Hard to start
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New User
Joined: Dec 2001
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Hard to start
I have a 1990 F-150 with a 302, replaced the motor about a year ago
and when the motor is hot the motor will not start, try to start it and all it will do is click. Let it sit for 10 - 15 minutes and it will start. any ideals what may be the problem.
Thanks All
and when the motor is hot the motor will not start, try to start it and all it will do is click. Let it sit for 10 - 15 minutes and it will start. any ideals what may be the problem.
Thanks All
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Joined: Sep 2001
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Hard to start
Don't jump to conclusions, I have the same problem.
I have an 87 with a new 351W, new starter, new solenoid, new thicker cables, and new battery.
All cables from battery to solenoid, starter, Chasis, body, and engine are #2 cable. When the engine is hot (normal operating temp.)if I turn it off I will have to wait 15 to 30 min or it won't crank or cranks very slow.
I even rechecked the timing just in case and problem has not gone away.
Xavier
PS:Ill let you know if it does and what it was.
I have an 87 with a new 351W, new starter, new solenoid, new thicker cables, and new battery.
All cables from battery to solenoid, starter, Chasis, body, and engine are #2 cable. When the engine is hot (normal operating temp.)if I turn it off I will have to wait 15 to 30 min or it won't crank or cranks very slow.
I even rechecked the timing just in case and problem has not gone away.
Xavier
PS:Ill let you know if it does and what it was.
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Joined: Dec 2001
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Hard to start
>Don't jump to conclusions, I have the same problem.
>I have an 87 with a new 351W, new starter, new solenoid, new
>thicker cables, and new battery.
>All cables from battery to solenoid, starter, Chasis, body,
>and engine are #2 cable. When the engine is hot (normal
>operating temp.)if I turn it off I will have to wait 15 to
>30 min or it won't crank or cranks very slow.
>I even rechecked the timing just in case and problem has not
>gone away.
>
>Xavier
>PS:Ill let you know if it does and what it was.
So what could the problem be then? It would not start agin last night
for over an hour, then this morning no problem around town, motor off and on and no problems, Just seems to not want to start when l need too. Is there a fuse link in there someplace that may be the problem then ?
Thanks for any help.
>I have an 87 with a new 351W, new starter, new solenoid, new
>thicker cables, and new battery.
>All cables from battery to solenoid, starter, Chasis, body,
>and engine are #2 cable. When the engine is hot (normal
>operating temp.)if I turn it off I will have to wait 15 to
>30 min or it won't crank or cranks very slow.
>I even rechecked the timing just in case and problem has not
>gone away.
>
>Xavier
>PS:Ill let you know if it does and what it was.
So what could the problem be then? It would not start agin last night
for over an hour, then this morning no problem around town, motor off and on and no problems, Just seems to not want to start when l need too. Is there a fuse link in there someplace that may be the problem then ?
Thanks for any help.
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 50
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Hard to start
Yes, there is a fusable link mounted on the right side inner wall just behind the battery. But that is a fairly reliable part... nothing moving.
I had this "no start when warm" happen on my truck ('92 F150 4.9L-I6), and it turned out to be a bad/shorting alternator. The heat expanded the internals of the alternator enough to make it short out.
Do this: remove the negative battery cable, then put a meter between the negative battery cable and the negative battery post. Set the meter to AMPs. If you see a decent draw, disconnect the wiring plug from the back of the alternator. If the draw goes down to nearly zero, then consider the alternator has an internal short and needs replacement.
It is a cinch to replace an alternator. Just remove the serpentine belt and unbolt. Bring it to the auto parts place so they can exchange the pulley to the new alternator.
I had this "no start when warm" happen on my truck ('92 F150 4.9L-I6), and it turned out to be a bad/shorting alternator. The heat expanded the internals of the alternator enough to make it short out.
Do this: remove the negative battery cable, then put a meter between the negative battery cable and the negative battery post. Set the meter to AMPs. If you see a decent draw, disconnect the wiring plug from the back of the alternator. If the draw goes down to nearly zero, then consider the alternator has an internal short and needs replacement.
It is a cinch to replace an alternator. Just remove the serpentine belt and unbolt. Bring it to the auto parts place so they can exchange the pulley to the new alternator.
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Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Dec 2001
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Hard to start
>Same thing with 85 .. please i need help ... did you figure
>it out ?
Sure did figure it out, I replaced the starter and all is ok, right up to now when the water pump just went, oh well thats tomorrows job.
>it out ?
Sure did figure it out, I replaced the starter and all is ok, right up to now when the water pump just went, oh well thats tomorrows job.
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Joined: Sep 2001
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Hard to start
I found the problem to be a bad ground cable, I installed a new ground cable from the battery to the eng. block and from the battery to the chassis, I also added a new one from the battery to the body.
Yes it was a little mnore work but now the three are independant from each other as for grounding.
When I had the problem come up on me I already had a new starter and a new ground cable to the eng. block, the original ground went from the battery to the chasis and continued to the block well I put individual ones to each and added the cab ground.
Have not had any starting problems ever since and my lights and signals work better also.
Cables can look like they are in good shape from the outside but they can be corroded internaly anywhere along it's length and give problems
which are hard to find.
If your problem is not cranking but getting it to start also check the connectors for the ignition system.
Xavier
Yes it was a little mnore work but now the three are independant from each other as for grounding.
When I had the problem come up on me I already had a new starter and a new ground cable to the eng. block, the original ground went from the battery to the chasis and continued to the block well I put individual ones to each and added the cab ground.
Have not had any starting problems ever since and my lights and signals work better also.
Cables can look like they are in good shape from the outside but they can be corroded internaly anywhere along it's length and give problems
which are hard to find.
If your problem is not cranking but getting it to start also check the connectors for the ignition system.
Xavier
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 383
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From: southeast,usa
Hard to start
How do you know it's not the starter? Have you replaced it? Rebuilts are notorious for problems. Have you checked current draw to the starter? A binding or "heat soaked" starter will show a larger than normal current draw. Have you checked all your cables? If they are originals there is a good chance you may have internal corrosion and need to replace them.
