Por-15
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,489
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From: Valley Center, CA
Por-15
Has anybody used the Por-15 Metal Ready? I am fixing some spots in my old primer where the rust spots are starting. I sanded the primer off down to nice clean metal. Then I applied the Metal Ready and let it set overnight just like the instructions directed. The next day I washed it off with water. A slight film developed on the various locations I had treated. Some were white, some were golden tan and some were a rainbow of colors. The supplier says this is normal. He claims that it is a coating of zinc phosphate(?) that sometimes appears as diffetrent colors. Has anybody else used this product? It is supposedly a muriatic acid solution with, I believe, a mix of zinc phosphate to create the final coating on the bare metal. 
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,119
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From: Southern New Hampshire
Por-15
Spend some time reading the info on www.zerorust.com Then explore some of the links, especially to www.autobodystore.com forum where lots of pro bodymen hang out.
I sell ZeroRust so Im biased but the only reason I sell it was after several POR problems and horrible customer support. Found ZR by accident.
I sell ZeroRust so Im biased but the only reason I sell it was after several POR problems and horrible customer support. Found ZR by accident.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
Likes: 13
From: Littleton, New Hampshire
Por-15
286,
Is zero-rust comparable to POR-15? I was thinking about wire brushing my frame and then painting it with something like POR-15. Would zero rust work the same? Can you weld on it or do I need to complete all the welding first?
Is zero-rust comparable to POR-15? I was thinking about wire brushing my frame and then painting it with something like POR-15. Would zero rust work the same? Can you weld on it or do I need to complete all the welding first?
Admom
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 9,414
Likes: 201
From: Silver Springs
Por-15
Hi John - I'd welcome you to the Bodywork forum, but "You Didn't Check With Us There".
I've used Metal Ready quite a bit and what you described is exactly what it does. I haven't had any problems and have no complaints about any of the POR products I've used.
(And no - I don't sell them.)
As 67Pearl mentioned, do a search through the Bodywork forum and you'll find a lot of info on the subject.
Vern, you slipped in on me.
Do the welding first if you can. If you need to throw paint on first, you'll need to wire brush the area you're gonna weld later to get you back to the metal.
I've used Metal Ready quite a bit and what you described is exactly what it does. I haven't had any problems and have no complaints about any of the POR products I've used.
(And no - I don't sell them.)
As 67Pearl mentioned, do a search through the Bodywork forum and you'll find a lot of info on the subject.
Vern, you slipped in on me.
Do the welding first if you can. If you need to throw paint on first, you'll need to wire brush the area you're gonna weld later to get you back to the metal.
Last edited by Carlene; Mar 20, 2003 at 08:24 AM.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2002
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From: Northwest Fl
Por-15
I would do the welding, blast the frame and then apply the POR. Por 15 is not a weld through type paint, more like a epoxy. Also they do not recommend wire brushing a frame to remove the rust. Blasting or grinding is the method of choice since they do not close the pores in the metal like brushing does (Better adhesion).
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Valley Center, CA
Por-15
Thanks for the feedback. I feel much more confident now.
I will check out the bodywork forum. I am just too focused and stuck in my ways I guess, I just keep coming to the regular old hangouts. I'll see you there Carlene! Thanks again, John
I will check out the bodywork forum. I am just too focused and stuck in my ways I guess, I just keep coming to the regular old hangouts. I'll see you there Carlene! Thanks again, John
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Ventura County, CA
Por-15
I used POR-15 on the frame, underside, and cab of my truck. Works pretty good IF you follow all 3 steps. I forgot a step on the roof of the interior of the cab. When I went to put the DynaMat on, it peeled the POR-15 right off. Dowt! My bad....
Another boner from yours truly...
Daryl
Another boner from yours truly...
Daryl
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,119
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From: Southern New Hampshire
Por-15
Vern, ZR is nothing like POR15.
It forms an impervious chemical bond with rust but yet is applied like a paint because it is. It is not a "converter" nor is it a thick epoxy carpet like POR that doesnt look very good on a frame or other visible metal.
ZR goes on in very thin coats, it doesnt have to suffocate the rust; it can be welded thru, repaired, painted over and anything else you can do with a paint. Use it as a base coat, top coat (comes in 10 colors) or paint over with just about anything.
It is now being used by performance suspension companies as they have found it to be very durable and looks great.
Out our way, Ive been selling to truck, landscape, and snow plow outfits that have been very dissapointed with POR15. Lots of repeat business as new equipment is added.
90+ % of my ZR sales is Industrial. Shade tree mechanics are slow to catch up to technology as POR has done a good job keeping them uneducated.
or is it brainwashed?
It forms an impervious chemical bond with rust but yet is applied like a paint because it is. It is not a "converter" nor is it a thick epoxy carpet like POR that doesnt look very good on a frame or other visible metal.
ZR goes on in very thin coats, it doesnt have to suffocate the rust; it can be welded thru, repaired, painted over and anything else you can do with a paint. Use it as a base coat, top coat (comes in 10 colors) or paint over with just about anything.
It is now being used by performance suspension companies as they have found it to be very durable and looks great.
Out our way, Ive been selling to truck, landscape, and snow plow outfits that have been very dissapointed with POR15. Lots of repeat business as new equipment is added.
90+ % of my ZR sales is Industrial. Shade tree mechanics are slow to catch up to technology as POR has done a good job keeping them uneducated.
or is it brainwashed?
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 551
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From: USA
Por-15
I'm interested in the differences too since I'm about to coat my frame, springs, and a few other items with something.
I'm particulary interested in whether zero-rust is flexible enough to last after being applied to coil and/or leaf springs and also chip resistant enough to be used on undercarriage stuff that will be exposed to alot of rocks/gravel/etc.
I'm particulary interested in whether zero-rust is flexible enough to last after being applied to coil and/or leaf springs and also chip resistant enough to be used on undercarriage stuff that will be exposed to alot of rocks/gravel/etc.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,119
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From: Southern New Hampshire
Por-15
As far as flexible is concerned it is better than regular paint in that respect. It is not brittle.
As far as chip resistant, the suspension companies that are using it believe so. Is it as chip resistant as POR? No, not unless you put it on in as many layers as POR which defeats the the original purpose; killing rust with very thin coats and looking like a real paint job.
POR looks pretty hokey, especially when brushed on and you cant spray it without an air suit.
I did the front suspension, 4 backing plates (both sides), wheel cylinders, hardware and drums on my 68 Impala about 15K miles ago and it still looks fine. I wasnt doing a resto, just wanted to keep it from deterioating until I got around to a frame off which now isnt going to happen, I enjoy driving it too much. ZR, once cured, is not affected by brake fluid, POR is. I dribbled lots of brake fluid trying to get those damn brakes working properly as proof!
Industrial customers include utility companies, trucking outfits and construction equipment. They all seem pretty happy about the durability.
As far as chip resistant, the suspension companies that are using it believe so. Is it as chip resistant as POR? No, not unless you put it on in as many layers as POR which defeats the the original purpose; killing rust with very thin coats and looking like a real paint job.
POR looks pretty hokey, especially when brushed on and you cant spray it without an air suit.
I did the front suspension, 4 backing plates (both sides), wheel cylinders, hardware and drums on my 68 Impala about 15K miles ago and it still looks fine. I wasnt doing a resto, just wanted to keep it from deterioating until I got around to a frame off which now isnt going to happen, I enjoy driving it too much. ZR, once cured, is not affected by brake fluid, POR is. I dribbled lots of brake fluid trying to get those damn brakes working properly as proof!
Industrial customers include utility companies, trucking outfits and construction equipment. They all seem pretty happy about the durability.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 288
Likes: 0
From: Agua Dulce, So. Calif.
Por-15
Originally posted by Ken2600
I'm interested in the differences too since I'm about to coat my frame, springs, and a few other items with something.
I'm particulary interested in whether zero-rust is flexible enough to last after being applied to coil and/or leaf springs and also chip resistant enough to be used on undercarriage stuff that will be exposed to alot of rocks/gravel/etc.
I'm interested in the differences too since I'm about to coat my frame, springs, and a few other items with something.
I'm particulary interested in whether zero-rust is flexible enough to last after being applied to coil and/or leaf springs and also chip resistant enough to be used on undercarriage stuff that will be exposed to alot of rocks/gravel/etc.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 589
Likes: 2
From: Crossroads of America-Ind
Por-15
I certainly can't dispute your comments about Zero-Rust, I have never tried it. I have heard nothing BUT good about it though, and intend to try some soon. I would however say that in the years and years that I have used POR-15, I've never once seen the need to spray it as it leaves such a fine finish and goes on so well by simply brushing it on. (no waste or mess due to overspray either) The only time I've ever seen brush marks is when you go over it again after it has started to take a set. When applied according to directions, Iv'e never seen it look "Hokey".
Your milege may vary. Later, Phil
=============================================
<"POR looks pretty hokey, especially when brushed on and you cant spray it without an air suit >"
Your milege may vary. Later, Phil
=============================================
<"POR looks pretty hokey, especially when brushed on and you cant spray it without an air suit >"