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Ok, thanks cheezit(and everyone else) I will take it to the garage space and let it sit overnight. The garage space is heated to 68 deg, I guess it should be left outside for testing perposes.
Use a good soldering iron. I tried mine first at home and my soldering iron doesn't get hot quick enough to have it flow properly. If the spot you are soldering is not shiny silver after, then it's a cold solder job and will not last. If it works at all. Leaving a small iron on the contact too long can also cause damage as you are not heating just the soldering spot, but also the components that you working on. Hence I left it to the two instructors. I know you soldered some of the posts, one bad one will still make the truck run like a POS. I did not do the upgrade. Personally believe in leaving the truck stock.
I will do the whole FICM voltage upgrade and test the harness and coils. I wasn't implying that all eight injectors were bad, just though if one or more was failing the others could be close behind and just replace all of them while I was in there. The truck drives ok, you can hardly tell anything is wrong around town(i can, but its subtle) just a little bit of smoke, on the highway in overdrive is when it rears its ugly head, bucking and jerking. Thanks again all, I really appreciate all the help.
If you have that many with coil issues I may replace the lot. with out going back threw the list iirc there are 6 bad and 2 good going off dtc's. at that point its cheeper to replace the 2 then it is to go back in and do more work if needed.
when buying injectors remeber that fords reman come with a 12/12 warranty and all you have to do is have an invoice and an injector to get a warranty on it over the counter at anyone of 3500 dealers that will still have there doors open next year.
So Cheezit, if it comes down to the injectors, you are recommending Ford remans? Whats the price difference between Ford remans and Ford New? Sorry for the stupid questions. Im pretty good with my 5.0 Cobra, but this diesel thing has been a very costly experiment.
I agree, Dont know what rep points are either but Matt deserves a lot of whatever they are. I have gone through my FICM and resoldered anything that looked suspect(upgrade parts not readily accessable at my local raidio shack) with no improvement. I hooked my AE up this morning and it threw a FICM performance code. Did the buzz test and only two injectors clicked with 48v on FICM. Started the truck and let it warm up for 15min and did buzz test again and all clicked fine and no FICM code WTF? Drove it and light blueish smoke and bucking under a slight load.
Update: Unable to get an FICM I could try out I bought a reman FICM from GB. I checked injector harness for any chaffing, everything looked good. Installed FICM(it comes pre-programed) crossed my fingers and took it for a test drive...Same issues, bucking and jerking. Hooked truck up to AE this am and got no codes. DId the buzz test and cylinder 2 and 8 failed to click. Warmed truck up, did test again all eight passed. Im really at a loss here. Two things I don't know if they play in here at all, my alternator(newer reman) gets really really hot very quickly too hot to touch. AE and DVOmeter say its putting out 13v. And after my test drive i was pretty pissed and took truck on back roads and basically drove it like i stole it...seemed to run smoother afterwards..?? I live two miles from work so the truck never really gets to warm all the way up and i rarely drive it hard...could that somehow be causeing or adding to my problems??? Thanks all
Is your egr valve still hooked up? Try a different egr valve. Brothers truck passed egr test on IDS(barely),but would buck,jerk,smoke on driving sometimes. Changed egr and all is perfect 10k miles later. Otherwise its still ficm related probably. Does it get better when hot?
I don't know if I was supposed to do anything special to unhook the EGR valve, it seemed to be operating and I just unplugged it when the truck was off. I was under the impression that the valve fails to the open position and thats the state you would want it in while disconnected. It runs the same whether its hooked up or not. It runs the same hot or cold its a stutter/shudder/buck/jerk in final gear highway speeds. Seemed to get a little better after I dogged the **** out of it for a while out of frustration.
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