Hub Assembly
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Pearland TX
You don't really need to pull the axle out if you are just replacing the hub. Although if the seals are leaking it won't hurt while you are there. The seals are not reusable so if you pull the axle go ahead and fork out the doe for ball joints and stronger u-joints too.
Suggestions:
*Take out the ABS connection in the back of the hub. Then get some mean green axle grease and a grease gun. Put it to the hole and hold it tight, pump the new axle grease into the hub and flush all of the old grease out. The ABS sensor in the hub works on the same principle as the cam or crank sensor and the grease won't hurt it. You can also repack or replace the spindle (needle) bearing if you pull the hub.
*If you don't have the special tool, lay the tire flat on the ground (inside up) and put the hub into the rim. Then take the new seal and the axle, push the seal on a little and make sure it is square. Use the back side of the hub and the axle as a slide hammer and pound the seal onto the axle. The drive side is harder because the axle is shorter, but just make sure your strokes are straight and the seal is going on straight. Same principle as the special tool, just a different solution to the problem.
Suggestions:
*Take out the ABS connection in the back of the hub. Then get some mean green axle grease and a grease gun. Put it to the hole and hold it tight, pump the new axle grease into the hub and flush all of the old grease out. The ABS sensor in the hub works on the same principle as the cam or crank sensor and the grease won't hurt it. You can also repack or replace the spindle (needle) bearing if you pull the hub.
*If you don't have the special tool, lay the tire flat on the ground (inside up) and put the hub into the rim. Then take the new seal and the axle, push the seal on a little and make sure it is square. Use the back side of the hub and the axle as a slide hammer and pound the seal onto the axle. The drive side is harder because the axle is shorter, but just make sure your strokes are straight and the seal is going on straight. Same principle as the special tool, just a different solution to the problem.
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Sorry took me so long to post. These were the numbers I used on my 04 when the auto hub would not engage due to a bad seal & worn knuckle seal.
Dealer
kunckle seal F81Z-3254-CB
inner thrust washer (notched) F81Z-4228-BA
outer thrush washer pack F81Z-3B458-AA
hub bearing assembly yellow o-ring F81Z-4A322-AA
Advance auto
axle seal, National 710413
needle bearing (stubaxle), Motor City B2110
Dealer
kunckle seal F81Z-3254-CB
inner thrust washer (notched) F81Z-4228-BA
outer thrush washer pack F81Z-3B458-AA
hub bearing assembly yellow o-ring F81Z-4A322-AA
Advance auto
axle seal, National 710413
needle bearing (stubaxle), Motor City B2110
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Did my bearings/hub last week. If you buy the National brand bearing look around before you give Advanced Auto $330. I found mine myautopartswholesaledotcom for $230. National Part #515056, includes new o-ring/abs sensor and 4 studs....but I have an 04 so your part is probably different. Pretty easy once you do one side...if you have to do the other it goes even faster the second time around
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
From: Manitoba,Canada
Did my bearings/hub last week. If you buy the National brand bearing look around before you give Advanced Auto $330. I found mine myautopartswholesaledotcom for $230. National Part #515056, includes new o-ring/abs sensor and 4 studs....but I have an 04 so your part is probably different. Pretty easy once you do one side...if you have to do the other it goes even faster the second time around
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Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,192
Likes: 0
From: Kerrville, Tx
great so i have to get them from ford? thats gonna hurt! thanks for the info so far. not going to be able to do it for a couple of weeks being that airdog took a crap so sent that off and next weekend i have family plans so cant do it then either
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
pjnadon,
Hard to tell without me looking at it & don't know what changed from my 04 to your 05, but you may not need the locking hub. You may just need the knuckle seal assembly behind the wheel bearing assembly.
My hub did not want to disengage when locked in manually & then unlocked.It also would not work at all in auto mode. It would make all kinds of noise when driving. The knuckle seal is actually more than just a seal. It keeps the stub axle centered in the knuckle on the u-joint side. I was suprised to find after tearing everything apart that there was nothing wrong with my locking hub after all the noise it made.
Someone had removed the seal and tried to reuse it. They had used some sort of punch all around the edge & pretty much distroyed it. This is why the required tool or a home made floor flange pipe set up it required to install it. Also my yellow o-ring was pinch and in 3 pieces. Hubs work good as new now in auto mode.
Your mechanic said it sounded like a bearing assembly.
Have you tried jacking the truck up and checking for bearing assembly play?
Put your hands on the tire at 12:00 & 6:00 and check for movement or noise?
Hard to tell without me looking at it & don't know what changed from my 04 to your 05, but you may not need the locking hub. You may just need the knuckle seal assembly behind the wheel bearing assembly.
My hub did not want to disengage when locked in manually & then unlocked.It also would not work at all in auto mode. It would make all kinds of noise when driving. The knuckle seal is actually more than just a seal. It keeps the stub axle centered in the knuckle on the u-joint side. I was suprised to find after tearing everything apart that there was nothing wrong with my locking hub after all the noise it made.
Someone had removed the seal and tried to reuse it. They had used some sort of punch all around the edge & pretty much distroyed it. This is why the required tool or a home made floor flange pipe set up it required to install it. Also my yellow o-ring was pinch and in 3 pieces. Hubs work good as new now in auto mode.
Your mechanic said it sounded like a bearing assembly.
Have you tried jacking the truck up and checking for bearing assembly play?
Put your hands on the tire at 12:00 & 6:00 and check for movement or noise?
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,192
Likes: 0
From: Kerrville, Tx
had the truck in the air because i though maybe there was a chance it was the already warped rotor on the drivers side. so i replaced that and spun everything and sounded good. no wierd noises. put tire back on and drove it and the noise was still there. but the odd thing is when you press the brake petal it goes away. might here a slight noise but it is pretty much gone. if your on the brakes and listening for it you can here it ever so slightly but if not listening for it while on brakes then you dont here it. my girlfriend who doesnt know anything about trucks heard it the other day while driving so i know its getting bad if she hears it
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
From: Manitoba,Canada
pjnadon,
Hard to tell without me looking at it & don't know what changed from my 04 to your 05, but you may not need the locking hub. You may just need the knuckle seal assembly behind the wheel bearing assembly.
My hub did not want to disengage when locked in manually & then unlocked.It also would not work at all in auto mode. It would make all kinds of noise when driving. The knuckle seal is actually more than just a seal. It keeps the stub axle centered in the knuckle on the u-joint side. I was suprised to find after tearing everything apart that there was nothing wrong with my locking hub after all the noise it made.
Someone had removed the seal and tried to reuse it. They had used some sort of punch all around the edge & pretty much distroyed it. This is why the required tool or a home made floor flange pipe set up it required to install it. Also my yellow o-ring was pinch and in 3 pieces. Hubs work good as new now in auto mode.
Your mechanic said it sounded like a bearing assembly.
Have you tried jacking the truck up and checking for bearing assembly play?
Put your hands on the tire at 12:00 & 6:00 and check for movement or noise?
Hard to tell without me looking at it & don't know what changed from my 04 to your 05, but you may not need the locking hub. You may just need the knuckle seal assembly behind the wheel bearing assembly.
My hub did not want to disengage when locked in manually & then unlocked.It also would not work at all in auto mode. It would make all kinds of noise when driving. The knuckle seal is actually more than just a seal. It keeps the stub axle centered in the knuckle on the u-joint side. I was suprised to find after tearing everything apart that there was nothing wrong with my locking hub after all the noise it made.
Someone had removed the seal and tried to reuse it. They had used some sort of punch all around the edge & pretty much distroyed it. This is why the required tool or a home made floor flange pipe set up it required to install it. Also my yellow o-ring was pinch and in 3 pieces. Hubs work good as new now in auto mode.
Your mechanic said it sounded like a bearing assembly.
Have you tried jacking the truck up and checking for bearing assembly play?
Put your hands on the tire at 12:00 & 6:00 and check for movement or noise?
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
From: Manitoba,Canada
had the truck in the air because i though maybe there was a chance it was the already warped rotor on the drivers side. so i replaced that and spun everything and sounded good. no wierd noises. put tire back on and drove it and the noise was still there. but the odd thing is when you press the brake petal it goes away. might here a slight noise but it is pretty much gone. if your on the brakes and listening for it you can here it ever so slightly but if not listening for it while on brakes then you dont here it. my girlfriend who doesnt know anything about trucks heard it the other day while driving so i know its getting bad if she hears it
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
The site I mentioned in my last reply shows a National (Federal-Mogul) part#515081 for the replacement Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly for about $370 for your truck (06 F350 4WD SRW). Free shipping. Not sure if that is your whole problem or not, but I thought I would let you know before you considered getting ripped at the dealership. If you find that you do need to replace the hub/bearing unit and you do end up going through the site I mentioned I have a 15% off promotion code that should work.