I have to replace my alignment bushings and would like some info on how to pop the ball joints to ge the knuckle out so I can replace the bushing with the right one. Will a pickle fork do it? Should I hit the top or bottom one with the fork or both? Can I replace the bushing without removing the knuckle?

 

Are you replacing the ball joints too ?...

 

ive never had good luck with pickle forks on these trucks.. smack the axel itself where the shank for the ball joint slips threw on the out side on both ball joints. watch out though, they tend to drop pretty quick! LOL

 

The ball joints seem to be fine but my camber is out one degee on both sides. The outer edge of my tires is wearing fast.

 

By the time you get everything apart , you very well may need ball joints ...

The 2 hammer trick is your best bet to try & save them ...The problem is you have to do the upper & lower at the same time ...Unless one is not a taper ...The camber sleeve needs to be installed correctly too . There is a specific procedure (& tool ) for that too ...

 

Are you sure it s not a toe problem ?...

 

2 hammer trick???

 

yeah good luck getting that sucker out, i got mine out by luck, i was smashing the old bjoints out because they were junk and out came that little guy.

 

2 hammers . One large one ,one smaller one . Put the larger one on one side of the knuckle , out side of the ball joint, hit the opposite side with a smaller hammer . the taper helps to pop the joint out ...

 

Yea you cans see the top of the tires are out further out than the bottoms. I have 38 inch tires so it really shows. And I put a angle finder on the rotors and it showed 1* off.

 

Yea Really?! Can you give me more info on this. It looks like it is split on one side with a a flat spot so it is not rotated. Cant seem to find much on all of this. Just finding the bushings online was not all that easy.

 

I'll see if I can find it & post it ...

 

You are right on the bushing , I was thinking about the older style . Is yours 2 w or 4 WD .? ..

 

Here's the 2WD text (from the '96 service data):

Wheel Spindle, F-150, F-250, F-350


Removal

1. Raise the front of the vehicle and install safety stands.

2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. Refer to «Section 04-04».

3. Remove the disc brake caliper (2B120) from the rotor and wire it out of the way. Refer to «Section 06-03».

4. Remove the dust cap, cotter pin, nut retainer, nut, washer and front wheel bearing (1216).

5. Remove the rotor from the front wheel spindle (3105).

6. Remove bearing cone and roller (1201) and wheel hub grease seal (1190). Discard the seal.

7. Remove front disc brake rotor shield (2K004). Refer to «Section 06-03».

8. Disconnect the steering linkage from the integral front wheel spindle and spindle arm by removing the cotter pin and nut and then removing the front wheel spindle tie rod from the spindle arm with Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D or equivalent.

9. Remove the cotter pin and castellated nut from the lower ball joint stud.

10. Remove the nut from the axle clamp bolt and remove the bolt from the axle.

11. Remove the camber adjuster from the upper ball joint stud and axle beam. If required, use Ball Joint Removing Tool D81T-3010-B or equivalent to remove adjuster.

12. CAUTION: Do not use a pickle fork to separate the ball joint from the axle as this will damage the seal and the ball joint socket.

Strike the inside area of the axle as shown to pop lower ball joints loose from the axle beam.

13. Remove the front wheel spindle and ball joint from the axle.

The "Strike Here" description is the outer end of the lower Ball Joint mounting ear on the axle. The upper Joint has a straight (not tapered) stud.

 

4 WD. I put a D60 up front last summer. Not a kingpin d60. I has the ball joints.