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Clutch "safety" switch

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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 01:18 PM
  #1  
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Clutch "safety" switch

Seems that more and more pressurer is needed while depressing my clutch to get the starter to engage. I took a peek under there and noticed a small wire going to the parking brake pedal. Is there a way to lose this "safety" switch? I have enough knowledge with manual transmissions to know not to start the truck up in gear. I'm pretty sure this truck could cause some serious property damage if started in gear in a garage, etc. Some injuries prevent me from being twisted and upside down but I need a fix because I have to pull on the steering wheel to get enough foot pressure to start the truck. It's so bad that I consider it a theft deterrent...
 

Last edited by Major Marvin; Apr 12, 2011 at 01:19 PM. Reason: Spelling
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 03:15 PM
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Sort of answering my own question but it seems that some triflow sprayed on the shaft and around the switch seems to help the situation.. phew.. don't want to get stuck anywhere, except maybe the Dallas Cowboy Cheerleader tryouts..
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 08:16 PM
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F350-6
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Originally Posted by Major Marvin
.. don't want to get stuck anywhere, except maybe the Dallas Cowboy Cheerleader tryouts..
If you get stuck there give me a call. I'll come help you be stuck.

There are just some springs inside the switch that tend to break when they get old. I think I got my new switch for around $30 from Autozoo.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by F350-6
If you get stuck there give me a call. I'll come help you be stuck.

There are just some springs inside the switch that tend to break when they get old. I think I got my new switch for around $30 from Autozoo.
I'll let you know about the cheer leaders

I'm hoping the Triflow at least fixed it for the moment since I don't have the part and have never changed one before. I'm not opposed to learning though..
 
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 06:50 PM
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The switch just snaps on the rod between the firewall and the pedal. There's a U shaped piece that comes off one side that acts as a clip to hold the sensor on the shaft. Then unplug the connector and reverse the procedure. The hardest part is twisting into the right position to reach it.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by F350-6
The switch just snaps on the rod between the firewall and the pedal. There's a U shaped piece that comes off one side that acts as a clip to hold the sensor on the shaft. Then unplug the connector and reverse the procedure. The hardest part is twisting into the right position to reach it.
Looks like I will need to buy the switch. It's up to it's old tricks..
 
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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 01:11 AM
  #7  
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If you wild like to bypass the saftey switch cut and splice the 4 wires, tape the black wire up by itself and the other 3 wires need to be taped and spliced together. The black wire is what triggers the starter and the other 3 are the ignition. I just did this the other day because I broke mine and unplugging it didn't do the trick.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 09:51 AM
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Cool Rider,

Thanks.

I haven't gone out to look but there are only 4 wires to deal with? Tie 3 together except the black wire? Just confirming.

Thanks again
 
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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 10:00 AM
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One other thing to consider is the plastic bushing that fits into the eye of the master pushrod. If that thing is shot or missing, you won't get a full stroke on the pushrod due to the slop.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 10:07 AM
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There is some slop at that joint. I was curious about that when I was under there last. That also may be why I'm grinding while shifting into 4th from time to time? Either way, where can I get that bushing and is it a pita to change?

Thanks everyone.. This site keeps or trucks tight!
 
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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 10:22 AM
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Bingo. Get it from the Ford parts counter, it's a piece of cake to swap it out. The new one just snaps in.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 11:08 AM
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Do you have a part number or a description so the parts counter knows what I need? I'm sure they have schematics but I'd like to avoid any problems. Thanks again... Saying this forum rocks is an understatement. I've never seen a better forum or site.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by MagKarl
One other thing to consider is the plastic bushing that fits into the eye of the master pushrod. If that thing is shot or missing, you won't get a full stroke on the pushrod due to the slop.
That is your problem I would bet.
There is a better fix and it is permanent.
FORD Clutch FIX, Rod End PERMANENT FIX powerstroke too | eBay


Did I say permanent. Do this and you are done for life.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 11:44 AM
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Major Marvin
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Originally Posted by Neal 97 250
That is your problem I would bet.
There is a better fix and it is permanent.
FORD Clutch FIX, Rod End PERMANENT FIX powerstroke too | eBay


Did I say permanent. Do this and you are done for life.
Looks like a solid fix.. I need to do do this in the least expensive way possible for the moment. I will go for this mod at a later date.. Thanks for the heads up..
 
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Old Apr 16, 2011 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by MagKarl
Bingo. Get it from the Ford parts counter, it's a piece of cake to swap it out. The new one just snaps in.
I went to the stealership yesterday and bought the bushing.. I thought it would be made of platinum for 9 bucks, over 10 with tax... . I changed out the bushing in their parking lot and voila, good as new! Thanks again folks!

They had some 15W40 Motorcraft synthetic oil on the shelf so I asked the price. Take a guess... $50.00 a gallon!!! I got real quiet so he came back and said that he could give it to me for $36.00 a gallon... I think I'll stick with my 12 dollar a gallon Mobil oil from Walmart... Geeze Louise.....
 
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