new clutch?
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2011
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new clutch?
I've had my B4000 for ten years or so now. It is a 97. My clutch seems to be going. It has a shaky or slow engagement up high-mainly difficult in first. Could it just be the clutch cable? Do those stretch over time? also, sometimes I do hear a small thump or thud while engaging it-seems to be coming from the rear though- i think. Any ideas?
I did get a quote from the Dealer for a clutch job including the whole clutch kit plus slave for $1500. I will not go there, was just checking, but what can I expect as a more reasonable cost for the job? Which off brand kits are good or should I get the oem from the dealer?
thanks,
mark
I did get a quote from the Dealer for a clutch job including the whole clutch kit plus slave for $1500. I will not go there, was just checking, but what can I expect as a more reasonable cost for the job? Which off brand kits are good or should I get the oem from the dealer?
thanks,
mark
Hook it, I'll pull it.
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 15,037
Likes: 4
From: Grand Lake, La.
Welcome to FTE.
When my slave cylinder went out, it would work fine when cold, but after about 20 miles, it would not want to release once the clutch was let out. My clutch, pressure plate were in great shape so I just changed the slave cylinder. I think it was less then 70.00. I pulled the trans and changed it to save a lot of money. Mine is a '97 Ranger.
Good luck.
When my slave cylinder went out, it would work fine when cold, but after about 20 miles, it would not want to release once the clutch was let out. My clutch, pressure plate were in great shape so I just changed the slave cylinder. I think it was less then 70.00. I pulled the trans and changed it to save a lot of money. Mine is a '97 Ranger.
Good luck.
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Junior User
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thanks for the quick reply. I will see. I am going to milk the clutch till it doesnt work. It is not my daily driver.I dont know if I will tackle something like this. I have some Diy experience on my saabs and some on this truck. never the tranny removal though.
Reading on some older posts, the clunk I am experiencing may be the driveshaft needing grease- a common problem to these trucks but seems mostly common with 4 wd.
Reading on some older posts, the clunk I am experiencing may be the driveshaft needing grease- a common problem to these trucks but seems mostly common with 4 wd.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 16
From: Lost
The clutch is hydraulic, so there's no cable.
Have you ever had the clutch hydraulic system flushed? It uses brake fluid, which absorbs moisture. As it absorbs moisture, it turns dark, the darker it is, the more water is has absorbed. I bet your clutch has very dark fluid in it.....
Brake fluid should be flushed about every 2 years, whether it's the brake system, or hydraulic clutch. This will extend the life of the entire hydraulic system.
On my autocross car, I flush the brake and clutch hydraulic systems every year, and all others get it done at least every other year.
Have you ever had the clutch hydraulic system flushed? It uses brake fluid, which absorbs moisture. As it absorbs moisture, it turns dark, the darker it is, the more water is has absorbed. I bet your clutch has very dark fluid in it.....
Brake fluid should be flushed about every 2 years, whether it's the brake system, or hydraulic clutch. This will extend the life of the entire hydraulic system.
On my autocross car, I flush the brake and clutch hydraulic systems every year, and all others get it done at least every other year.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,716
Likes: 0
From: Boston, MA
I've had my B4000 for ten years or so now. It is a 97. My clutch seems to be going. It has a shaky or slow engagement up high-mainly difficult in first. Could it just be the clutch cable? Do those stretch over time? also, sometimes I do hear a small thump or thud while engaging it-seems to be coming from the rear though- i think. Any ideas?
I did get a quote from the Dealer for a clutch job including the whole clutch kit plus slave for $1500. I will not go there, was just checking, but what can I expect as a more reasonable cost for the job? Which off brand kits are good or should I get the oem from the dealer?
thanks,
mark
I did get a quote from the Dealer for a clutch job including the whole clutch kit plus slave for $1500. I will not go there, was just checking, but what can I expect as a more reasonable cost for the job? Which off brand kits are good or should I get the oem from the dealer?
thanks,
mark
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2011
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thanks rogue, that may be it and will be the first step. I dont know if the fluid for either the brakes nor the clutch have been changed in the ten years i've owned it. it looks dark. Is the clutch resevoir on the edge of the egine compartment on the drivers side? or like my saab, they are both on the same line(main reservoir) and can do both from there? the master cylinder as powersmoked says? I will see what my Haynes manual says.
powersmoked, I changed the tran fluid this past fall. It hadn't been done except maybe once when I first got it. It was not dirty at all. Although first gear has always been difficult to engage ever since I have had it-now other gears are getting worse as well-not terrible. maybe the master drain will help that. Maybe the synchros are going though?
powersmoked, I changed the tran fluid this past fall. It hadn't been done except maybe once when I first got it. It was not dirty at all. Although first gear has always been difficult to engage ever since I have had it-now other gears are getting worse as well-not terrible. maybe the master drain will help that. Maybe the synchros are going though?
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 16
From: Lost
Clutch is the one on the fender, it's not sharing the resevoir with the brakes.
Flushing the clutch is fairly easy. I used a long piece of clear tubing, and cracked open the bleeder to allow it to (slowly) drain itself down, while topping up the resevoir before it got beyond 1/2 way empty. Took about 20 minutes or so. You want to run at least 1 full small jug of fluid (~12oz) thru the system, then tighten the bleeder and make sure the resevoir is topped up.
Run the open end of the hose into an old plastic soda bottle (or similar) to prevent a huge mess under the truck, and it can capped for disposal.
Brakes are a bit more involved, and require at least a quart of fluid, I usually make sure I have 2 quarts handy before starting the task.
Flushing the clutch is fairly easy. I used a long piece of clear tubing, and cracked open the bleeder to allow it to (slowly) drain itself down, while topping up the resevoir before it got beyond 1/2 way empty. Took about 20 minutes or so. You want to run at least 1 full small jug of fluid (~12oz) thru the system, then tighten the bleeder and make sure the resevoir is topped up.
Run the open end of the hose into an old plastic soda bottle (or similar) to prevent a huge mess under the truck, and it can capped for disposal.
Brakes are a bit more involved, and require at least a quart of fluid, I usually make sure I have 2 quarts handy before starting the task.
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Junior User
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according to Haynes, they say drain it, but also do some pumping on the clutch, hold it, and repeat, etc. Is that just a faster way to do it?
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Ohio
When I needed my clutch done I took it to a recommended tranny shop [locally owned not chain]. They did the clutch and slave cylinder swap for about $700 and used top quality parts. I knew they knew what they were doing when I brought the truck in and they knew you should swap out the slave cylinder when you have it down. They even knew to replace the plastic shift rail plugs with metal frieze plugs and did that as well. Hopefully you have a similar shop in your area because IMHO $1500 is a gouge.
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