edlebrock tuning blues
#1
edlebrock tuning blues
just bought a 86 f-350 drw 351w.. edlebrock 1405.
among all the things i am getting sorted out on her is the carb.
she had bad wiring and replaced it all. bad coil ,ect.
the guy who sold it to me said it was a 351m but its a windsor.
anyway the motor runs rich. after new plugs and plugwires and fixing the rotted connections and a new coil it has great fire.
timing is right and leaking vacuum lines replaced.
after getting it sorted out it still runs rich.
no more soot in the tailpipe after a better spark but reading the new plugs they are a little rich.
i read the online owners manual for the 1405 and it had me confused so i called their tech line.
the 1451 /70x47 is the metering rod it comes with.
they said to go to the 1450/ 70x42 to go one step leaner.
i got the rod and compared it to the 1451 and the 1450 is a smaller diameter rod.
i think that they told me wrong but i put it in.
on my bikes , to go leaner you have a fatter needle jet (metering rod)
the fatter and longer it is the more fuel it restricks.
my fuel mpg went from 8 to 7 and the plugs are reading richer.
how do you read the metering rod chart?
is the part# 1451 70x 47 the 70 the length and the 47 the diameter?
if the 47 is the diameter i should have gone to #1452 070x 52 witch should be leaner right?
its jett is a 100 and the next step down is a 98.
help please i think they are wrong
among all the things i am getting sorted out on her is the carb.
she had bad wiring and replaced it all. bad coil ,ect.
the guy who sold it to me said it was a 351m but its a windsor.
anyway the motor runs rich. after new plugs and plugwires and fixing the rotted connections and a new coil it has great fire.
timing is right and leaking vacuum lines replaced.
after getting it sorted out it still runs rich.
no more soot in the tailpipe after a better spark but reading the new plugs they are a little rich.
i read the online owners manual for the 1405 and it had me confused so i called their tech line.
the 1451 /70x47 is the metering rod it comes with.
they said to go to the 1450/ 70x42 to go one step leaner.
i got the rod and compared it to the 1451 and the 1450 is a smaller diameter rod.
i think that they told me wrong but i put it in.
on my bikes , to go leaner you have a fatter needle jet (metering rod)
the fatter and longer it is the more fuel it restricks.
my fuel mpg went from 8 to 7 and the plugs are reading richer.
how do you read the metering rod chart?
is the part# 1451 70x 47 the 70 the length and the 47 the diameter?
if the 47 is the diameter i should have gone to #1452 070x 52 witch should be leaner right?
its jett is a 100 and the next step down is a 98.
help please i think they are wrong
#2
70 is the low speed (fat part) diameter. 47 is the this (power) diameter. By keeping the .070 dia large section, you haven't changed anything yet. try going up to a .072 or .075 on the fat part of the rod. Maybe .047 or .052 on the power section IE: 075x52
I ran the lowedt number set when I had my 1407 750cfm carb on my 460. When I put it on my 351W, I think i went with the largest number rods for now. I have the calibration kit with the jets, rods and springs. I would also use the stiffest/ highest number springs under the rod pistons as a starting point.
I ran the lowedt number set when I had my 1407 750cfm carb on my 460. When I put it on my 351W, I think i went with the largest number rods for now. I have the calibration kit with the jets, rods and springs. I would also use the stiffest/ highest number springs under the rod pistons as a starting point.
#3
thanks for the info.
that makes sense because the rod was the same length, but the one i bought had a longer taper at the end.
it doesnt need a big change , not sure if i need to go to the #98 jet.
i rarely get it over 2 grand .
if i had the time and money i would change intakes and put on a 2150 2bbl.
you dont happen to know if there is a adapter plate ro go back to a 2bbl?
that makes sense because the rod was the same length, but the one i bought had a longer taper at the end.
it doesnt need a big change , not sure if i need to go to the #98 jet.
i rarely get it over 2 grand .
if i had the time and money i would change intakes and put on a 2150 2bbl.
you dont happen to know if there is a adapter plate ro go back to a 2bbl?
#5
you say mister gasket does?
what is it spread bore to 2bbl? what carb did you use 2150 motorcraft?
i looked at autozone ,orielleys, and advance and all i saw were spreadbore to square bore.
basicaly like i have know to put a edy on a stock manfold .
or to put a holly on a edy manifold.
if you have the part 3 let me know.
i dont care for the edy but due to lack of funds i cant afford to do much.
i can get a 2150 for $25 at the junkyard and rebuild it.
i will sell the edy if i can get a better set-up
what is it spread bore to 2bbl? what carb did you use 2150 motorcraft?
i looked at autozone ,orielleys, and advance and all i saw were spreadbore to square bore.
basicaly like i have know to put a edy on a stock manfold .
or to put a holly on a edy manifold.
if you have the part 3 let me know.
i dont care for the edy but due to lack of funds i cant afford to do much.
i can get a 2150 for $25 at the junkyard and rebuild it.
i will sell the edy if i can get a better set-up
#7
thanks for the link.
i found that same one on line yesterday.
forgive my ignoance about ford v8motors. i know the 300 six .
but i thought that the windsor motor was a spread bore on the 4bbl intake.
that same one i found says it does not fit the spread bore.
i have a adapter on it now for the edlebrock.
i thought the edy was square bore and my adapter is spread bore to square.
i found that same one on line yesterday.
forgive my ignoance about ford v8motors. i know the 300 six .
but i thought that the windsor motor was a spread bore on the 4bbl intake.
that same one i found says it does not fit the spread bore.
i have a adapter on it now for the edlebrock.
i thought the edy was square bore and my adapter is spread bore to square.
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#8
update
i tried the 73x52 rods .... big differance
it accelerates better steady on cruise and i put 5 gallons in witch put it on the 1/4 mark 17 miles later its still on the 1/4.
before it would have been on the empty .
plugs look good and i may beable to go leaner. gonna stick with this for a week and see..
i got the egr working comming on at about 1500 rpm and droping when you hit the throttle. went junkyarding and come up with a few delay valves and played with the combination.
i got to reading the chart for the jets and rods and after having some sleep i t was easy stay in the angled gray section to the out side edge you chang the power and the more angled or parallel to the gray is even amouts on both cruise and power.
thank-you every one for the help...... m ike fox
it accelerates better steady on cruise and i put 5 gallons in witch put it on the 1/4 mark 17 miles later its still on the 1/4.
before it would have been on the empty .
plugs look good and i may beable to go leaner. gonna stick with this for a week and see..
i got the egr working comming on at about 1500 rpm and droping when you hit the throttle. went junkyarding and come up with a few delay valves and played with the combination.
i got to reading the chart for the jets and rods and after having some sleep i t was easy stay in the angled gray section to the out side edge you chang the power and the more angled or parallel to the gray is even amouts on both cruise and power.
thank-you every one for the help...... m ike fox
#10
#11
#12
up date
ok i tried the 73x52 metering rod ..... much improved.
drove to work all week and pulld the plugs to read.
they now have color redish tan still slightly rich but better.
the plugs before were not wet fouling but close no color except for black deep inside the inso;ator.
looking at the electrode the timing is right and i have color on 2 threads.
so that tells me the heat range is right.
i used the 73x52 with the stock 100 jet, witch means i increased the the rod 3 thousands.
from looking at the graph my next step would be either a 75 x47 rod or a
98 jet.
that would be a increase of 2thousands.
the three thousands increase made a big differance , and i think another2
would be to much.
can i go leaner on the cruse mode and power with a weaker step-up spring?
or is that just for accelleration or power mode?
i have no bog or surge except for wot.
then it bogs for about 3 sec and takes off.
that may be cured with accell pump, its on the shortest stroke now.
drove to work all week and pulld the plugs to read.
they now have color redish tan still slightly rich but better.
the plugs before were not wet fouling but close no color except for black deep inside the inso;ator.
looking at the electrode the timing is right and i have color on 2 threads.
so that tells me the heat range is right.
i used the 73x52 with the stock 100 jet, witch means i increased the the rod 3 thousands.
from looking at the graph my next step would be either a 75 x47 rod or a
98 jet.
that would be a increase of 2thousands.
the three thousands increase made a big differance , and i think another2
would be to much.
can i go leaner on the cruse mode and power with a weaker step-up spring?
or is that just for accelleration or power mode?
i have no bog or surge except for wot.
then it bogs for about 3 sec and takes off.
that may be cured with accell pump, its on the shortest stroke now.
#13
As for the bog, try different holes in the pump arm.
The springs just control at what vacuum that the rods overcome the vacuum and raise up into the power setting. I usually use the lowest vacuum spring so that it takes longer for the rods to raise into the power mode.
I am assuming that you have the vacuum advance hooked to the left front port on the carb and you have at least 10* timing with no vacuum to the advance?
You can try the 98 jets with your current rods. If it leans out too much it will possibly have a part throttle surge and may possibly start pinging.If so, go back to the 100's.
The springs just control at what vacuum that the rods overcome the vacuum and raise up into the power setting. I usually use the lowest vacuum spring so that it takes longer for the rods to raise into the power mode.
I am assuming that you have the vacuum advance hooked to the left front port on the carb and you have at least 10* timing with no vacuum to the advance?
You can try the 98 jets with your current rods. If it leans out too much it will possibly have a part throttle surge and may possibly start pinging.If so, go back to the 100's.
#14
yep i have everything hooked and checked out.
the spring are probably good , it just takes a light touch to go to power mode.
i was hoping they were like my amel carbs .
they have four notches to set the needle or metering rod at.
that gives you slight adjustment between needle sizes.
the plugs are just a hair rich ...slight adjust ment is needed.
they really dont have a set-up for slight incrament.
i would need like a 99 jet or a 74x52 rod.
well i will try the 98 and see hopefully it wont be too lean.
the spring are probably good , it just takes a light touch to go to power mode.
i was hoping they were like my amel carbs .
they have four notches to set the needle or metering rod at.
that gives you slight adjustment between needle sizes.
the plugs are just a hair rich ...slight adjust ment is needed.
they really dont have a set-up for slight incrament.
i would need like a 99 jet or a 74x52 rod.
well i will try the 98 and see hopefully it wont be too lean.
#15
update
got a day off due to rain.
so i ordered the 98 jet from oreillys.
they had it at the store in about four hours.
got to love that....
anyway i pulled the carb apart to pull the jets.
they have them in a tight spot, in a receded place.
i cut down a screwdriver on the grinder for a perfect fit, and they came right out.
i couldnt pick them up so i used a piece of mig welding wire, with a hook in it. ibent the hook and pushed it throught the oriface anpulled it out.
they went in ok and put the top and linkage back together.
so now i have the 98 jets and the 73x52 rods.
witch means i have about 25 thousands gap for the fuel to flow through.
turns out to be about perfect. the truck runs great.. no bog or surge.
and even the exhaust sounds better... smells good too.
checked the plugs after a while and they tanned up fine.
the only bog is off the line and using wot.
off the line using light or moderate is fine.
slight accel without the power mode is good.
i may try to change the secondaries but for now it is fine.
if i wot after 12-20 mph she is great...i am not dragracing anyway.
besides with slight pedal in powermode takeoff she will burn rubber.
so i ordered the 98 jet from oreillys.
they had it at the store in about four hours.
got to love that....
anyway i pulled the carb apart to pull the jets.
they have them in a tight spot, in a receded place.
i cut down a screwdriver on the grinder for a perfect fit, and they came right out.
i couldnt pick them up so i used a piece of mig welding wire, with a hook in it. ibent the hook and pushed it throught the oriface anpulled it out.
they went in ok and put the top and linkage back together.
so now i have the 98 jets and the 73x52 rods.
witch means i have about 25 thousands gap for the fuel to flow through.
turns out to be about perfect. the truck runs great.. no bog or surge.
and even the exhaust sounds better... smells good too.
checked the plugs after a while and they tanned up fine.
the only bog is off the line and using wot.
off the line using light or moderate is fine.
slight accel without the power mode is good.
i may try to change the secondaries but for now it is fine.
if i wot after 12-20 mph she is great...i am not dragracing anyway.
besides with slight pedal in powermode takeoff she will burn rubber.