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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 07:31 PM
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Fuel pump

Do mechanical fuel pumps get weak or do they either just work and when they go bad they start leaking gas out the peep holelike a water pump?Why is the typing on this web site screwed up?
 
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 04:39 PM
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Mechanical pumps can fail all sorts of ways. Why do you ask?
 
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 06:03 PM
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I have a hesitation off idle. I keep bumping the timing up and it seems to get better. Just change cam, intake, and carb. I have been chasing problems for a month. I believe with enough trial and error i will get it whipped. This project has been a pain.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 07:09 PM
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How many miles on the engine or timing chain set? Do you know if the timing set is not stretched?
 
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 07:58 PM
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YouTube - M2U00232

Make sure your timing chain doesn't look like this one.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 08:26 PM
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That's bad, but it's worse when the plastic teeth on the cam gear are gone.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 08:54 PM
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That's about what mine looked like when it slipped at 114,000 miles. Mine was so loose I was able to take the chain off the sprocket by hand without any tools or even removing the sprockets it was bad to say the least. Odd thing is I have a similar miss, but only at cruising speed. Doesn't do it at idle or when I'm accelerating. I adjusted the point gap and dwell back to specs and it solved the problem, but only for a couple weeks then it started doing it again.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 10:40 PM
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Mine lost almost all of the plastic teeth and would not hold a steady speed. After deciding that it must be the fuel pump I started changing it and found some pieces of plastic teeth in the hole for the fuel pump. I then took the front cover off and found that the cam gear was in pretty bad shape. This was on my GT500 KR with about 60,000 on the clock.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by rdweathers
I have a hesitation off idle. I keep bumping the timing up and it seems to get better. Just change cam, intake, and carb. I have been chasing problems for a month. I believe with enough trial and error i will get it whipped. This project has been a pain.
I found I had to advance my timing quite a bit to get rid of a hesitation once I had changed cam, intake, carbs, etc.

The trick here is to make internal distributor adjustments to make sure the max advance does not go up when you increase initial timing by rotating the distributor.

For example, I started out with 12deg initial, and 38deg max advance. To get rid of the hesitation, I wound up with 20 deg initial, but kept the max set to 38 degrees (34 to 36 degrees might be safer with a heavy vehicle).

Although perhaps I could have gotten rid of the hesitation through carb adjustments (and I did try a lot of fiddling with accelerator pump cams and idle mixture), nothing I tried worked except to advance the timing.

Probably gone now, but there was a Barry Grant web page that had recommendations for intial timing based on different cams. I think mine fitted into 16-18 degrees initial, but 20 seemed better during trial runs.

And "yes", it was a pain to get sorted out.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by jchamp429
That's about what mine looked like when it slipped at 114,000 miles. Mine was so loose I was able to take the chain off the sprocket by hand without any tools or even removing the sprockets it was bad to say the least. Odd thing is I have a similar miss, but only at cruising speed. Doesn't do it at idle or when I'm accelerating. I adjusted the point gap and dwell back to specs and it solved the problem, but only for a couple weeks then it started doing it again.
Off-topic, but that sounds like the top bushing of your distributor is worn out.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 10:05 AM
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I have new timing gears and chain. I have the timing set to 22 and the problem is gone. I remember now from years ago i was told to set the timing by fill and the way it runs forget about the timing marks when modifying engine away from stock.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by rdweathers
I have new timing gears and chain. I have the timing set to 22 and the problem is gone. I remember now from years ago i was told to set the timing by fill and the way it runs forget about the timing marks when modifying engine away from stock.
You are always better off knowing exactly where your timing is set as inaudible detonation (spark knock) can occur and waste your engine. You would be amazed at how fast you can burn a hole in a piston or take out the edge of the piston down to the top ring.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by rdweathers
I have new timing gears and chain. I have the timing set to 22 and the problem is gone. I remember now from years ago i was told to set the timing by fill and the way it runs forget about the timing marks when modifying engine away from stock.
Yeah thats generally true, But keep in mind if your driving it on the street and not competing you do not want to push your luck as much as if you were racing. I had always heard the general rule was after you find your point of detonation back it off 3-5 deg just to be safe.

On another note, are you sure your timing marks are right and it hasn't slipped?
 
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Old Apr 10, 2011 | 09:20 PM
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Keep setting your timing by ear. Experience can be a Mean Mother. Inaudible spark knock means you can't hear it. That's when Mean Mother Experience starts teaching you.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by jchamp429
That's about what mine looked like when it slipped at 114,000 miles. Mine was so loose I was able to take the chain off the sprocket by hand without any tools or even removing the sprockets it was bad to say the least. Odd thing is I have a similar miss, but only at cruising speed. Doesn't do it at idle or when I'm accelerating. I adjusted the point gap and dwell back to specs and it solved the problem, but only for a couple weeks then it started doing it again.
Install a Pertronix module, about 80 bucks, and never have to set dwell again or worry about the upper bushing.
 
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