Looking for any Pros or Cons on a 99 Ranger
#1
Looking for any Pros or Cons on a 99 Ranger
I am looking at a 99 ford ranger xlt 4cyl, auto, ac, am/fm cass with 118k on it they are asking 3300.00 for it. This would be for my son to drive while in collage. I have not heard any negative info on rangers in the past but I do not know much about them with fuel prices what they are this seems to be a good deal. Don't know if anyone can run an oasis for me or not (4ftyr10c6xpa30064) if so Thank You. I would appreciate any info on this vehicle. Thanks in advance.
#2
I am looking at a 99 ford ranger xlt 4cyl, auto, ac, am/fm cass with 118k on it they are asking 3300.00 for it. This would be for my son to drive while in collage. I have not heard any negative info on rangers in the past but I do not know much about them with fuel prices what they are this seems to be a good deal. Don't know if anyone can run an oasis for me or not (4ftyr10c6xpa30064) if so Thank You. I would appreciate any info on this vehicle. Thanks in advance.
1) is it a 4wd?
2) is your mind already made up and you are just here so we can "bless" your potential purchase?
3) how many owners had it had?
#3
It is 2wd, no my mind is not made up I am going to test drive it in about an hour, and they bought it when it was seven months old, it is real clean inside and out and if they took care of the interior and outside that good they probably took care of the engine just as good. I just want to know if there are any specific things i should look for when i go and drive it. this is a private party.
#4
is it an automatic or standard?
ive had a number of rangers.my newest and current one is a 95.from my experience and i might get flamed but rangers are becoming unessarily complicated.from the slave cyl inside the transmission to the almost impossible removal of a heater core(shop wanted 500 bucks)
ive owned 3 rangers total and i would say ifi ts a standard you can be expecting to replace the clutch most likely pretty soon unless the prev. owner did alot of highway driving and was easy on the clutch....but most likely it will need replacing soon.make sure you replace the slave cyl too at the same time(get the kit)
having said that dollar for dollar its hard to beat a ranger.if you fix and replace every little thing its like anything else...you will go broke trying....but for me i overlook scratches and dings..even dents and only do upkeep thats needed.a ranger is hard to beat but i think i might look at getting a f150 next time around because the fuel mileage isnt much different it seems and you can pull so much more so much easier.for a general purpose running around kind of truck its hard to beat a ranger.i havent looked at prices in a long time so im not sure about that.i would think that sounds about right though.-----i personally avoid anything that someone has tried to mod out or pretend its a 4x4 drive.ifits got racing stickers and a k and n air filter i would look reeaaal close at the suspension etc--good luck
ive had a number of rangers.my newest and current one is a 95.from my experience and i might get flamed but rangers are becoming unessarily complicated.from the slave cyl inside the transmission to the almost impossible removal of a heater core(shop wanted 500 bucks)
ive owned 3 rangers total and i would say ifi ts a standard you can be expecting to replace the clutch most likely pretty soon unless the prev. owner did alot of highway driving and was easy on the clutch....but most likely it will need replacing soon.make sure you replace the slave cyl too at the same time(get the kit)
having said that dollar for dollar its hard to beat a ranger.if you fix and replace every little thing its like anything else...you will go broke trying....but for me i overlook scratches and dings..even dents and only do upkeep thats needed.a ranger is hard to beat but i think i might look at getting a f150 next time around because the fuel mileage isnt much different it seems and you can pull so much more so much easier.for a general purpose running around kind of truck its hard to beat a ranger.i havent looked at prices in a long time so im not sure about that.i would think that sounds about right though.-----i personally avoid anything that someone has tried to mod out or pretend its a 4x4 drive.ifits got racing stickers and a k and n air filter i would look reeaaal close at the suspension etc--good luck
#5
i personally always pay attention to the seat and the pedals so that they match the mileage shown.also i get pretty nervous when i see a really really clean engine...when they wash hoses and stuff.i usually walk from those.---make sure you look at the oil....dark is ok just not burnt cruddy oil.i fthey say they changed the oil yesterday and its black as night today well that means it was probably the only time its been changed.----most likely its a decent truck or you will be able to tell immediatly.
#6
I drove the truck it is an automatic drove well was driven by an older lady three things I found were the airbag light is on, the ac switches from the main vents to the defrost vents and back at random, and the windshield washer pump did not work. the truck was obviously detailed. oil was clean and clear. I do not think it is worth 3300 though I will think about it tonight and maybe call back tomorrow. It feels right just don't want to jump to soon.
#7
I drove the truck it is an automatic drove well was driven by an older lady three things I found were the airbag light is on, the ac switches from the main vents to the defrost vents and back at random, and the windshield washer pump did not work. the truck was obviously detailed. oil was clean and clear. I do not think it is worth 3300 though I will think about it tonight and maybe call back tomorrow. It feels right just don't want to jump to soon.
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#8
I would also ask about the timing belt. With 118K, it's about due for a change, if it hasn't been done. Not a terribly expensive item to replace if it can be driven to the shop. Having to get it towed in adds extra cost, and lots of frustration, as they never seem to break when it's convenient.
If the seller cannot provide proof of a new timing belt and tensioner, that can be used as a bargaining tool to get a lower price. Replacement of the belt/tensioner would run $300-500 parts/labor at most shops. If you can do the job yourself, under $100 in parts.
You certainly don't want that to go bad while the vehicle is away at college.
If the seller cannot provide proof of a new timing belt and tensioner, that can be used as a bargaining tool to get a lower price. Replacement of the belt/tensioner would run $300-500 parts/labor at most shops. If you can do the job yourself, under $100 in parts.
You certainly don't want that to go bad while the vehicle is away at college.
#9
#10
I've got a 98 that my dad bought new, went to my brother when my dad passed, and I bought it from him 4 years ago when my oldest got his license. It's got about 120k on it and runs like a top. Gas mileage is 20+ easy. It's a 4cyl with a stick and I did replace the clutch but that might have been because of a new driver learning to drive a stick as much as anything. I've heard of them logging 300k if they are properly maintained and cared for. If you can pick it up a little cheaper then I think you have a winner. You can sell it a few years down the road for almost what you buy it for. The depreciation is all but done but the utility of a truck is worth something as long as it's running. Good luck.
#11
I owned a 1999 Ranger that started w/108k on it. Its a 5R44E/5R55E transmission if its automatic. They hold up very well. I personally pulled a 2 horse straight load trailer w/2 1200 lb horses in it up a hill going bout 60. Its a very tough transmission if you dont hot rod it and just take care of it. The 4.0l V6 OHV is what the engine is. VERY tough engine, i pulled that trailer all over hell with it because at the time my diesel was down. ANother testament to the power, my ranger managed to pull a 1 ton chevy diesel out that was stuck in the mud because he locked the transfer case up and siezed everything. there was 2 feet of mud and i crawled in there with it and slowly but steadily pulled it out with a tow strap hooked to the front, granted I have the 4x4 model.
#12
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