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Yeah we will do that. It would be stupid to have the pan off and not even look.
The temptation to go the whole hog and do a complete rebuild is strong but the prospect of being served cold shoulder and hot tongue is a stronger deterrent!
well, if there are still cross hatch marks on the cylinder walls you can do a bearing and re ring. no machine work needed. or spend $100 and have the crank polished and that will clean any minor damage up.
Oreo
When you say bearing do you mean bearing shells? What if there's no cross hatch? Should I go for a re bore or de glaze?
I'm not so sure my mechanic is competent with diesels. He already conceded that I will have to set up the timing which will be pretty straight forward since the front cover will be off.
Fortunately I will be doing some of the work in his shop in the evening.
Oreo
When you say bearing do you mean bearing shells? What if there's no cross hatch? Should I go for a re bore or de glaze?
I'm not so sure my mechanic is competent with diesels. He already conceded that I will have to set up the timing which will be pretty straight forward since the front cover will be off.
Fortunately I will be doing some of the work in his shop in the evening.
Open it up and take some pics, you want to scrub out any coolant leftovers inside the bearing shells etc, it'll show up as a gold/brown stain if its there, just wipe the shells with solvent, and don't mix them up in orientation or position.
I'm not sure if bearing caps are marked but used to go at it with a punch, pick a side, dots for cap position and orientation, same for rod caps if they're not marked by cylinder number.
Bearings are a little fragile, they're tin over copper over steel, be gentle with them.
Open it up and take some pics, you want to scrub out any coolant leftovers inside the bearing shells etc, it'll show up as a gold/brown stain if its there, just wipe the shells with solvent, and don't mix them up in orientation or position.
I'm not sure if bearing caps are marked but used to go at it with a punch, pick a side, dots for cap position and orientation, same for rod caps if they're not marked by cylinder number.
Bearings are a little fragile, they're tin over copper over steel, be gentle with them.
I'll do them one at a time and reassemble before moving to the next