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For the most accurate reading i tap into the plug on the thermostat housing (if so equipped) placing the sending unit here not only provides the most accurate coolant temps, but also allows the factory sending unit to remain intact so the dash gauge still works.
I just put my bulb unit in the front of the block(335 series) where the stock one was. Might install the factory one in the t-stat housing just for S and G's. I also mounted mine on the lip just under the ashtray.
I used autometer electric gauges and mounted them in the a three pod under the dash here,s a pic
They came with there own sending units . My factory gauges just weren't that good .
akforceten - I am uninstalling an aftermarket gauge setup in my 78 so I can return to the factory gauges, but am uncertain what the factory wiring looked like. All I have that I can see is the coiled metal wire that goes from the temp sending unit to the aftermarket gauge. I tried taking it off at the gauge end, but it's a permanent fixture. Any thoughts?
That coiled metal wire coming from the aftermarket gauge is not removable from the gauge . This is known as a mechanical gauge . The one in my truck came with a sending unit that I installed into the intake manifold. It has a one wire hookup. It is very accurate. The factory gauge will be electric and have a sending unit with one wire hookup. I cant remember the color of the factory wire for the temp . but it should still be there. you will need to get a factory sending unit too if your going back to stock.
i have a 400 and there was a plug in the water pump i removed and installed the sending unit in that. so far i am very happy with it as it seems i am getting a pretty decent reading. i am running temps between 200 and 210 with a 195 stat. a little higher then i would like but who's to say the gauge is 100 percent accurate. my stock gauge reads normal. btw i am also running auto meter.
i have a 400 and there was a plug in the water pump i removed and installed the sending unit in that. so far i am very happy with it as it seems i am getting a pretty decent reading. i am running temps between 200 and 210 with a 195 stat. a little higher then i would like but who's to say the gauge is 100 percent accurate. my stock gauge reads normal. btw i am also running auto meter.
Agree. There is usually another tapped hole on the water pump. Lots cheaper to use that instead of buying a bunch of hose adapters or tapping the tstat housing
i have a 400 and there was a plug in the water pump i removed and installed the sending unit in that. so far i am very happy with it as it seems i am getting a pretty decent reading. i am running temps between 200 and 210 with a 195 stat. a little higher then i would like but who's to say the gauge is 100 percent accurate. my stock gauge reads normal. btw i am also running auto meter.
I have a 360 but am finding my truck runs the same temps with the 195 in it. I installed the autometer gauge 2 weeks ago. the stock gauge says normal, and most of the time it seems my truck is running around 205. my sending unit is installed in the thermostat housing, not the water pump.
I've read that you shouldn't install a temperature gauge or fan switch in the water pump, because the coolant in this path has just exited the radiator, and is a little cooler than the coolant in the rest of the block.
However, on my straight 6, I have my temperature gauge at the original sending unit location (passenger side of block near the back) and my fan switch in the water pump. I notice that when my electric fan kicks on, the temperature on the gauge is the exact turn-on temperature of the switch. So at least on my setup, the water pump temperature correlates with the temperature at the back of the block. However, since a straight 6 is quite different to begin with, maybe the concept doesn't apply to V8's.
As MH said, though, the most accurate spot is definitely the thermostat housing. After all, the temperature at this point is what gates the thermostat in the first place. You will also notice that this is often the place where the factory taps for ported vacuum switches (PVS) for the same reason. If you have a wet manifold (like on a 302), the intake is also a great spot as pointed out by akforceten. In either case, the idea is to grab the temperature before the coolant exits to the upper radiator hose and into the radiator to be cooled down.