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With the big cap and 9mm wires, you should be able to go .060" easy, not sure how points figure into the picture, have to think about it.
Curious what kind of voltage the coil is seeing now. Did it specify a ballast resistor? With the points closed and key on, measure between the + terminal of the coil and engine ground.
Wow! I was thinking the electronics had a lot to do with how wide you could go on the gap. Being able to supply sufficient power to jump the wider gap...
About the coil voltage - I read that Ford's normally used a resistance wire and if so the wire would be pink and the factory coil would measure less than 3-4 ohms (no internal resistance). I had a pink wire and my coil measured less than two ohms so I assumed that was a resistance wire and used it for the new coil.
The reason I'm asking is I put a Crane XRi, big cap adaptor, Accel heavy duty cap and rotor, Ford Racing 9mm wires on two weeks ago but I'm not satisified with how the assembly is working when the vacuum advance pulls. It's not smooth and appears to be lifting up on the side opposite the advance arm. So I was going to go back to points and see how much difference it made in the mileage... but figured I'd need to re-gap the plugs. Apparently not since I gapped them @ 55 thousandths.
On a side note, I complained to Crane about the problems I had installing the XRi and about my dissatisfaction with the operation... and they're sending me a HI 6S and an optical trigger free! Don't think I'm interested in using it if anyone's interested in buying it.
The electronics does have a lot to do with it. I mean't to say the big cap and wires are good for that gap. Thinking more about the points, you won't be able to saturate the coil at higher rpms with that gap. The points aren't closed long enough and they arc a tiny bit on opening which lowers the secondary voltage too. That's one thing solid state does for you, instant switching off and on for full saturation.