High Idle, Bogging down
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Joined: Apr 2011
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High Idle, Bogging down
Hi everyone, I'm new to the forum. I just bought a 95 f150 5.0L 2wd. When it's cold, the idle is very high and it runs rough. After it warms, the idle tends to calm down and the engine runs even worse, especially at around 30-40mph, or in OD.
Continuous memory had codes 332 and 334. Both the egr and position sensor have been replaced. As well as the vacuum solenoid and ports into the intake have been cleaned.
When I changed the wires and plugs (swapped out bosch super pluses for motorcraft copper) I noticed that 3 of them were fouled and 1 was oil fouled.
When the truck is allowed to excessively idle, a bluish white oily smelling cloud starts to seep out of the air pump check valve area of the engine bay, and out of the tailpipe in large amount.
Sorry I wrote so much, I just wanted to be as detailed as I can. Anyone run into something like this before? Thanks.
Continuous memory had codes 332 and 334. Both the egr and position sensor have been replaced. As well as the vacuum solenoid and ports into the intake have been cleaned.
When I changed the wires and plugs (swapped out bosch super pluses for motorcraft copper) I noticed that 3 of them were fouled and 1 was oil fouled.
When the truck is allowed to excessively idle, a bluish white oily smelling cloud starts to seep out of the air pump check valve area of the engine bay, and out of the tailpipe in large amount.
Sorry I wrote so much, I just wanted to be as detailed as I can. Anyone run into something like this before? Thanks.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,698
Likes: 47
From: Mexico, Missouri
Welcome to FTE!
Noticed that no one got back to you on this post, so I'll pitch in a coupe of ideas.
More than likley, valve guide seals are worn, and that's your bluish smoke from tailpipe. That could also explain the oil fouled plug. This would be a good time for a compresion test. that will give you definate #'s for all cylinders and general overall health. Your looking at maybe $100 for head work and maybe around $200-$300 completely for new everything from head's and up. (New gaskets, etc) It's not bad, if the motor is in good shape.
Get a compression check and let us know. The tool is available perhaps for rent, if not spend $40 and it's yours for life.
Hope this helps.
Noticed that no one got back to you on this post, so I'll pitch in a coupe of ideas.
More than likley, valve guide seals are worn, and that's your bluish smoke from tailpipe. That could also explain the oil fouled plug. This would be a good time for a compresion test. that will give you definate #'s for all cylinders and general overall health. Your looking at maybe $100 for head work and maybe around $200-$300 completely for new everything from head's and up. (New gaskets, etc) It's not bad, if the motor is in good shape.
Get a compression check and let us know. The tool is available perhaps for rent, if not spend $40 and it's yours for life.
Hope this helps.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,538
Likes: 54
From: Des Moines
Too much detail is never a problem here. Usually with newer members it's a lack of detail. Basically, the more information you can provide us with, the better we can help you.
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gtex
FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428)
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Jan 11, 2006 04:19 PM
