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94 van e350 351w. Strange forum to post in, maybe. Any help or direction is appreciated. Replaced fuel pump 2mos ago. Experiencing problems again. No spark or fuel. Only getting about 5.5 volts at the pump and it will not run. The fuel pump will however run with battery voltage applied. The new pump we got under warranty acts in the same way. Put it in tank and will not run unless battery voltage is applied. Batt. voltage is 12.48. Resistance from connector to negative batt terminal is 0.04 M ohms. Is this just a bad ground problem that I need to search for or is it more complicated such as a PCM problem?
sounds electrical...could be a failed relay, fuse, or fusible link...start at the pump and work your way forward. (since the pump is new...did you test the old one...to rule out everything forward?)
From the wiring diagram it appears the ground does come through the connector rather than relying on the mounting of the fuel tank. To confirm if this is a power or ground issue, use a meter to measure voltage using a known good ground as reference, then using a known good power source. If the voltage to the pump is battery voltage when using a known good ground but is low when using a known good positive source, then the problem is in the ground circuit.
You do know that the PCM will only energize the fuel pump for about a second when first turning the key to Run, correct?
The voltage at the pump connector is a steady 5.5 volts with the key on. THat is using a good ground via a wire to the negative battery terminal. THe new pump will run with as little as 1.5 volts applied out of the vehicle. As far as the old pump I did not bother to test it because of my past experience with my 96 Explorer. The 96 Ex. pump did not work in the the vehicle, but when I hooked it direct to the battery it worked. I did install a new pump and it has worked fine. I know a little about auto electrical systems, but my experience is limited. I think that maybe the old pump may have become stuck and that either moving it around had loosened something or the straight shot of voltage was enough to unstick it. I should have tried the old van pump,though, just to see. Could A bad Pcm cause this problem? The situation does not make sense to me so i wonder if I am testing something improperly. I do not have the manual that was supposed to be with the vehicle so I do not know which relay is for the pump. I hear a couple clicks but cannot confirm what they are for.
For your 1994 van, the PCM would not impact the voltage to the pump other than On or Off. Just to be clear, you are making this measurement immediately after turning the key to the Run position, correct? What does the voltage read 5 seconds after the key is turned to Run?
If you would like the wiring diagram for the fuel pump system, send me a Private Message with a meaningful subject and an e-mail address that can accept PDF attachments.
I have been working on a 90 e350 and what I have found out that no body seems to say any thing about and its the voltage to you fuel pumps. If you have a volt meter or even a test light and have someone cut on the ignition you will see 12v or more for a few sec and then back to the low voltage. But if you start it up and test it then you should see the same voltage at the connection to the pump or the relay under the hood and it should read the same as what you read when checking the battery. Looks like they take the 12 volts to start with to get the pressure up and then cut back the voltage so the pump want burn up if you don't start it. Mine was reading just a little under 7 volts. I guess either the computer or the relay controls it?
Now to go find a place to post my problem with mine so we don't get our two problems confused and yours and mine don't really operate the same are do they?
Best of luck to you and a van is a real pain to work on!!!!!!!!!!
I have been working on a 90 e350 and what I have found out that no body seems to say any thing about and its the voltage to you fuel pumps. If you have a volt meter or even a test light and have someone cut on the ignition you will see 12v or more for a few sec and then back to the low voltage.
You apparently didn't read posts 3 and 5 above then.
You apparently didn't read posts 3 and 5 above then.
-Rod
I read it but I explained it diff just in case he didn't understand what was being said. At no time did any one tell hum that he should see the 12v for just a few seconds and then it drops unless it is started up. One person can't do this easy unless he has some long jumper wires so it takes two with one under the van to see what reading is there. Now if you never see the correct voltage than that is another problem I guess?
You can also check the relay and it should do the same on the one wire that feeds back to the pumps. Now that one I could put my volt meter on and set in the van and look over and see the 12 and then see it drop. With my 90 it has a high pressure pump on the rail so you can hear that one. But I think they did away with them by 94 and all is in the tank?
Yep, it appears from the wiring diagram that there is only the pump in the tank, unless the E350 was sold as a cab only in which case the tank setup is different. I would have thought "cab only" would have just bee an F350....
I have a U Haul Box Van. That is the way it was sold to them. Don't want to have to work on it either. It has AC so that is just more thing in your way! But it is a diesel so that helps because there is no computer and other stuff to go wrong but it does have some complicated mess on it.