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electric fan questtion

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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 12:02 PM
  #1  
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jaybob1807
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electric fan questtion

I have a 95 f150 351w and am considering putting in an e-fan from a taurus. My question is from which years of taurus can i use and also will my stock 95 amp alternator provide sufficient power?
Thanks
 
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 02:01 PM
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SleeprLegend
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Originally Posted by jaybob1807
I have a 95 f150 351w and am considering putting in an e-fan from a taurus. My question is from which years of taurus can i use and also will my stock 95 amp alternator provide sufficient power?
Thanks
Look into replacing the alternator pulley with one that has a fan. I don't know the details on the rest.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2011 | 11:38 PM
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86F150302
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Originally Posted by SleeprLegend
Look into replacing the alternator pulley with one that has a fan. I don't know the details on the rest.
Whattttttt!?!?!?


Anyways...

90-95 with the 3.8 V6
Mark VIII and Windstar(my fav) fans are also very common swaps.
While your there grab you a 3G 130 amp alternator too. Stock alt isnt enough.

There is alot of usefull info on both 130 amp 3g alternators and E fan swaps. Use the search and you will turn up everything you should need.

 
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Old Apr 19, 2011 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 86F150302
Whattttttt!?!?!?
According to Powermaster my 130 amp alternator is overheating because I switched from an "always on" mechanical fan to an "on as needed" electric fan. In order to fix this I was told to install a pulley with a fan on the alternator.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2011 | 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by SleeprLegend
According to Powermaster my 130 amp alternator is overheating because I switched from an "always on" mechanical fan to an "on as needed" electric fan. In order to fix this I was told to install a pulley with a fan on the alternator.
Big fans turning off/on cause voltage spikes, and can be HARD on alternators. I burned up SEVERAL when I first started using electric fans (thank God for AutoZone lifetime warranty!!).

SOLUTION: Variable speed fan controller. These ramp the fan speed up/down in proportion to the engine/coolant/radiator (depending upon which brand controller you get) temp. As such, you avoid the voltage spikes. You also avoid wild swings in coolant temp.

I tried the SPAL, but had problems. I now exclusively use the controller from DC Controls Home owned by Brian Baskin. He is a one-man show, and this is a side business for him, but his product is the best I've found. He isn't always quick to answer e-mails, but if you place your order on-line you WILL get it. He tests every single unit thoroughly, and he makes them in batches, and they are typically all sold before he is finished testing. So you might wait a week or two for delivery, but IMHO it is worth it.

I have his fan controller on my Cobra, and his combination fan/waterpump (electric) controller on my Falcon - both work great.

Lee
 
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 08:29 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by L n L
Big fans turning off/on cause voltage spikes, and can be HARD on alternators. I burned up SEVERAL when I first started using electric fans (thank God for AutoZone lifetime warranty!!).

SOLUTION: Variable speed fan controller. These ramp the fan speed up/down in proportion to the engine/coolant/radiator (depending upon which brand controller you get) temp. As such, you avoid the voltage spikes. You also avoid wild swings in coolant temp.

I tried the SPAL, but had problems. I now exclusively use the controller from DC Controls Home owned by Brian Baskin. He is a one-man show, and this is a side business for him, but his product is the best I've found. He isn't always quick to answer e-mails, but if you place your order on-line you WILL get it. He tests every single unit thoroughly, and he makes them in batches, and they are typically all sold before he is finished testing. So you might wait a week or two for delivery, but IMHO it is worth it.

I have his fan controller on my Cobra, and his combination fan/waterpump (electric) controller on my Falcon - both work great.

Lee
Great info! Would these spikes melt a 2 guage alternator positive lead?
 
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 08:59 PM
  #7  
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From: Graniteville
Originally Posted by SleeprLegend
According to Powermaster my 130 amp alternator is overheating because I switched from an "always on" mechanical fan to an "on as needed" electric fan. In order to fix this I was told to install a pulley with a fan on the alternator.
I would be looking elsewhere for the overheating problem. On my 90 F250, the only electric draw that has been removed is the injectors themselves (carb conversion) it still runs the factory in tank pumps, air, alpine stereo, ranger cb, and dual electric fans. All powered by a 100amp (old style large case) alternator until last year, when I finally did the 3G swap on it. I'm going to guess that you are running the late style case, if thats the case, adding another fan on the pulley isn't going to really matter as the alternator already has dual internal fans in it.

<table width="564" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr valign="top" align="left"></tr><tr valign="top" align="left"><td colspan="5" class="TextObject" width="93">Features:

</td><td colspan="5">
</td></tr><tr valign="top" align="left"><td colspan="2">
</td><td colspan="7" class="TextObject" width="272">
  • Excellent Output at Idle
  • Proof of Performance Tag
  • Dual Internal Fans
  • 6-groove Serpentine Pulley
  • Heavy Duty Internal Regulator
</td></tr></tbody></table>
 
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by L. Ward
I would be looking elsewhere for the overheating problem. On my 90 F250, the only electric draw that has been removed is the injectors themselves (carb conversion) it still runs the factory in tank pumps, air, alpine stereo, ranger cb, and dual electric fans. All powered by a 100amp (old style large case) alternator until last year, when I finally did the 3G swap on it. I'm going to guess that you are running the late style case, if thats the case, adding another fan on the pulley isn't going to really matter as the alternator already has dual internal fans in it.

<TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=564><TBODY><TR vAlign=top align=left></TR><TR vAlign=top align=left><TD class=TextObject width=93 colSpan=5>Features:




</TD><TD colSpan=5>



</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top align=left><TD colSpan=2>



</TD><TD class=TextObject width=272 colSpan=7>
  • Excellent Output at Idle
  • Proof of Performance Tag
  • Dual Internal Fans
  • 6-groove Serpentine Pulley
  • Heavy Duty Internal Regulator
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
This is the alternator I have.

Powermaster 130amp - Summit
 
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by SleeprLegend
Great info! Would these spikes melt a 2 guage alternator positive lead?
I would not expect them to melt 2 guage! The spikes would be harder on components like diodes and such, than on cables. I'm personally running 2/0 guage, but I like to over-kill on such things. Melted cables sound like a bad connection or some crazy electrical flow/consumption going on.

Lee
 
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 09:24 PM
  #10  
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From: Moody, AL
Originally Posted by L n L
I would not expect them to melt 2 guage! The spikes would be harder on components like diodes and such, than on cables. I'm personally running 2/0 guage, but I like to over-kill on such things. Melted cables sound like a bad connection or some crazy electrical flow/consumption going on.

Lee
It always melts at the connector to the back of the alternator. I have added a fuse and made a direct link to the battery with 2 guage. I still have to install a new connector at the alternator every 3 months. My fans are not connected to a switched positive source, but I don't think that would cause such a problem. I figured a dead battery on a hot day would be my worst concern with this setup.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by SleeprLegend
It always melts at the connector to the back of the alternator. I have added a fuse and made a direct link to the battery with 2 guage. I still have to install a new connector at the alternator every 3 months. My fans are not connected to a switched positive source, but I don't think that would cause such a problem. I figured a dead battery on a hot day would be my worst concern with this setup.
Is the 2ga connecting the alt to the battery, or the alt to the fan? I'm hoping your fan is connected to the battery, not the alt.!

I killed about 5 alternators with the on/off fan switch arrangements, but never melted a connection. Withe DCControls unit, I've not had ANY problems.

Lee
 
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 09:42 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by L n L
Is the 2ga connecting the alt to the battery, or the alt to the fan? I'm hoping your fan is connected to the battery, not the alt.!

I killed about 5 alternators with the on/off fan switch arrangements, but never melted a connection. Withe DCControls unit, I've not had ANY problems.

Lee
It goes:

alternator - 2ga - 400amp fuse - 2ga - positive battery terminal
 
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 10:23 PM
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Where is the fan connection?
 
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 10:47 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by L n L
Where is the fan connection?
The fans connect to the positive battery post too. I installed a positive battery connector with aux connection on it just for this purpose.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2011 | 11:36 PM
  #15  
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From: Jacksonville FL
Originally Posted by SleeprLegend
It goes:

alternator - 2ga - 400amp fuse - 2ga - positive battery terminal
400 amp fuse is way to big for a say 130 amp alt. Need a 150 to be safe. That way if there was a problem it would trip the 150 amp fuse before melting wire. Your 2 gauge would never take 400 amps of power so it would burn up way before ever tripping a 400 amp fuse.

Them telling you to put a 2g style fanned pulley is just stupid. Trying to cover up a bigger problem with the alternator. I hope you didn't pay $200 for it either.
 
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