dreaded popping noise from front end, woohoo!
#1
dreaded popping noise from front end, woohoo!
I've been noticing a popping noise from the front end for about 1 1/2 months, but never really took the time to check it until tonight. Mind you I don't drive my truck much, so I just didn't worry about it much. Well, I jacked up the driver's side, took ahold of the wheel, no side to side movement. Thought huh, that's not it. Then I tried up and down. BEHOLD, lots of movement! Guess it's time for some new wheel bearing assemblies. The bad part is when we were in Branson about a month ago and had the tire issues, I asked the tire shop to check the front end for any issues. Guess wheel bearing assemblies don't count there since I know it was bad prior to that. Anyway, thanks for reading and any input is as always welcome.
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#8
OK. I just wondered because I had a new bearing ready to go in and when I got it on the stands and got the wheels off, I had to jump in the father-in-law's truck and go get ball joints. Good news was, I saved about $200. It did go from a 2 hour job to 14 hours. I had ALL kinds of trouble with mine (mostly my fault).
#9
Ball joints since you only had up and down movement. If the hub was bad, you could wobble that sucker any direction. When my ball joints went, I'd get the loud pop/clunk when braking hard. To check them without help, get a pry and pry between the steering knuckle where the ball joint goes through and the part on the axle. You'll see movement if they're bad.
#10
Ok, folks, here is what I found so far. Jack up driver side. Push on bottom of tire with my foot from underneath the truck. There is a small amount of movement in the bottom ball joint. Can't really see movement on the top one, but it looks like a pain to get out and replace. So for now I definitely can tell the bottom will need replaced since it has some movement. I'm gonna go search threads now for what brand and a write-up, cause I know there will be one. Thanks
#11
Both
You want to change both the upper and lowers at the same time, you can do just the drivers side, or just the passenger, but you want to change both when you do it.
It isn't a bad job, let me find a link to some of my notes when I did mine.
Edit: Linky https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...placement.html
It isn't a bad job, let me find a link to some of my notes when I did mine.
Edit: Linky https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...placement.html
#12
I've been looking at threads also. Tie rod ends need replaced, but have not checked ball joints yet, 14° here last night. Lots of good info in racerguys therad here, and there are many others.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ll-joints.html
Moog seems like a popular choice, but came across many having steering wheel return to center problems with Moog joints binding. Also seems Spicer is now Raybestos.
There was also a link to a snap-on tool for hub removal, looked slick. Good luck, and let us know what you decide.
http://image.snapon.com/international/pdf/fhp1_npa.pdf
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ll-joints.html
Moog seems like a popular choice, but came across many having steering wheel return to center problems with Moog joints binding. Also seems Spicer is now Raybestos.
There was also a link to a snap-on tool for hub removal, looked slick. Good luck, and let us know what you decide.
http://image.snapon.com/international/pdf/fhp1_npa.pdf
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#15
I've been reading some more, and seems like many guys are happy with the XRF brand of ball and tie rod joints. The attached link was where recommended to purchase from. Anybody here have any experience with this brand? Thanks.
Buy Discount Performance Tires at The Tire Club | Toyo | Bridgestone | Firestone
Buy Discount Performance Tires at The Tire Club | Toyo | Bridgestone | Firestone