Hey everyone, just had a question for you all. I have a 2005 Ford escape, 2.3L i4 Fwd auto. Unfortunately, it seems as though my engine has died on me. After hearing a bit of clicking from the engine, i heard a loud boom and the car stalled and wouldn't turn over. According to the ford dealership, the engine has no compression and will be $6000 to replace with a used engine or $10000 with a new.
I have a friend who would be able to do the replacement with another 2.3l i4 for about $3700 but was wondering since i can get a 3.0l v6 from another 2005 escape for a lot cheaper, how hard would it be to replace the 2.3l in my escape with the 3.0l v6?

Thanks!
~HaWk16

 

Replacing a I-4 with a V-6 is not feasible.

$6K used/$10K new engines .............. are they freakin' CRAZY ?

A used 2.3L, VIN Z engine runs around $1800-$2200 here, FYI.

 

Not questioning your reply, just curious as to why the v6 swap wouldn't be feasible?

I don't know where the original poster is from, but we've got several "u-pull-n-save" junk yards around where I live... each one has several v6 Escapes in various stages of disrepair. Most of them have the engine/trans gone, but have all the parts necessary for a 4cyl -> v6 swap, such as the axles/engine wire harness/computer/subframe assy, as well as shifter cables for the CD4E. ....parts that are generally very cheap from these types of yards.

I bought my 2002 V6 Escape as a salvage vehicle and put a new subframe under it, its not that difficult or expensive. ALSO, SINCE the 3.0L Duratec from the Taurus/Sable are so prevalent (2000-2005 Taurus/Sable Duratecs are the same as our Escape V6), its not difficult to find (a complete one) with 20-50k miles for around $400!

Here's some info on the differences between different year 3.0L Duratec engines:
Rebuilding the Ford 3.0L: Engine Builder


The only real pricey item would be the tranny (the CD4E). The 2wd versions are cheaper than the 4wd versions, but are still pricey IMO. The 4cyl CD4E (auto trans.), I'm not 100% sure of, may not have the larger OD band/heavier duty kevlar lined clutches and thicker output chain as the ones behind the V6 HOWEVER it does share the same bellhousing pattern and will bolt up to the V6 just fine. I'd do more research in regards to the auto trans differences before bolting the 4cyl CD4E up to the V6.



Unless I'm missing something (very possible) I can't see why it would be that difficult or even expensive to do this swap.... if you can do the labor yourself. I guess if you've got to pay a shop to do it, since finding a reliable/honest shop is hard to impossible then yeah, it probably wouldn't be cost effective. If you could do the swap, you'd have the benefit of paying 4cyl insurance though

 

I have no idea about all that it would take, but will underscore the cheapness of 3.0 Duratecs from Taurus/Sables. My nephew has a 2002 Sable and by some fluke the engine put a rod thru the side of the block(!?) last year. His shop was talking about a full rebuilt motor for $4000, but I found him a junkyard motor with 65k miles or so (car had 125k) for $650, and with installation labor, the total was $18-1900. Less than something like a trans rebuild and well worth it to keep the car going.

It would obviously cost more to adapt a V6 to a 4 cylinder Escape, but seems to me that it might be very cost-effective in the end. Duratecs are cheap in junkyards because there are a lot of Taurus/Sables out there and Duratecs don't have problems very often.

Good luck,
George

 

I used to work for Linamar, a company that does all the rough machining (cnc cylinder deck, drill/tap necessary holes and resin impregnate the blocks), basically preparing the D30 (3.0L Duratec) for assembly at Fords Cleveland assembly plant. We also prep the D35 TDi and D37Ti-VCT (dub'd the Cyclone engine line) for assembly at Fords Lima Ohio assembly plant. I guess my point is that all the engines are assembled at the same plant, then shipped off to the individual chassis specific locations for installation in the vehicles. So the same quality control (or lack there-of) and assembly procedures are the same for each engine and are not vehicle specific. I will say that there are two foundries that cast the blocks... one of which has horrible porosity and core shift characteristics (cough JL-French, cough).


And I agree, I'd definitely consider the swap, unless I had to pay someone else labor or I'm missing something that makes it not feasible(?).

 

All I can add is that $6k for used and $10k for new are definite stimulants to buy a new vehicle. Or a different vehicle. Maybe your mechanic wanted you to declare surrender and give him the car to pay for his 'diagnostic' work... And then, he'd go to Fred's Boneyard and snarf up a Duratec for $300[at his cost] and have hisself a nice ride for next to nada.
I am honestly astounded at the quote given. No matter where you live, you could ship it to Dearborn and have a factory engine installed and still have some change left over at that price.
IMO. Of course. Worth !exactly! what you pay for it...
tom

 

Only way I'd suggest it would be to buy a total and put them side by side, PROVIDED you can do the work yourself. What I'd do and what I'd recommend to someone of unknown ability is two different things!

 

x2 look for a wreck then you have everything air box to exhaust. Ford sells reman. for $4100.
http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/Ca...WLK+LH7viyyDAr