Looong crank before starting??
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Los Angeles - South Bay
Looong crank before starting??
So I have a 2006 f250 psd....i started to notice that it takes longer cranking than usual before firing up. I have to hold it cranking for 3-4 seconds. Almost seems like iam drain my battery before it fires up. I have read some posts saying it could be the glow plugs? glow plug relay?...its not the batteries because I drove it to auto zone and they tested them and said they were fine. Any help apreciated.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Bradenton, FL
can we get more specs like how many miles, etc.
But it could be your STC fitting, if the STC fitting starts to get loose it'll take it longer to build up oil pressure. Do the long cranks happen more often when the motor is already warm?
But it could be your STC fitting, if the STC fitting starts to get loose it'll take it longer to build up oil pressure. Do the long cranks happen more often when the motor is already warm?
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Senior User
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From: Los Angeles - South Bay
It has 75k miles.. it takes about the same amount of time to crank in the mornings as it does in the evenings...even after I have already been driving it or on hot days it still takes a while cranking...doesn't seem to matter what the conditions are it takes long cranking either way.... does that sound like it can be the STC fitting? Have no idea what that is by the way or where that's located.
Laughing Gas
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From: Oakville, Ontario
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Senior User
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From: Los Angeles - South Bay
How do I check the fuel pressure and the ficm voltage? What is the fcim? Not sure how old the batteries are I bought the truck used but when i went to autozone I had them check the batteries and they said they were good.
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2010
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I'm in the middle of fixing this very same issue with my 2006 F350. I had an O-ring on the dummy plug go out. The dummy plug is on top of the high pressure oil manifold on top of the cylinder head. It was causing an oil loss of oil pressure in high pressure oil system which operates the fuel injectors. If you have a leak, it takes a while cranking to build up pressure in the high pressure system before the engine will start. I would check the FICM (Fuel Injection Control Module which is the silver box on top of the left valve cover) first and make sure it's ok. Then I would do the air pressure check of the high pressure oil system. You'll need to be able to get to the IPR (injection pressure relief) valve to be able to energize it to close it to pressure test the system. As someone mentioned, you could also have a bad STC (snap to connect) fitting which is also in the high pressure oil system. Do a search of the tech folder and you'll find post explaining how to do these tests.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 419
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After repairing the leak in my high pressure oil system, my truck starts better and quicker than it ever has in the year I've owned it. Even sitting overnight not plugged in it will start in less than a second.
Checking for a leak in the high pressure oil system is very easy. Remove the ICP sensor (it's the sensor in the middle of the right valve cover at the front). Pressurize it with air from an air compressor. I used about 75psi with a rubber tipped blow gun. I then had someone turn the key to the on position so it would energize the IPR valve which is under the turbo. If you don't energize that valve, it will be in the open position and allow the air to escape out of the high pressure oil system. The valve will only stay closed for a minute or so once you turn the key on. With the valve closed, pressurize the high pressure oil system with the air. If you hear any leaks, you know something is wrong.
In my case, the dummy plug on the right head had an O-ring out. I replaced the dummy plugs and standpipes in both heads. All you need to remove is both valve covers to do this along with a couple of items above the valve covers. It cost me about $150 in parts.
Checking for a leak in the high pressure oil system is very easy. Remove the ICP sensor (it's the sensor in the middle of the right valve cover at the front). Pressurize it with air from an air compressor. I used about 75psi with a rubber tipped blow gun. I then had someone turn the key to the on position so it would energize the IPR valve which is under the turbo. If you don't energize that valve, it will be in the open position and allow the air to escape out of the high pressure oil system. The valve will only stay closed for a minute or so once you turn the key on. With the valve closed, pressurize the high pressure oil system with the air. If you hear any leaks, you know something is wrong.
In my case, the dummy plug on the right head had an O-ring out. I replaced the dummy plugs and standpipes in both heads. All you need to remove is both valve covers to do this along with a couple of items above the valve covers. It cost me about $150 in parts.
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Senior User
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From: Los Angeles - South Bay
Ok so what your saying is once I remove the icp sensor to turn to key to on position and once its in the on position to blow 75psi into it? Or do I blow air into while some turns the key at the same time as I am blowing air?
Am I going to crank the truck for this test or just turn the key to on position before the crank?
Thanks, still haven't tried any of the methods above. Havmt had much time.
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Am I going to crank the truck for this test or just turn the key to on position before the crank?
Thanks, still haven't tried any of the methods above. Havmt had much time.
_
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2010
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DO NOT CRANK THE ENGINE while putting air in through the ICP sensor port. The high pressure oil (HPO) system runs somewhere north of 500 psi and you'll get a face full of oil. Just pressurize the HPO system and listen. After a few seconds you'll hear air escaping somewhere inside the engine. Have someone turn the key to the on position, but not cranking the motor. You should hear the air stop escaping and feel the pressure building. If not, you have a leak. Possibly a bad IPR, dummy plug O-ring, bad standpipe O-ring, STC (snap to connect), just to name a few. In my case, it was a dummy plug O-ring. I'm told that's very common. For someone that's never worked a diesel, I found it a very easy to diagnose (thanks to this forum) and repair. Hopefully that's your issue and not something worse.
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Hermiston Oregon
Mine is in the shop right now with bad dummy plug o-rings and stc fitting and to have them fix it is about $1300. Kinda disheartening after buying it two weeks ago today, and driving it about 1000 miles. I bought it from a "Reputable" Ford dealer too. Question, should a certified Ford Diesel Mechanic be able to listen to the cranking time and say "maybe that is the HPOP system and we should look at it before we sell it to someone !"