I will be pulling my engine in the next month or so to replace the oil pan, up pipes and oil cooler. It has 171K on it now and runs good as far as I can tell. Probably going to run a compression test on it before removal just to see what #'s look like.



What else would you do while it is out?


Keep in mind this is going to be low budget and not a full on performance build, unfortunately, so injectors, studs, etc. are out this time.

 

I would replace rear main seal, and install the hpx and fpx from riff raff.

 

Thanks for the response.

Good idea on the rear main seal. Plan on a RR fuel system too, forgot to include that in the first post. Already have the HPX installed.

 

pull your manifolds and have them ceramic coated by clay.. uppipes ceramic coated too.. and clean the ***** outta the engine bay!!!

 

Closely inspect the oil jets under the pistons and consider tack welding them so you don't lose one later. When you say up pipes, I hope you're referring to the bellowed type.

 

If you dont already have new pipes and if money allows, go with the belloewd up pipes.

 

Consider installing a new LPOP. LINK

 

Good ideas. Pressure washer is standing by.

Good plan, kind of forgot about the cooling jets. I'll have the welder handy.

Already have the bellowed pipes, ceramic coated, on the shelf.

 

Sounds like a learning experience ahead of you. Good luck! You know where to turn if you get stumped!

 

Don't forget this mod Mike...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...hosyerdad.html

 

I would get the rebuild kits for the fuel bowl, HPOP and lines, every o-ring that Guzzle has. Will be a lot easier while on the engine stand to do this.

You know we love pics.

 

Thanks.
I have helped with removal of an engine on one of these trucks before, so that will help.

Oh yeah, definitely gotta have one of those too, LOL. Maybe we should test it out on your truck first though.

Good ideas Rick.

I'll try to remember the pics.

 

How about getting that van turbo installed you have on the shelf?

Let me know when you plan on doing this Mike and I will be there if at all possible!

 

If you weld the cooling jets, remember that if you are using a wire feed welder, heat up the cast block almost cherry red before you tack it, or it won't hold a 10 penny nail. If you use an arc welder like I did, either use some nickel rods or heat the cast with a torch just like with wire feed.

Ideally you would like to TIG weld them on.

But I will tell you right now, unless you pull the heads, crank and rods, it is going to be one major PITA to do any of the above.

To the best of my knowledge there has never been one problem with cooling jets as long as they have never been removed as they were factory. The problem that people run into is when they remove them to bore/line or hone a cylinder and reuse the bolts to put them back in, they have a tendency to come out. So unless you remove them, I wouldn't even bother with them.

If it was me I would atleast 910 valve springs (studs if you plan on more powah down the road), usually around 200k the stock valvesprings are only holding 70% of their "new" seat pressure. I have done both with the engine out, and in the truck, and if you even intend on doing more to the motor down the road, trust me you will thank yourself for doing them now with it on the stand.

Just some food for thought.

I also probably wouldn't bother that much with the rear main unless yours is leaking now, there aren't that many problems with them really.

It would be a good time to replace the O rings for the dipstick and flange now as well.

Also if you are to remove the engine dampner, be sure sure to put some silicon on the bolt when you reinstall it.

 

Good advice! Mine was worn out at 180k... Here are some specs:

Edit: Clay sells the better pump: http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/mm5/me...Category_Code=