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without the trac bar, or as some call it the panhard bar, there is nothing to center the axle in the truck and you will get wicked front end wander with the stoch front springs setup due to the front spring shaccles mounting inside the frame.
my track bar is not long enough because of the 6 inch lift.I was thinkin of makin a plate that drops down where the bar mounts 2 the frame. what shoud the angle be on the bar? like the same as the steering links the leveler the better?
Last edited by badass1234; May 4, 2011 at 11:03 AM.
Reason: delete
without the trac bar, or as some call it the panhard bar, there is nothing to center the axle in the truck and you will get wicked front end wander with the stoch front springs setup due to the front spring shaccles mounting inside the frame.
the reason i did put the trac bar on is because it was not long enough and the angle is really steep due 2 the 6inch lift. I was thinking of makin a plate that drops down from where the bar mounts 2 the truck? or whould it be better 2 lengthen the bar??if i do the plate i can get a better angle on the bar??
Most of the F350 lift kits I have seen use a drop bracket to lower the track bar to stock geometry. The D44 TTB compared to a D60 monobeam... the D60 is much stronger.
Most of the F350 lift kits I have seen use a drop bracket to lower the track bar to stock geometry. The D44 TTB compared to a D60 monobeam... the D60 is much stronger.
the reason i did put the trac bar on is because it was not long enough and the angle is really steep due 2 the 6inch lift. I was thinking of makin a plate that drops down from where the bar mounts 2 the truck? or whould it be better 2 lengthen the bar??if i do the plate i can get a better angle on the bar??
you should get a 6 inch drop bracket for the trac bar if you have a 6 inch lift.
the trac bar should be even with the steering linkage for proper geometry.
Was there something else changed the the 89 that factory parts wouldnt work?
they actually rode pretty good, since i also did "H" shackle conversions on them as part of the D-60 swap.
the money i saved on F-250's more than offset the cost increase of the F-250's, and at the time i was getting wrecked 350's for $500 average price to use as donors.
they actually rode pretty good, since i also did "H" shackle conversions on them as part of the D-60 swap.
the money i saved on F-250's more than offset the cost increase of the F-250's, and at the time i was getting wrecked 350's for $500 average price to use as donors.
I am curios as to why the 350 d-shaft didnt work. because in reality, you built F350s but a f350 shaft didnt work
never payed too much attention to it, the 250 shaft worked, and has been in that truck for over 20 years now.
these were the blocker trucks we used for my heavy equipment escort service..
Thanks for all the replies! I have decided to take my truck off the road and maybe do a minor frame up rebuild. I want reliable transportation and don't want to worry about extended down time as a daily driver. So for now I am searching for 30 mpg car and then I will begin to make the truck I have wanted for several years.
I have a question i completed the hole swap everything went well i cut two inches out of the front drive shaft to make it fit . only thing now is im getting a clunking noise coming from what seems to be the t-case area wear the front shaft is there is no visual of anything hitting PLEASE HELP Jon williamsjon80@yahoo.com
when you cut 2" off the front shaft did you get the u-joints phased back correctly ?
the u-joints are probably bad as now the front shaft is running at a different angle than it did with the TTB front !
there is very little movement , compression rebound , of the front shaft with a TTB
u-joints can become galded and will only clunk when there is enough torque put on them as when the shaft is turning !
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