2150 ported vacuum
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,127
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From: (near) Denver USA
There are several different OEM vac advance units, each with different calibration (vacuum sensitivity and advance movement).
To some extent, you can adjust the amount of advance with all of the adjustable vac advance units. All OEM Ford vac advance units made since the late '60s are adjustable. There are also aftermarket adjustable vac advance units with various specs.
Here's some more info about adjusting (tuning) the vac advance:
http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250/perf/perf02c.html
To some extent, you can adjust the amount of advance with all of the adjustable vac advance units. All OEM Ford vac advance units made since the late '60s are adjustable. There are also aftermarket adjustable vac advance units with various specs.
Here's some more info about adjusting (tuning) the vac advance:
http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250/perf/perf02c.html
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: NB, Canada
Should an engine block retain the vacuum advance canister from its original year of manufacture/distributor type, or should it use the canister from the distributor type that isn't original? The canister from 88 seems to have more range of movement.
Senior User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 353
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From: Bayonne NJ
I don't want to hijack this thread, but on my 2150 the ported vacuum line is T'ed off. ?One end goes to the vacuum advance and the other to the back of the carb to the egr? Is this right?
BTW thanks Bubba for the great links. When are you going to get around to giving directions on how to rebuild this carb?
BTW thanks Bubba for the great links. When are you going to get around to giving directions on how to rebuild this carb?
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Louisville,Ky.
This is correct only if the EGR line goes thru a temp operated vacuum switch first so that it doesn't open when the engine is cold.
Jimmy
Jimmy
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Senior User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 353
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From: Bayonne NJ
It goes straight into the egr. nothing in between. The truck runs great until it gets warm. The choke wont open up an its own and when i open it maunally, it bogs the engine down.
Again I want to apoligize if you feel that i am hijacking this thread. It is just that i was going to ask about this today as well.
sorry
Again I want to apoligize if you feel that i am hijacking this thread. It is just that i was going to ask about this today as well.
sorry
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Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,127
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From: (near) Denver USA
Should an engine block retain the vacuum advance canister from its original year of manufacture/distributor type, or should it use the canister from the distributor type that isn't original?
Using a different vac advance unit might give better-than-stock performance. Either way, it will take some trial and error testing to get it right, or a tuning shop with a distributor machine to dial it in for you.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,127
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From: (near) Denver USA
No. The engine will run fine with the top completely off the carb, though you wouldn't want to drive it that way.
The main problem with a missing screw on the top is that the top will eventually warp because the pressure holding it against the gasket isn't distributed properly.
You could have fuel leaks, if the screw is missing from one of the front four positions. And if it's missing from one of the rear positions, the carb could suck in unfiltered air below the air filter housing.
A vacuum leak is somewhere below the throttle plates.
The main problem with a missing screw on the top is that the top will eventually warp because the pressure holding it against the gasket isn't distributed properly.
You could have fuel leaks, if the screw is missing from one of the front four positions. And if it's missing from one of the rear positions, the carb could suck in unfiltered air below the air filter housing.
A vacuum leak is somewhere below the throttle plates.
Senior User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 353
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From: Bayonne NJ
I got some carb cleaner and pretty muchsoaked the carb and intake with it and nothing happened. The idle didn't change at all.
runs fine when cold, but when it warms up and I manually open up the choke it starts running rough and dies under load. not while in park or neutral. only when it is in gear. Could this be EGR?
runs fine when cold, but when it warms up and I manually open up the choke it starts running rough and dies under load. not while in park or neutral. only when it is in gear. Could this be EGR?
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,127
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From: (near) Denver USA
It could be EGR, but I think the symptom still points to a vacuum leak.
Have you checked all of the vacuum hoses for leaks? Any loose hoses that should be plugged or re-connected?
How about all of the diaphragms attached to vacuum hoses (vac advance, EGR valve, heat stove vac motor in the air cleaner housing snout, etc.)?
How about any other vacuum devices (switches, delay valves, bleed valves, reservoirs, etc.)?
How about all of the hose junctions (T connectors, Y connectors, etc.)?
How about the rubber caps that block off on any unused vacuum nipples on the main manifold vacuum tree?
After you check all of those things, then you should start looking elsewhere.
Have you checked all of the vacuum hoses for leaks? Any loose hoses that should be plugged or re-connected?
How about all of the diaphragms attached to vacuum hoses (vac advance, EGR valve, heat stove vac motor in the air cleaner housing snout, etc.)?
How about any other vacuum devices (switches, delay valves, bleed valves, reservoirs, etc.)?
How about all of the hose junctions (T connectors, Y connectors, etc.)?
How about the rubber caps that block off on any unused vacuum nipples on the main manifold vacuum tree?
After you check all of those things, then you should start looking elsewhere.