1995 F350 Brake Bleeding Problem
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1995 F350 Brake Bleeding Problem
'95 F350 with rear ABS only.
Replaced front calipers with Cardone remans. Bled with buddy system until no bubbles, pedal is hard. Turn on truck and pedal becomes very soft eventually going to the floor. Removed front brake line from master cylinder and plugged the MC port and pedal becomes as hard as a rock with engine off or on so MC appears to be good indicating there is still some air trapped in the front hydrolics somewhere.
Anybody have any ideas on how I can get the air out of the system and get this pedal to harden up? I'm using ATE Super Blue brake fluid.
Thanks in advance for any help-
Replaced front calipers with Cardone remans. Bled with buddy system until no bubbles, pedal is hard. Turn on truck and pedal becomes very soft eventually going to the floor. Removed front brake line from master cylinder and plugged the MC port and pedal becomes as hard as a rock with engine off or on so MC appears to be good indicating there is still some air trapped in the front hydrolics somewhere.
Anybody have any ideas on how I can get the air out of the system and get this pedal to harden up? I'm using ATE Super Blue brake fluid.
Thanks in advance for any help-
The village idiot.
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,126
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From: Southern WV
Welcome to FTE.
Did you just bleed the front? Start with the farthest one away from the master cylinder?
Air could have worked it's way into the rear lines through the proportioning valve. I'd bleed all four corners, starting with the farthest away and working your way to the closest.
Keep bleeding them, there's air in there somewhere.
Did you just bleed the front? Start with the farthest one away from the master cylinder?
Air could have worked it's way into the rear lines through the proportioning valve. I'd bleed all four corners, starting with the farthest away and working your way to the closest.
Keep bleeding them, there's air in there somewhere.
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Thanks for the input guys. The bleeders are at the top of the calipers.
I'll hit it again today. Maybe bribing my wife with dinner out tonight will keep her in the cab exercising her left leg.
I have a MityVac 8000 I think it is, but whenever I crack the bleeder it just sucks air from around the threads. The pedal pump method seems to push the most fluid.
Thanks again-
I'll hit it again today. Maybe bribing my wife with dinner out tonight will keep her in the cab exercising her left leg.
I have a MityVac 8000 I think it is, but whenever I crack the bleeder it just sucks air from around the threads. The pedal pump method seems to push the most fluid.
Thanks again-
The village idiot.
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 1
From: Southern WV
No not really. You can get it fairly close by bleeding it through the brake line itself but you'll still most likely have air in the caliper. It would be good enough if you need to go after parts or whatever but I wouldn't leave it that way.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 117
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From: West Va
Im gonna try to use an easy out to get the bleeder screw out....that way i can be sure of the air being out...thanx
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
small pipe wrench or chanell locks might work
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 117
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From: West Va
Its hard to get in behind the backing plate with channel locks or even vise grips...hopefully the easy out will work because im not looking forward to the axle just to get the backing plate off to make it easier to remove the.bleeder.screw
