

My first Ford Truck was a 1973 F250 XLT. It had power windows from the factory.
Look in a boneyard.

 

to the boneyard I go!
thanx guys!

I'll be back with wiring issues for these I'm sure.

 

73;

I converted my '86 F250 and used the motors out of a mid-70's LTD. I took all four so I had a couple of spares. Found the appropriate window regulators and it's still working, albeit I used one of the spare motors.

The power regulators are different from the crank-type, so you'll need those, but it seems all the motors are very similar, except for right and left. You'll need to drill out the factory mounting rivets and use 1/4" x 3/4" SS cap screws and nylock nuts to attach them to your doors.

When you get to the switch part, I used a set from an '89 Chev Van (they were free) and they covered the crank holes nicely. Make sure you get the wire harness for the switches as well. I didn't at first and the "crimped-on" wires kept falling off.

The second spare motor got used in my '95 F250........bolted right in.

The wiring is quite straight forward. I bench tested everything to find what went were, and then ran the power from the back of the cigarette lighter, which is hot all the time.

Hope this helps,

Rick

 

Rick:

That was the answer I was looking for, Thanks man.

By the way, thats not too much juice to pull from the lighter? I was under the impression that a relay/ fuse setup needed to be put in? If not yipee for me , less crap!

Thanks again

 

73;

I didn't even know relays existed when I did this conversion. I think the cigarette lighter/horn used a 15A fuse, and I'd put a 10A in-line fuse in the power feed.

Some of the other guys may have a different approach, but my neighbour bought the truck and it's still working as far as I know.

Having said that, I'd probably use a relay if I was to do it again, just to be on the safe side. There's lots of room under there to do what you need to do.

Good Luck,

Rick