Thats way cool great job

thanks for posting the vidieo reps to you
This will be part of my flush procedure you could give it a straight shot of cleaner to soak in the oil cooler for awhile maybe break the goo and junk down

Now the big question did your EOTs come down

 

Last Sat I backflushed about a pint of Restore Plus with 2gal of nearly boiling distilled water through the oil cooler and out of the driver's side block drain. I followed that with another few gallons of nearly boiling distilled water. The temps were better but started clogging back almost immediately. There was just too much crap still left in my cooling system. That's why I decided to just go with massive amounts of water. As much crap as I see coming out I figured flushing with huge amounts of tap water can't be worse than what I've already got in there. Then it rained through Wed and I started back Thurs. So I bypassed my Oil Cooler Backflush Solvent Reservoir and connected the rubber stopper directly to my hot water garden hose and backflushed. That bought me about 50 miles of no more than 13° difference. Then it clogged again today. I'm now at 30° difference. But I've only been flushing with hot tap water. Tap water alone, running the engine to open the thermostat, and flushing has been dissolving the crap in my system. I've still got Restore and Restore Plus sitting on the bench waiting to get in the game. I ran a gallon of Simple Green Pro HD through today just in case. I haven't seen evidence of oil contamination but I'm going all out to make sure I remove any possible oil residue that might inhibit the effectiveness of the 'Restore Brothers'.
I plan to backflush with hot tap water to break through, then fully flush with tap water to remove all the Simple Green.
And I'll continue with with hot tap water flush cycles till it starts coming out clear. I'm finally seeing very little solids coming out with flushes
Then I'll backflush the oil cooler with concentrated Restore.
Then a full Restore & tap water flush. I haven't seen any gel, but I've got the stuff so I'm using it.
Then tap water flushes until clear.
Then I'll backflush the oil cooler with concentrated Restore Plus.
Then a full Restore Plus & tap water flush.
I'll be backflushing the oil cooler as needed along the way.
Once all this runs clear, I've got 40gal of distilled water to displace the tap water with.
I've also got 2Qts of VC-9. I'm thinking VC-9 + distilled water.
Then flush with distilled till clear.
Then add Zerex G-05.


BTW, the anticipation of all the flushing I needed to do spawned another idea. Check it out...

Easy way to drain the driver's side of the block.


And a easy way to drain the passenger's side of the block, no more removing the starter. Of course, installing the valve was frustrating, but I only had to do it once:


Just put a container under here, flip the valve lever(s), avoid the hot coolant shower, and control where the drained coolant goes:



Yes, those are Fumoto valves. I replaced the included flange gaskets with O-rings. They work great!

 

Very nice!. Good idea with the valves.how did you flush the oil cooler directly?. I think that's my next step.the restore flushes got me to twenty four deg.difference,so I gained a little bit,but I think if I can get some pressure through the cooler it'll do a lot better than flushing again.

 

Bear in mind, this part refers to my 'massive hot tap water assault' on the crap that's lining the interior of my coolant system. I have a hot exterior faucet already installed. If you'd like to try this you might try connecting to your hot water supply in your laundry area.

I drained the radiator via petcock then lower radiator hose and closed them back. Then drained both sides of the block via the fumoto valves and closed them.

Then disconnected the heater core out hose from were it Ys back into the system under the degas bottle. I used a garden hose to 3/4" bib adapter to backflush through the output hose of the heater core. Stuffed clear tubing into the place that I removed this hose(didn't have any 3/4" tubing) so I could collect the backflush to see what crap came out. I backflushed the heater core till no more crap was settling out and put the hoses back together.



Then I filled the system back up through the degas bottle and drained the radiator and block again and again until it was clear and no more crap was settling out of what I collected. At this point I could be pretty sure that whatever crap that was loose or available for dissolving by water alone from the interior surfaces had done so. And I was ready to backflush the oil cooler and collect the results.

I removed the screws from the oil cooler out:


Removed the cover:


Stuffed the homemade backflush adapter into the oil cooler out:



I opened both block drain valves and proceeded to backflush the oil cooler till what I collected came out clear and free of sediment. I turned my garden hose valve on-off-on-off-etc. to surge hot water in to try to stir up and flush out as much as possible with this hot water only stage of cleaning out the cooling system. And, of course, I collected the backflush to see what came out.

I probably backflushed 15-20 gallons just through the oil cooler. The above pic is just some of what I flushed out of the oil cooler.

After doing this today with only hot water I took a 25mi round trip up I-40 and back at around 70-75mph in 88° ambient and my temps stayed within 9°.

 

Looks like it's working out for you. Good pics too!

 

I don't think I'm out of the woods yet. I'm sure there's plenty of crap still in the oil cooler. My goal with the hot tap water assault is to take advantage of using massive amounts of a common fluid (tap water) to break up and flush out the bulk of the loose garbage in the coolant system to ultimately achieve 2 things: (1) to reduce the incidence of re-clogging the oil cooler (2) and maintain a state of fluid flow through the oil cooler which may provide the turbulence and potentially increased exposure to the chemical flushes to dissolve more crap in the system. Ironically, the chemical flushes will break loose more crap to get clogged in the oil cooler. But I already know that I'll have to fully displace a chemical solution(Restore) with water before introducing a different chemical solution(Restore Plus). So I can do the "oil-cooler-backflush-hot-tap-water-assault" in between chemical flushes. Let's face it, getting a cooling system with a bunch of crap in it cleaned up is like a war of attrition. And that's what makes the investment in installing conveniences like the Fumoto valves worth it.

I think the key to this backflushing method is to thoroughly flush the stuff that gets dislodged from the oil cooler on out of the system through the block drains and lower radiator hose. It doesn't do us much good to break loose crap from the oil cooler into the system only to flow back into the cooler to clog it again.

The bad part about the backflush procedure is that it's tough to reach the oil cooler 'out' cover screws even bare handed with the turbo hot. It takes a while for the turbo to cool down enough to get your hands in there.

 

At least your efforts are paying off. Your temp delta is starting to look better.

 

Thats great you got it down to a 9 degree spread from 55 degrees

this will definatly added to my regular flush procecure I think backflushing the oil cooler itself was the ticket

And now look at the money you saved

this procedure should be put in the tech folder its the best method Iv seen for flushing the oil cooler and bringing down the temps

 

Here is a picture of a tool for reaching that stupid back screw. I didn't have one of these when I replaced my orange hose with the blue upgrade.

 

Also, that cap has an o-ring in there. I believe the part number for that is:

Outer O-ring for outlet port - 3C3Z-9N693-EA (International: 1846977C1)

 

How many hours did this take you?

 

I have a setup that introduces shop air into the water to help break things up.

 

Ill be trying this soon.after seeing what I got out of my system there's no way any flush aid will break up the sand and stuff thats lodged in the cooler.the only way is to go right to the problem like was done here.from 55 deg to 9 is incredible.......btw,where did you get the wedge piece of rubber?.

 

I've got a hex driver similar to that. The frustrating thing is having to wait till the turbo cools off enough so you don't get instant blisters from trying to get the screws out. Seems like the best time to backflush would be while it's hot, but...

 

I'm still working on it.

It's probably best that one doesn't count the hours invested. I wasn't kidding about the "war of attrition" phrase I used earlier. This is a project that requires tenacity.