55° EOT - ECT Δ. Working >400mi from home. Need tech advice.
#17
What's the maximum safe pressure the system can take?
Which cleaner to use? Restore, Restore Plus, both?
New thing I just read about VC-9:
In this same thread referred to above, Jugernaut emphatically stated that VC-9 is not a cleaning agent but but a metal conditioning agent meant to oxidize exposed surfaces, rendering those surfaces unavailable for reaction when the system is refilled with coolant & distilled water.
#18
Oh, and here is a link to a pictorial of a EGR delete and oil cooler replacement job:
Rob's truck build - New York Mustangs - Forums
Rob's truck build - New York Mustangs - Forums
if you deleate your egr dont change your intake manafold like the one in the pictures. In the pictures where the egr valve goes is welded. No way to mount the egr
keep the stock intake manafold and keep your egr valve plugged in and mounted this way your fan will work and you wont overheat this summer
then you can get a tunner to turn off the light for egr flow codes if its needed
these photoes give you a good idea of the work involved
#19
if you deleate your egr dont change your intake manafold like the one in the pictures. In the pictures where the egr valve goes is welded. No way to mount the egr
keep the stock intake manafold and keep your egr valve plugged in and mounted this way your fan will work and you wont overheat this summer
then you can get a tunner to turn off the light for egr flow codes if its needed
these photoes give you a good idea of the work involved
keep the stock intake manafold and keep your egr valve plugged in and mounted this way your fan will work and you wont overheat this summer
then you can get a tunner to turn off the light for egr flow codes if its needed
these photoes give you a good idea of the work involved
That's the way I'm running, unplugged.
Tell me if I'm right here:
Isn't it better that I have the valve electrically disconnected and in the off position so that the exhaust gasses aren't allowed to pass through and heat up the EGR and increase the possibility of the flash boiling that causes sudden expansion in the coolant system and possible vapor lock?
I think it's in the off position.
#20
your right but with a catch
and that flash boiling is what causes the golden goo it just compleates the circle and ands up in your oil cooler
does your ses light come on with the egr valve unplugged
my 03 egr valve is unplugged and I dont get a ses light my fan does come on at least when its dead middle of summer hot . I dont know if it should be coming on more? it doesnt get hot
03-early04 maybe an exception
05-07 need the egr valve plugged in to compleate the circut to the fan
I think it was the guy that took the pictures had a thread a couple weeks ago said he had coolant puke and overheating attributed to no egr valve no fan
and that flash boiling is what causes the golden goo it just compleates the circle and ands up in your oil cooler
does your ses light come on with the egr valve unplugged
my 03 egr valve is unplugged and I dont get a ses light my fan does come on at least when its dead middle of summer hot . I dont know if it should be coming on more? it doesnt get hot
03-early04 maybe an exception
05-07 need the egr valve plugged in to compleate the circut to the fan
I think it was the guy that took the pictures had a thread a couple weeks ago said he had coolant puke and overheating attributed to no egr valve no fan
#21
#22
Im getting ready to do my oil cooler and want to deleate my egr cooler if Im exempt from emissions
so for now its unplugged and Iv heard my fan come on
#23
I think, so what ever that means, the fan issue is on later models, 05 and up that had a newer flash installed. Some 04's have reported no EGR codes thrown when unplugging the valve. Newer models will. Then if I remember right, Ford added a fan issue for what ever reason. But, those were in the newer models.
Just like Ford added the "wrench light" thrown for ECT vs. EOT temp spread, but it doesn't work on 04's. (tsb 09-24-3)(it also does FICM low volts)
Just like Ford added the "wrench light" thrown for ECT vs. EOT temp spread, but it doesn't work on 04's. (tsb 09-24-3)(it also does FICM low volts)
#24
So I made it back home ok from East TX to Memphis before Easter. It happened to work out that the ambient temperature dropped to 55° as I was driving home. I was able to do about 70mph, my ECT was ~173° and my EOT was ~219°.
Last week I rounded up 2Qts of VC-9, a gallon each of Restore and Restore Plus, a couple of 5gal buckets with tops and some CPVC fittings to rig a pressure reservoir to backflush the oil cooler.
This past Sat I used the 5gal bucket rig with hot distilled water and some Restore Plus to backflush the oil cooler. It worked!
I'm sure it plugged right back up with the crap still in system, but that was just an experiment in between the ridiculous amount of storms we've been getting here in the Mid South to see if it would work. The weather is finally better so I'm getting back to it in earnest.
There is still so much crap in the system that I'm thinking of flushing with tap water from my garden hose to get the bulk of the stuff out and then follow up with distilled water.
BTW, I'm very curious to know if VC-9 is the same as Restore Plus. Why? Look at the cost difference:
1QT VC-9 from local dealer $23.85
1GALLON Restore Plus from local dealer $26.31 (or $6.58 per Qt.)
Last week I rounded up 2Qts of VC-9, a gallon each of Restore and Restore Plus, a couple of 5gal buckets with tops and some CPVC fittings to rig a pressure reservoir to backflush the oil cooler.
This past Sat I used the 5gal bucket rig with hot distilled water and some Restore Plus to backflush the oil cooler. It worked!
I'm sure it plugged right back up with the crap still in system, but that was just an experiment in between the ridiculous amount of storms we've been getting here in the Mid South to see if it would work. The weather is finally better so I'm getting back to it in earnest.
There is still so much crap in the system that I'm thinking of flushing with tap water from my garden hose to get the bulk of the stuff out and then follow up with distilled water.
BTW, I'm very curious to know if VC-9 is the same as Restore Plus. Why? Look at the cost difference:
1QT VC-9 from local dealer $23.85
1GALLON Restore Plus from local dealer $26.31 (or $6.58 per Qt.)
#26
I opened all the drains and stuffed the hose in where the thermistate goes and just let it flush I dont think the type of water is our problem
But maybe you could astick the hose in where you back flushed your oil cooler IDK
Id like to see if when you get it flushed if the spread will close
But maybe you could astick the hose in where you back flushed your oil cooler IDK
Id like to see if when you get it flushed if the spread will close
#28
me to.I did the restore and restore + flush and got temps 5* closer,but I'm still at 21* difference.if I were to do it again I would leave the t stat in to get it hot.I could barely get to 140-150ect,but my oil temps were 160-180. Also,I never got any goo,or black water,it always flushed clear.I will definitely give the back flush a try before I put antifreeze back in.can't wait to see those pics!.
#29
#30
Good job! So, you did use the Restore through that and not the Restore +. I wonder how your oil cooler looked before and after.
The Restore+ and VC-9 are supposed to be the same. The Restore is different. From what I understand.
Did you have the lower radiator hose off while back flushing the oil cooler?
Reps. to you!
The Restore+ and VC-9 are supposed to be the same. The Restore is different. From what I understand.
Did you have the lower radiator hose off while back flushing the oil cooler?
Reps. to you!