When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My 71 360 2bl has two vacuum ports on the distributor. Does one advance and one retard timing? One to ported vacuum on carb and one to manifold vacuum or what?
Thanks for your help!
If it's like the dual diaphragm advance on my '71 429 the front (advance) chamber goes to ported vacuum and the rear (retard) chamber runs through a TVS to manifold vacuum.
The retard only works when the advance is in the rest position, in other words the retard is the soft stop for the advance and retards it from that point. The two don't fight one another.
Is rear (retard) the port nearest the dist? No TVS on mine. I have front dist. port to carb and rear port directly to manifold tree? My suspect my vacuum advance (front port) may not be working right. Should the distributor plate rotate when I suck on the vacuum line or if I try to rotate it by hand? Mine won't move and seems to be frozen solid?
I found out why the advance would not work. The previous owner stuffed three washers in behind the spring. Took these out and the vacuum advance works. The retard port (nearest the dizzy) holds no vacuum at all. I can suck or blow air straight through it but when I attach the mabifold vacuum line the idle drops some. Is this normal?
I'm thinking I should buy a new vacuum advance unit. Should I stay with the dual port type or just get the single (advance port) type? I believe the one I have is adjustable with a large nut where the previous owner stuffed all the washers in. All the new ones I can find do not have this nut for adjustment ???
Some of the new ones are still adjustable but not like yours where you can stuff washers inside. Instead, inside the advance nipple is an adjuster that you stick in an allen wrench thru to tighten or loosen the spring tension.
I took the washers out so it will advance when I suck on it but when I put it back together it runs like crap. With the carb vacuum line attached to the advance port no change at idle but starting at about 1000 plus rpm the engine shakes violently and started smoking out the tail pipe (that's a new one...) If I pull it off, cap it and just run manifold vacuum to the retard port it runs great and does not smoke..?
btw... Dizzy vacuum advance does not leak. It will hold a vacuum when I suck on it. Unlike the rear (retard) port that leaks like a sieve, sucking or blowing..?
also... Carb vacuum reading is 17-18 max at 1,000 plus rpm. Manifold vac develops 18-19 at idle.
Hook up a dwell meter to see if the dwell is changing drastically when it's advancing. Could be a worn pivot on your breaker plate and with the increased advance your points gap is changing.
Even when these Ford dizzys work perfectly, the dwell changes a little with the vacuum advance 'cause the breaker plate pivot is not concentric with the breaker cam, cheezy design.
Another thing to check is that the ground strap from the breaker plate to the housing is intact.
It sounds like you're getting too much vacuum advance.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.