10 DTC's; what do the codes mean?
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,504
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
Those three sensors are incorporated into the accelerator pedal itself.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,871
Likes: 3,592
OP - From the 6.0L bible, here is a simplified diagram:
http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_h.../Page_049.html
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Sorry, double posted the last one after I edited it a bit at the bottom.
I added; I know the battery voltage is a bit low now from repeated starts, key on-key off, and not being able to run, etc. It was fine when it happened. I have unhooked the batteries tonight and have the batteries charging. They were down to about 40%.
I unhooked the wiring to the pedal and it all looked good. I followed the wires up as far as I could and they looked fine.
Is it a bad pedal assembly? Or is a short causing all this? If so, how can I find it? What's my next step?
I added; I know the battery voltage is a bit low now from repeated starts, key on-key off, and not being able to run, etc. It was fine when it happened. I have unhooked the batteries tonight and have the batteries charging. They were down to about 40%.
I unhooked the wiring to the pedal and it all looked good. I followed the wires up as far as I could and they looked fine.
Is it a bad pedal assembly? Or is a short causing all this? If so, how can I find it? What's my next step?
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,504
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
Based on the the three readings of the APP highlighted in BOLD RED in my previous post, I doubt that there is anything wrong with the pedal itself (but I could be wrong), but rather something else that is causing the decreased V-Ref voltage reading that's causing your issue. I would start by uplugging three wire sensors until accelerator pedal control of engine speed is restored as a start, beginning with your EBP sensor first, to be followed by the ICP sensor and then the fan clutch connector and so on.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 803
Likes: 1
From: S CAL
I have a neighbor who had a similiar problem after washing the engine compart down with a hose. It did not show up until a day later. It turned out to be a connector under the hood that had water in it. He thought it was his accelerator pedal so I let him take the one out of my truck and try it on his and found out that was not the problem. That is when he started checking under the hood.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2007
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Based on the the three readings of the APP highlighted in BOLD RED in my previous post, I doubt that there is anything wrong with the pedal itself (but I could be wrong), but rather something else that is causing the decreased V-Ref voltage reading that's causing your issue. I would start by uplugging three wire sensors until accelerator pedal control of engine speed is restored as a start, beginning with your EBP sensor first, to be followed by the ICP sensor and then the fan clutch connector and so on.
So should I unplug one at a time, then try to start it?
Do I reconnect each one if it doesn't change anything and go on to the next one?
Thanks
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,103
Likes: 32
From: AB/BC
DTS Common 6.0L Wiring Problems here are some common spots that the harness chafes.Yes you need to disconnect the sensors one at a time.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2007
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Couldn't find anything.
I unplugged all the sensors I could find one at a time. No change.
The only thing different was that when I redonnected the batteries this morning after charging them, only the wrench light was on. No check engine light.
That's the same as when it first happened. Then the check engine light came on after I started unhooking everything.
I unplugged all the sensors I could find one at a time. No change.
The only thing different was that when I redonnected the batteries this morning after charging them, only the wrench light was on. No check engine light.
That's the same as when it first happened. Then the check engine light came on after I started unhooking everything.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2007
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The dealership took it in and had it there for 5 days. They replaced the throttle pedal assembly. It cost around $700. It worked fine for a couple months, then it started doing it again.
It would randomly go into idle and nothing else. I could drive it at 3 mph and if I shut it off and started it it would often go back to normal.
Then one day it left me stranded out of town with the same problem.
My dealership wouldn't cover it even though it was the exact same problem they "fixed". Said I would have to tow it back and start a new bill.
That was until I contacted Ford customer care. The dealership suddenly took it in right away instead of the 2 week wait they said it would be. Had it back the next day. No charge. Said bring it back if anything goes wrong.
Ends up it was a corroded connector somewhere.
It would randomly go into idle and nothing else. I could drive it at 3 mph and if I shut it off and started it it would often go back to normal.
Then one day it left me stranded out of town with the same problem.
My dealership wouldn't cover it even though it was the exact same problem they "fixed". Said I would have to tow it back and start a new bill.
That was until I contacted Ford customer care. The dealership suddenly took it in right away instead of the 2 week wait they said it would be. Had it back the next day. No charge. Said bring it back if anything goes wrong.
Ends up it was a corroded connector somewhere.
2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 2
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having the same problem! What connector was it?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,871
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What year engine do you have? It could be one of the mid harness connectors (12 way connector mentioned in post #11).
Sometimes there is a correlation between these codes and the EBP sensor. That can be tested by disconnecting the EBP sensor.
Best to provide codes and readings like the OP did - if you really want to solve the issue. It is a good chance your issue isn't EXACTLY like the OPs.
Verbalizing (in writing) your exact symptoms might help also.
Sometimes there is a correlation between these codes and the EBP sensor. That can be tested by disconnecting the EBP sensor.
Best to provide codes and readings like the OP did - if you really want to solve the issue. It is a good chance your issue isn't EXACTLY like the OPs.
Verbalizing (in writing) your exact symptoms might help also.