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Edelbrock help needed

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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 11:16 PM
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Edelbrock help needed

I have a 1403 Edelbrock. It was running good, no problems, but I wanted to try a step leaner, so I pulled the top off, followed the book. When I got it back together it ran bad. I tried to adjust the mix, but could not get it to slow the idle. Suspected v.leak and checked. It ran rough still, and too fast.

Finally I changed it back, and it still ran bad. Is there something I'm missing? Can someone offer a tip here?

Thx.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 12:05 AM
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So you pulled the top cover to swap jets? Or just removed the rod covers?

Not much could have gotten screwed up, given the cover is just a cover and doesn't effect the mixture.

However, since the cover contains the floats and seats I would suspect something is the cause in that particular area. Re-check the floats, float pins and that the needle and seats are opertaing ok.

May need to to remove the floats and seats and check the screens for crud. Check the fuel inlet screen as well.

I wouldn't be too converned with the jets, boosters or accelerator pump unless you notice a bunch of crap in the bottom of the bowls.

Josh
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Bullitt390
So you pulled the top cover to swap jets? Or just removed the rod covers?

Not much could have gotten screwed up, given the cover is just a cover and doesn't effect the mixture.

However, since the cover contains the floats and seats I would suspect something is the cause in that particular area. Re-check the floats, float pins and that the needle and seats are opertaing ok.

May need to to remove the floats and seats and check the screens for crud. Check the fuel inlet screen as well.

I wouldn't be too converned with the jets, boosters or accelerator pump unless you notice a bunch of crap in the bottom of the bowls.

Josh
There was just some slight fine grit in the bottom of the bowls. Thx. I'll ck the floats, etc. Yeah, I was pretty surprised since it was such a simple r&r.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 02:27 PM
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I let the problem stew over night. After my morning coffee, it occurred to me that if the carb wouldn't adjust with the idle screw, then there had to be a vacuum leak. #1 problem with carbs. So I bought new base gaskets and attacked it again.

Called Edelbrock and will drive out there today to pick up kit #1473, for $17.99, to replace one stinking fast idle linkage...and I'm happy to pay it.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 07:06 PM
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I changed the gaskets, set the timing, found a plug wire that was shorting on the head, did the mix, and then started playing with the jets and metering rods.

The primaries didn't want to run well any leaner than one step leaner than original setting the carb came with: .086" with the 67X55 m.rod. But the secondaries!!! Holy Crap! I've created a monster! lol Before the engine would wind out in each gear, and right before a/trans would shift, the secondaries would kick in, then boom, shift.

With the secondaries I dropped more than three steps lean! Using a .086 jet, from a .095, and also a leaner rod, the same one as the primaries. That worked good, but the same last second opening of the secondaries. So I swapped in a stiffer spring on the s. metering rod, and holy Crap! I was blown away the first run. Now it feels so much faster. I really think it is quicker than my poorly turned 2v 390! My I6 is every bit as fast as a sbc!! I can't even tell when the secondaries open, just smooth hard acceleration!

Now I want to go hunt for that Camry that killed me on the onramp that time. I feel like an eighteen-year-old with his first hot rod.!!!

The purpose of the carb mod was to move in the direction of economy...and I think that objective is now in the rear mirror. It is also a kick to feel the highly modded C6 shift. It feels like my 6 year-old son is playing soccer, and he kicks the shifter--wham! I never thought that dialing in the carb could make all the mods on engine and trans come alive!!
 
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