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Ok, so some of you saw my comment in another thread about the integrated brake controller and how I find it doesn't seem to function properly. I set up the gain setting as per the manual and no matter what, I cannot get the trailer brakes to lock up... even with the gain set to 10. I had similar issues on my last trailer as well.
I pulled all the wheels today and confirmed the brakes were clean, no signs of grease and that they were properly adjusted (2 wheels were a little looser than I would prefer). Anyway, after all this I take it out to set the IBC again and the same results. No wheel lock up even at a setting of 10. The brakes work, but not as well as they should.
Any thoughts? Is there a way to increase the current being sent by the brake controller to the trailer?
My trailer weighs about 12k lbs empty. I know some of you are pulling heavier and have your gain setting at around 8 or 8.5.
I set my brake gain at 6.5. If I set it higher, I can feel the trailer pulling on the truck. I just try to find the sweet spot where the truck brakes about the same whether I'm towing or not. I can definitely lock the tires if I use the manual slider and not the pedal. If I just reach over and squeeze the slider control together harshly, the trailer will yank hard and push me into my seat belt. They are effective little buggers.
I have noticed that when I take the trailer out of storage, if it has sat for any period of time, one or two of the wheels will lock and slide during the first brake application. Seems to be that they require some use to keep everything moving properly.
I'm wondering if you don't have issue with your wiring (ground, short)? I would think there should be enough gain to handle any of the trailers we pull.
When you use the manual slider, can you lock the brakes up doing a tug test? I wonder if you can check your wiring to the brake wiring. Maybe not getting power all the way to each wheel. Its also possible the controller is not working properly, have the dealer test it and ensure its working properly as it sounds like its not oerforming properly to me and you seem to have checked the trailer well.
Sounds like you could also have a problem with your brake magnets, did you check them?
My trailer's brakes are junk, I can lock them some of the time and other times they hardly activate. The trailer is only 3 1/2 years old, and I'm planning on pulling them apart in the next month or so to see what the problem is. I thought it could be wiring, but after rewiring the entire brake system nothing improved.
The brake controller controls voltage to the brakes, and the resistance within the system controls current. When you are at 10 you should see the full 12v going to the brake system, there is no way to send more power.
My Cedar Creek trailer brakes are chinese junk and sold under the Lippert brand. I have to keep my gain at 9.5 for any type of effective braking. Most likely (my best guess) is that it is on the trailer side vs. the Ford side.
Have you used a magnetic compass to check your trailer breaks? If not try holding a compass next to the breaks one at a time and have someone push down on the truck breaks. The compass should turn toward the break when activated.
I agree that the issue probably lies with the trailer and not the controller. If there is any braking happening, chances are that the controller is functioning properly. They're very simple gadgets. That said, anything is possible. Maybe have someone else hook up the same trailer on their truck with a different controller and see what happens.
As for my experience, I set my fiver with the cheapo lippert brakes to about 8.5-9 where my other (lighter, Wells Cargo) trailer is happy at 7.
Have you used a magnetic compass to check your trailer breaks? If not try holding a compass next to the breaks one at a time and have someone push down on the truck breaks. The compass should turn toward the break when activated.
You will have to press the manual levers. Ford set the auto brake controller to not do anything while not moving.
You will have to press the manual levers. Ford set the auto brake controller to not do anything while not moving.
Sam
Are you sure about that? I don't have any hard evidence, but the screen indicates that the trailer brakes are being applied when stopped, via the "gain" bar output. Plus, I could swear I've heard them release when taking off. Could be wrong though. Where did you get that piece of info?
Are you sure about that? I don't have any hard evidence, but the screen indicates that the trailer brakes are being applied when stopped, via the "gain" bar output. Plus, I could swear I've heard them release when taking off. Could be wrong though. Where did you get that piece of info?
at least on the earlier trucks (my 08)..
if I measure the brake wire while in park and step on the brake, I get nothing.. use the paddles I get something..
interesting. Not to nitpick, but is it only when in park? I assumed you meant stopped but in drive... I can't say that I've noticed the bar move in park. I'll check it the next time I have one of the trailers hooked up
interesting. Not to nitpick, but is it only when in park? I assumed you meant stopped but in drive... I can't say that I've noticed the bar move in park. I'll check it the next time I have one of the trailers hooked up
maybe in Park.. I would never test signals in drive with someone else near the trailer.
Great Danes...I seem to be having the same issue. Just bought the truck last Saturday and got the gooseneck hitch installed yesterday. Took my 2-horse trailer out for a spin empty and even with gain = 10 I could not get the brakes to lock. In my case, I know it is not an issue with the trailer brakes, since I just pulled it with my old 2001 with a Prodigy brake controller and have no issues there. So seems to be the controller.
I did notice on my display that while the gain was 10, the output did not reach full bar when using the brake pedal. I forget if squeezing the trigger manually would cause output = 10 or not, but I never did get the tires to lock up.
The trailer was empty and I only drove a few miles. Will be trailering with horses this weekend for 300 miles. Guess we'll see if I have a different experience with a loaded trailer. Maybe the controller compensates for weight?
This has been discussed many times before, just not in the 2011 forum. Ford IBC is setup so that at speeds less than 5 mph(or somewhere close to that), the IBC does little or nothing. this is for a comfort factor of not getting the neck jerk in stop/go traffic.
a lot of guys were complaining in early 2006 because they could no longer do the "tug" test when stopped. I typically do my adjustments at 10mph or little more(usually on side streets). My prior truck was a 2005 with the IBC and it was late in the 2005 MY that the change was made.
Just make your adjustments while moving, and you will be fine.
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