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Apr 12, 2011 | 09:25 PM

Melbatoast

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Header question.

Ok here is the skinny for those that don't know. I have a 76 f-150 4x4 with a 390 and an automatic. I am installing headers (flowtech), long tube. And was wondering If anyone else has gone through this. I have always ran chevys cause parts were cheap. And everyone I know has chevy's. So parts are everywhere for me.

But My old man was a ford man. And I saw the light through Lincolns, the mark 8 to be specific.

I have to pull the motor mount out of the passenger side to install the header. And was wondering if these headers will clear the factory starter? I am also wondering what the torque specs are. Maybe I should read the paperwork that came with them.

Apr 12, 2011 | 11:33 PM

co425

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Nope. You have to pull the starter and the passenger motor mount and motor mount stand. My flowtechs also hit the oil pan. I also had to cut the passenger side flange in half. Not a great recipe for a good sealing set of headers. I will never buy that brand again. Make sure you use anti sieze on the bolts.

Apr 13, 2011 | 02:55 AM

7Ford6

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I have the same truck.. Started with 18 Gauge Headmans (Rusted Thru) and Just Replaced those with thicker 16 Gauge Hookers.. I eventually replaced the heat wrapped stock starter with a mini re-using the same heat wrap I used trying to prolong the stock starters life... Gets real hot right there close to the tubes... With out looking it up, I think the torque on the bolts was like 13 or so foot pounds.. Whatever it was, I torqued them to the stock manifold spec in the book.... some of the lower bolts I was never able to use a torque wrench, only hand tight.. A real P.I.T.A. job if you ask me..

Apr 13, 2011 | 08:30 PM

Melbatoast

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Quote:

Originally Posted by co425

I can't for the life of me figure out why you would have to remove all that shat. I think if I lift the motor enough and pull the motor mount out I will have enough room to put it through. And I can't figure out why I should cut it.

I did finally read the instructions that came with them. And yes I read the cut it part. I don't like that, but don't see it necessary to do.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 7Ford6

I think the torque on the bolts was like 13 or so foot pounds.. Whatever it was, I torqued them to the stock manifold spec in the book.... some of the lower bolts I was never able to use a torque wrench, only hand tight.. A real P.I.T.A. job if you ask me..

Thank you for a lead on the torque spec. And I forgot to put antiseize on them so I will be heading back to the truck soon

. And doing that.

Apr 13, 2011 | 09:06 PM

co425

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You dont have to remove the pan. My headers just hit them. You can get the pass header in if you lift the motor off of the shell and remove the rubber mount. I still had to cut the flange though. It may be a different situation on a f250 4x4. I figured it would be the same on your f150.

Apr 13, 2011 | 09:21 PM

Melbatoast

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Why did you have to cut the flange exactly? And I definitely Have done headers enough on other things to know I shouldn't pull the pan.

If I have to I will yank the whole damn motor. That would be a little extreme, I know. But I really don't see it coming to that. And I really don't know why I need to cut it.

Apr 14, 2011 | 01:52 AM

77&79F250

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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county

Why didn't you just get some fenderwell exit header's and have alot better time putting them on?

Never again will I run inside the frame type headers or cheap ones either for all the above statements.