Hey everyone. I haven't posted till now but have enjoyed reading all of your posts over the last couple of years or so. Lots of good info here.

Just thought I would get a few opinions on this. I have an '88 F250 with an ATS 088 turbo system on it. Love the truck. I just don't get much boost. typically 3-5 psi. If I really jam on it I can get 7-9 but the EGTs come up so fast I can only get it there and then I have to back right off. The truck is almost difficult to drive even empty because the EGTs will just heat up so quick on any kind of hill, can't even drive it to it's potential because I have to back off all the time. Pulling is even more of a chore with the EGT problem.

I figure I should back the fuel off some but the low boost just ticks me off. I think if I was able to get more boost without working it so hard to get there my problem might be alleviated.

I only let the EGTs get to about 900-1000 because the pyrometer probe is mounted in the turbo casting itself, exhaust side (looks to be the stock ATS location, kind of a stupid place. I used to mess with the Chev 6.2s a lot and the Banks kits always had the probe in the manifold--way better idea).

Anyway, any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

The boost is limited because the stock head bolts won't hold with more boost, and blown head gaskets will result.
The best bet to lower EGTs is with proper IP timing, and good intake & exhaust breathing...
Yeah, the exhaust manifold is the best place for the pyro sensor. I don't know how much it drops by the time it gets to the turbo, but I suspect it's significant, and probably varies with weather conditions...

 

It just seems that most of the threads I read on here people are getting at least 8-10 psi without much trouble. I know you don't want say 17 psi in an IDI but my old 6.2 Chev with a Banks system used to rock 10 psi no problem, EGTs were even in check! Maybe it's where it should be then. What boost are other guys running safely?

 

Seems most people are staying below 10psi unless they've studded the heads.
Of course, there's Dave S. running 20+psi, but that's a heavily modified engine...
I'm running 7psi max with an ATS 093 on a stock 7.3, and hit 1200 on the pyro easily.
(My pyro sensor is in the manifold...)

 

I am at 9.5. Snapon runs @ 14. I am going to turn my wastegate up to about 11-12. I dont have studded head bolts. But my father's ATS 088 brought him 8-11 psi. Its sounds like your IP is off and your exhaust is not getting enough out. I would disconnect and redrill a probe into the manifold. I would check on your IP, either its too retarded or its too far advanced. We blew the head gasket on the old truck because it had 575k on it.

 

does she smoke excessively?

 

Yeah the boost you're talking about seems to be what I hear most guys running. I'll have to ck the IP and see if the timing mark is lined up. I assume it's just like the 6.2s with a line on the pump side and one on the engine side. I also wonder if the turbo could be part of the problem with the boost. I have looked at the compressor wheel and it has some nicks and dings. There is no shaft play though. I don't know what condition the exhaust turbine is in. Haven't looked at that. Also, the exhaust is at least a 3" maybe 3.5and looks like an ATS set-up. I don't have a muffler and it just has a 90 degree elbow just in front of the rear axle that dumps the exhaust on the ground. I wouldn't think exhaust is my problem at all.

What about the seals for the exhaust outlet and the crossover tube inlet into the turbo? Are they just little donut seals in there? I do believe I have a small leak in at least one or both of those. Could be losing some efficiency there. Don't know how to get to them though, never dealt with one of these systems.

Hey just a side note here, how do you get the turbo off the back of the motor? I have taken it apart to the point that just the turbo was there but really couldn't see how to get it off???? I need to get to my glow plug controller underneath. I have never installed one of these kits so I don't have the advantage of that knowledge. I can do the Banks 6.2s in my sleep but this is completly different!

 

No funny thing she hardly smokes at all. I have to be in too high a gear or punch it or something and still very little smoke. This makes me think that I am not overfueling.

 

By the way the reason I am sitting around here today is that I own and operate a dump truck and the weather sucks here in Utah so here I sit, driving my wife crazy and the phone is silent....

 

The reason your turbo isn't boosting like others is because it is not wastegated. Non waste gated turbo boost is directly related to how high the IP is turned up. If the IP is turned all the way up, your turbo will boost higher and faster until you roast your pistons and blow your headgaskets. Waste gated turbos have wastegates that will limit the boost so once the boost reaches a preset pressure, it won't go boost above that. Non waste gated turbos achieve power in the higher revolutions, wastegated turbos achieve power all throughout the rpm curve. What you need to do is turn your IP down, a flat or so and get your probe relocated to the manifold. After that tell us about where you are boost and egt wise.

 

How old is the injection pump and injectors?

I have the 093 wastegate system on my truck, and have boost numbers similar to yours. And while I can get the pyro up to 900-1000, thats at the manifold and only on big hills with the pedal mashed.

My point is, my truck has 203,000 miles on the original pump and injectors. Thats about twice the recommended life... If the weather here clears, I'm going to install new injectors and a rebuilt pump. From what I've heard, that should wake my truck up a good bit, and probably yours if they pump and injectors are old.

I hear you about the weather, I'm on vacation this week, and wanted to work on my truck, or do some yardwork, but I'm stuck inside and rather pissed about it. Yes I have a lot of other things I can do inside, but the outside projects are multi day ones that I might not be able to do until June when school lets out (I teach).

 

A tired IP should run cooler, My EGT's jumped up quite a bit when I swapped in the new one. First just turn down your IP and tell us how it runs, remember, non-wastegated turbos take longer to achieve max boost so it is normal to take that long.

 

Well I did a couple of things. I checked the timing and the marks are aligned so that is good. I turned the fuel down around a flat and took it for a test drive (relocating the EGT probe will be a little more involved so I have not done that yet).

It was WAY more drivable. When I floored it it still kind of got up to 900 deg pretty quick but it stopped there, kind of hovered between 900-1000, even floored. Nice. Now I can USE the power that I do have rather than having more power that I cannot use.

The boost will now only go to about 7psi, and that is floored, working it. BUT, I can now stay at that and use that power rather than having to back off right away. So overall it's better.

I am familiar with the diff between a wastegated turbo and non and how they work but I would love to know what others with my type of set up are boosting. 7psi still seems low to me. I would like to see closer to 10 and without so much effort! But maybe I am way off and this is where it is supposed to be.

 

If you tow a 10K trailer up hill - you will boost more than 7psi.

Having the timing marks aligned means nothing....

 

I am sure the IP and injectors are probably original. The injectors are still grey! I don't know how many miles are on the truck, 65000, 165000, 265000, 365000 ha! The truck is actually in spectacular shape and even the original seat still has crown to it and no holes. I would guess 165000 if anything. Yeah, I do want to do injectors and IP but I either need extra $$ or need to wait till it breaks.

You're right about the boost. I need to hook up my backhoe trailer and hit a big hill to see where things REALLY are now. There is a nice hill close to home that makes a good testing ground.