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Originally posted by lxman1 CK, I have added a photo of the tranny cooler on my 77 F150.
Check the 2nd 77 set of pictures in my gallery. And as far as tranny coolers go, Bigger is always better. The cooler a tranny runs, the longer it will last. Jimmy
Did you have to drill holes or anything or was their already spots for you to screw into to mount it?
Chad, You know how a zip tie works?
Imagine a zip tie with a round piece of plastic about the size of loony on one end. You slip the tie part through the vanes of the tranny cooler then through the rad and slip the keeper onto the zip tie >slide it until it's tight then snip of the extra.You do this 4 times > Done
Last edited by Torque1st; Mar 24, 2003 at 09:50 PM.
Yeah, like he said. It comes with the attatching straps that go thru the radiator and has foam pads to keep from damaging the radiator. Pretty simple install really. Just follow the directions and you should have it installed in less than an hour.
Jimmy
Now off to the bodywork forum to see if their is some tips for a guy who cant weld to fix his salty trucks cab (oh the woes of ontario) Sad thing is it was restored in 98 poorly. bah.
Anyway thats for another thread.
Thanks guys I'll pick it up when I get paid this week and tell you guys how I made out on the install + the new tranny lines I need to install. shouldn't be to hard eh? Then I can get my flush and my small block c6 should be running really nice =) Maybe I can get some better fuel milage with the new fluid (current is "burnt" as mechanic friend put it) and maybe a new fuel filter + air filter =)
Just remember that you only cut the return line to the transmission not both or the other one.
The cooler line is in series with the bottom of rad cooler tank.
Be sure to use a metal tubing cutter about 4-5" away from the connection coupler to the rad.Slide at least 3" of hose over the line & put 2 <a href="http://motorhaven.autoanything.com/">hose clamp</a>s on each end of the hose.
Ok well i have the tranny cooler (got a pretty big one to) cost me 95$CAD before my discount.
Now, two questions:
Does anyone know which line will be the return line etc; for sure? Or am I going to have to disconnect and crank like instructions say?
(I have a SB c6)
And second Dennis you said to put two hose clamps on each end, and the instructions have giant warning letters saying DO NOT PUT 2 HOSE CLAMPS ON EACH END
Now I trust you, so can you tell me why to ignore these?
The instructions that came with mine said to do this. With the engine COLD, start it up and put it in drive for about 15 sec. Then turn it off. Feel the lines, the warm one is the supply and the cool one is the return. Worked for me.
You can double clamp as long as you do not smash the barb on the end of the fitting. I never had a problem with using one clamp, but I check all of mine about once every month or so. At least whenever I check the oil. It only takes a minute to check all of the hoses and you uasually only need a screwdriver, or you can use a 1/4" or 5/16" nut driver or 1/4" drive ratchet.
Preventive Maint. is a good thing,
Jimmy